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Follow this guide to replace a faulty motherboard in the Nintendo Switch game console.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

Note: There are two different models for the Nintendo Switch (model HAC-001, released in 2017, and model HAC-001(-01), released in 2019). Make sure your replacement motherboard is compatible with your specific Switch console.

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.
    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Antwoord

  3. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • If you don't have a JIS screwdriver, you can use a Phillips in a pinch. Be very careful, as a Phillips driver can easily cam out and strip the screwhead.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Antwoord

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Antwoord

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Antwoord

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Antwoord

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Antwoord

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee - Antwoord

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre - Antwoord

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Antwoord

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Antwoord

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Antwoord

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Antwoord

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Antwoord

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Antwoord

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Antwoord

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Antwoord

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - Antwoord

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links - Antwoord

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson - Antwoord

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical - Antwoord

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David - Antwoord

    I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

    Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - Antwoord

    Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

    cravenkeo khamone - Antwoord

    Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

    Elia Veschi - Antwoord

    Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

    Robert Morvai - Antwoord

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

    Draque Thompson - Antwoord

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Antwoord

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Antwoord

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Antwoord

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Antwoord

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Antwoord

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  14. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

    spudger technique is perfect.

    Jaxon Lee - Antwoord

  15. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Antwoord

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Antwoord

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Antwoord

    They may sell it in the ifixit store.

    Joshua Graham -

    (1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

    (2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

    Travis - Antwoord

    UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

    1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

    2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

    Good luck!

    Travis -

    you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

    just clean it afterwards

    Richard Aguirre -

    i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

    Richard Aguirre - Antwoord

  16. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  17. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

    Nick Wagner - Antwoord

    It was not clear form the picture, but you need to pull sideways out toward the edge of the Switch where the JoyCon attaches, not up away from the motherboard.

    Benjamin Fritz - Antwoord

    Thanks for the feedback! I’ll adjust the wording to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

  18. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

  19. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

  20. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

  22. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  23. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  24. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

  25. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  26. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  27. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  28. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  29. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  30. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.

  31. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  32. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  33. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  34. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  35. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  36. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.

  37. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  38. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws:

    • Four 2.5 mm screws

    • Two 3.1 mm screws

  39. Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.
    • Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.

    • Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

Conclusie

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

48 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Craig Lloyd

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11 Opmerkingen

Great guide! Thank you. Just one problem: Where the !&&* can I buy a replacement?

Rob - Antwoord

You can buy one on the ifixit parts store or you can find a used one on eBay.

HeyJacksonY -

What’s the name of the grey compound you insert on the cooper section on the motherboard? I’ve been wondering what that stuff is.

Steven Peck - Antwoord

That is thermal compound or commonly known as thermal paste. It improves performance of parts by bridging the gaps between the CPU and heat pipes.

HeyJacksonY -

If you get a used motherboard is there any issues with login credentials? I assume the system memory and everything is located on this motherboard?

nrb_o_21 - Antwoord

It depends if it was formatted or not, i guess.

Daniele Carminati -

Yes, the credentials is on the internal storage of the motherboard, Usually, the seller will remove accounts, or do a system restore, before selling it. If you ever come across an issue where it has a parental control pin (which prevents a system restore), there’s a parental controls pin reset option on Nintendo’s website. If you pay them 50 cents, and provide the serial number and confirmation or inquiry number of the used board (or system), they will give you a master key that you’ll need to remove the parental control, so you can do the factory reset.

bluemetal04 -

if I buy a new motherboard will all my data of the switch be gone? Like pictures game progress and such?

Anderson Ureña - Antwoord

Yes, since the storage and memory are a part of the motherboard. Be sure to back up your game data, screenshots, etc. before attempting any repairs.

Craig Lloyd -

Finished this about a month ago, took me about 2 hours. This guide was essential to my doing it, the details here are impeccable. The comments that followed each step were extremely helpful. So far so good, the renewed device is working flawlessly to this day. Can't thank you enough, saved me close to $200 in labor alone, plus the battery which I found for about $180. Half price is a great deal!

While currently out of stock here, I suggest Amazon or Ebay, the latter will be the greater risk of getting something that is unusable, but is notably cheaper than Amazon (both offer used parts only, not new; naturally, there will be no new parts for this model. I got mine from Ebay, and it worked out just fine. Protect yourself from bad actors hawking junk, and always contact the seller before forking over any of your own funds! Check if they accept returns, too, since many don't and then you're S.O.L., which is far from LOL

Can anyone inform me how to add my success with this guide to the stats displayed below?

James Kalivoda - Antwoord

Congrats on your repair! If you haven’t yet, click the “Give the author +30 points” in the conclusion section, and it will mark you as completing the procedure.

Arthur Shi -

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