unsubstantiated

Also applicable to iPhone 4C (iPhone 4 CDMA). Stuffe answers this on Ask Different. "This setting seems to have been removed. Prior to 7.1 it was in: Settings > General > Passcode > Voice Dial > OFF Since 7.1 things have moved around a bit in settings, and the equivalent area would now be: Settings > Passcode … only the option is absent. Hopefully it will be returned, as my sticky home buttoned iPhone 4 is also occasionally dialling nonsense for me. So, to summarise, there seems to be no way to turn it off for iOS 7.1 on a non jailbroken iPhone." http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions...-voice-control-on-iphone-4s-ios7-1/127372#127372

No. Apple created a different formfactor for A1708 (2016 2017). It is very different from their previous (since 2013) PCIe flashdisc formfactor.

Pretend auxiliary video input is a channel lower than 2 and higher than 99 or 125. So use channel up/down/+/- buttons. If you keep stepping in either direction, eventually you should reach an imaginary channel named something like: AUX, LINE, VIDEO, EXT. To help you remember, think of it as “video line one” which is found next to “antenna channel 2”. I used one Panasonic television set which behaved like this: non-rf video sources were treated like a channel to which to tune, and incrementing past them rolled over to tuner channel 2.

What is wrong? If MagSafe power supply is identified as null and zero, then MacBook embedded controller does not allow charging of main battery. Open 'System Information.app', view 'Power' (subpage of 'Hardware'), look under heading 'AC Charger Information:'. For an idea of what 'AC Charger Information:' looks like, a clue as to what to look for, here is a screenshot. Pictured is a full 'Power' report; near bottom is 'AC Charger Information:'. Does your Mac report information from its power adapter, or does it display all fields as zeros? If your subject power adapter is misidentified, then it might need cleaning or repair. Inspect MagSafe plug pogo pins. If middle pogo pin is dirty or sticky, then clean it or exercise it until it operates as it should. Inspect also MagSafe socket-inlet. If middle pogo pin (in MagSafe tip) is clean and springy, and middle land (in MagSafe inlet) is clean, then MagSafe plug is at fault. How to fix it? Get a replacement MagSafe plug or cable assembly, and splice it on. If...

No, it is wrong to assume something is wrong, comparing its standby potential against a MagSafe 1 power supply. If you did measure before, then you could compare after. That wire from China is not at fault. Standby output of Apple's MagSafe Power Adapters varies between models.

What you describe seems, some overload protection is tripping. Removing and reconnecting power supply to its load (MacBook) is needless, because power supply remains in tripped / shutdown state. Substituting AC connection ("duck head" or cord) is needless, because form of AC connection is not important. 'I installed a replacement wire instead of keeping the old one.' Do you know, what kind of replacement? What specific type of MagSafe tip/plug? If your plug identifies as 60W or 85W, then it is no wonder that your 45W supply is overloaded. You can use 'System Information.app' (or 'System Profiler.app') to find your plug's identity. Open 'System Information.app', view 'Power' (subpage of 'Hardware'), look under heading 'AC Charger Information:'. What 'Wattage (W)' is reported? Addition 2018-03-03: For an idea of what 'AC Charger Information:' looks like, a clue as to what to look for, you can look at this screenshot hosted on Apple Support Communities. Pictured is a full 'Power' report section; near bottom...

Very unfortunately, Dylan, your 'good screen' is probably bad. Exactly what you observe (no display and repeating chime) indicates a broken or missing screen. You have my sympathy: replacing iPhone 4 front/screen assembly is onerous. Too I broke an otherwise operational screen, by bending its cable. See Wiki page: iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration.

Like EKWF said (#comment229709), a Logitech mm50 battery contains a single 18650 cell. Its battery cell is soldered to a protection circuitboard, and surrounded by insulator skin (heat shrink tube). Its battery protection board connects to mainboard through three wires: black (battery negative), red (battery positive), and white (NTC thermistor between black and white, if I recall correctly, but check yours to be sure). As simply one cell comprises its battery, it can be re-celled fairly easily. This battery is discussed in some detail, with pictures, on iLounge. (Topic: Logitech mm50 & Pure Fi anywhere batteries) Logitech mm50 has an inlet for an external power supply. Its power plug is a coaxial barrel, outer diameter 3.5 mm, inner diameter 1.1 mm (approximate), insertion depth 8 mm. (You might scavenge a perfect replacement barrel plug from Nokia equipment.) Its original power supply is nominal 12 VDC, 1.5 A, centre positive. If you are looking to make a replacement power supply (repurpose an AC adapter...

Yes, but, it seems to me, Apple's MagSafe 2 Power Adapters are more discriminating (than Apple's MagSafe "1" Power Adapters) of when to switch-on their output. Aftermarket and counterfeit power supplies which are "always on" (always supplying "running" output potential, rather than a very low potential (to prevent sparking) during no-load state) will work. MagSafe 2 uses same ID data structure as MagSafe 1, so older MacBooks can recognise and accept MagSafe 2 power supplies. I made a MagSafe 2 to MagSafe 1 converter. It works. Another idea is to grind a MagSafe bit, to make it match the intersection of MagSafe bit shapes 1 and 2, which I attempted: I ground a MagSafe 2 bit to turn it into a MagSafe Intersection bit. To test, I tried to use it with a MacBookPro7,1 (13-inch, Mid 2010) and with a MacBookPro6,1 (17-inch, Mid-2010). (If I had access to other MacBooks which have MagSafe 1 inlet, then I would have liked to try it with them.) My 60W A1435 Power Adapter works with both MacBookPro6,1 and...

From your description, I guess you have a defective replacement MagSafe connector. In a proper working MagSafe connector, indicator lights are OFF while not connected to MacBook.

Any success stories with MagSafe 2 with metal housing?

I once tried. I think MagSafe 2 tips seem impenetrable, indestructible, non-repairable. I vow to never buy a MagSafe 2 power supply. "MagSafe 1" is: repairable, more compatible, and so more useful than MagSafe 2.

We tried soldering the powercord of the adapter directly to the [laptop’s] board

…

So we soldered ground to 1 and the positive to 4, but it seems not to be charging this way.

Should pin 3 be connected as well ?

Yes. If MagSafe power supply is identified as null and zero, then MacBook embedded controller does not allow charging of main battery.

similar problem, reference: Re: MagSafe 2 is not charging, but keeps the power

similar problem, reference: Re: "Battery is not charging" and no light

(maybe the charger-side connector has some circuitry build in to control the charging process ?)

The MagSafe outlet connector has circuitry built-in, it does exactly two things: it identifies itself and controls status indicator lamps. Charging process is controlled by the 'Power Management Unit' (PMU) circuitry internal to MacBook.

For my subject oven (KitchenAid KEBS107), I need part number 4452223, description 'Thermostat (TOD) (Temp.) SPST'. Alone, I spent approximately one hour, snapping pictures and replacing subject part. Although my pictures are mediocre, the photography took more effort than the repair. So required time (for my single oven) is less than half of one hour. For a double oven, or for small- or weak-bodied owners, this might be a longer job for a two-person team.

These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.

These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.

Please remove your screen first, before replacing power button or sensor cable. I advise you to not dare attempt to remove those Step 25 screws (power button cable bracket ) while screen is mounted.

It is too risky! Display's ribbon cable interferes with driver access to these screws. While driving these screws, I unknowingly broke my display cable. It is actually a delicate circuit, not just a simple flexible ribbon. If I knew just how delicate is display cable, then I would not have ventured to perform this replacement. (In my case, only proximity sensor was not working; power and and ambient light sensor were both functioning. In my case, it was not worth breaking a pricy screen for sake of a cheap sensor.)

With a broken screen cable, iPhone endlessly repeats a diagnostic sound or vibration.

iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration

Don't do it! I advise you to not dare attempt to remove those screws, while screen is mounted. It is too risky! Display's ribbon cable interferes with driver access to these screws. While driving these screws, I unknowingly broke my display cable. It is actually a delicate circuit, not just a simple flexible ribbon. If I knew just how delicate is display cable, then I would not have ventured to perform this replacement. (In my case, only proximity sensor was not working; power and and ambient light sensor were both functioning. In my case, it was not worth breaking a pricy screen for sake of a cheap sensor.)

With a broken screen cable, iPhone endlessly repeats a diagnostic sound or vibration.

iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration

This is a great guide. I figured out for myself, how to open iPod connector, but I could have saved some struggle if I had followed this guide.

Wire assignments in piece pictured: yellow is +12 volt, brown is 0 volt, green+white wire is output signal.

That is a metal retainer cage around (behind) Front Facing Camera. It fastens as a clip with three "claws" (or another descriptive word, "fingers").

See: iPhone 4 Verizon Front Facing Camera Replacement