iPhone 11 Rear-Facing Cameras Replacement
Inleiding
Ga naar stap 1Use this guide to remove and replace the rear cameras in the iPhone 11. The rear camera assembly consists of one wide-angle module and one ultra-wide angle module. Both are replaced together, as a single unit.
Note: This guide instructs you to completely detach the display cables and remove the display assembly in order to better access the rear cameras—however, it's possible to remove and replace the rear cameras with the display cables still connected. Advanced readers may skip disconnecting the display in order to save time, as long as the display is properly supported and the display cables are not damaged.
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Onderdelen
Gereedschap
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
Any suggestions if the screen is broken and the anti-clamp just separates the screen from the bezel?
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.
I have the same question
After heating (I used a hair dryer for 4-5 mins, moving around whole frame, to make sure was pretty hot, then let sit for 1 minute), insert a razor blade between the bezel and the frame, at the bottom edge. Lever upwards, the screen will easily pull away. You won’t even need the suction cup.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?
Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.
Tonynox -
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
I got to this point thinking/hoping I could eek by with a Y1 orY0 or even a PH000 driver but no such luck. The Y000 is in fact necessary. Finishing this repair will have to wait for now.
ALSO thanks Apple, there is ABSOLUTELY no reason AT. ALL. to use so many random, oddball screw heads, BUT to make self repairs more difficult and expensive. A real F-U to the consumer!
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.
Pay attention.
내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?
Hast Du das Problem gelöst?
커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.
Hampter -
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
There needs to be an extra step between 24 and 25 for reassembly, telling folks to apply adhesive here. I got the thing almost all the way put back together before realizing that the adhesive was a single piece that needs the cables to be disconnected in order to apply it.
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Remove the display assembly.
After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)
Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.
You are both correct. Testing the screen before putting on adhesive means the screen can be returned if faulty. Many places will not accept a screen return that has adhesive on it.
So if it works apply adhesive at this point. When testing don’t just rely on Apple logo test touch functionality also .
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the rear camera cover:
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One 1.4 mm screw
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One 1.3 mm screw
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Lift the camera cover from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
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Insert the point of a spudger at the bottom right corner of the camera, between the camera assembly and the iPhone's frame.
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Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
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5 opmerkingen
i cannot use dark mode on the replacement camera now. it should work shouldn't it?
بسیار عالی بود.
من برای تعمیرات لوازم مرتبط با موبایل به این سایت مراجعه می کنم و برای تعمیرات لباسشویی در مشهد به سایت مشهدتعمیر
هر دو عالی هستند
When I try to use my rear camera now, its black, and I cannot use 0.5x. What could be the problem?
Hi. hope I'm not left out. You need to change your rear camera. Happened to me once. Rear camera just black . After replace it, its fine now
Nard In -
the right screws wouldn’t come off
Yusef San Inocencio - Antwoord
ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!
Aisa Jawara -
Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!
danielaguirre93 - Antwoord
You can try this.
Quickly Press and release the volume up button.
then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.
then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.
worked for me :D
Benóný Egilson - Antwoord
Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?
Brian Baker - Antwoord
not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws
Aisa Jawara - Antwoord
how do you change battery of an iPhone 11 and still the battery health shows, do you use a software for that?
Great Me - Antwoord
Battery health won’t show on a non Apple battery.
DON’T forget to discharge old battery before removing it. Very impressive fire (and smoke!) if you puncture it. Ask me how I know
Doug Harrowing - Antwoord