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Inleiding

Follow this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly, which includes the lower microphones, antenna converter cable, and Lightning connector.

  1. Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

    jklue - Antwoord

    If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

    Arthur Shi -

  2. Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone. The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM card tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM card tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

  3. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Antwoord

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica - Antwoord

  4. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Antwoord

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Antwoord

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Antwoord

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Antwoord

  5. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Antwoord

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Antwoord

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Antwoord

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Antwoord

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Antwoord

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Antwoord

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Antwoord

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Antwoord

  7. Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  8. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  9. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  11. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  12. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Antwoord

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Antwoord

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Antwoord

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Antwoord

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Antwoord

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Antwoord

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Antwoord

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Antwoord

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Antwoord

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D - Antwoord

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board. Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Antwoord

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Antwoord

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

  14. Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  15. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

  16. Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Antwoord

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Antwoord

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Antwoord

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Antwoord

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Antwoord

  17. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Antwoord

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D - Antwoord

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard - Antwoord

  19. Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
    • Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

    Daryl Maunder - Antwoord

    I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

    William Mitchell - Antwoord

    Hey William!

    We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

    Arthur Shi -

    since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

    Bob McCall - Antwoord

    My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

    Gary Berman - Antwoord

    Hi Gary,

    The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

    Arthur Shi -

  20. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  21. Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
    • Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

  23. Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
    • Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

    Daryl Maunder - Antwoord

    Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

    jgrsf - Antwoord

    I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

    Laura Bernal -

    Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

    dave -

    I agree jgrsf

    Bob McCall - Antwoord

    I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

    Alexandre Deloffre - Antwoord

    I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

    Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

    Bill Shannon - Antwoord

  24. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

  25. Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
    • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

    Charlie - Antwoord

    Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

    It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

    Daryl Maunder - Antwoord

    When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

    Daniel Timothy Case - Antwoord

    Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

    Owen Edwards - Antwoord

    I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

    jackjaggermanjanson - Antwoord

    I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

    johnoconna - Antwoord

  26. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

    Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

    Nic Giannandrea - Antwoord

    Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Hola,

    Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

    Gracias

    Eduardo Moral - Antwoord

    I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

    John Weise - Antwoord

    I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

    John Weise -

    I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

    I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

    Jake Hearle - Antwoord

    Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

    dave -

  27. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

    Daryl Maunder - Antwoord

    My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

    Chris Rainone - Antwoord

    Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

    Nick Cox - Antwoord

    I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

    Arthur Shi -

    On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

    Bill Shannon - Antwoord

    on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

    There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

    You can’t take the engine off yet!!

    Jason Minahan - Antwoord

  28. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  29. Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:
    • Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

  30. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  31. Remove the barometric vent.
    • Remove the barometric vent.

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

  33. Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 3.0 mm standoff screw

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

    Michael Millington - Antwoord

    Hi Michael,

    You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

    Arthur Shi -

    wrong Screws in Picture

    mmiller - Antwoord

    Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

    Nick Cox - Antwoord

  34. Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.
    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

  35. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.

    The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

    Bonrad C - Antwoord

  36. Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

    Chris Rainone - Antwoord

  37. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  38. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.

  39. Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.
    • Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.

    1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

    Boni Zei - Antwoord

  40. Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.
    • Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.

  41. Remove the antenna component.
    • Remove the antenna component.

  42. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

  43. Remove the grounding clip.
    • Remove the grounding clip.

    what happen if don't put this part?

    albert saens - Antwoord

    Hi Albert,

    It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

    Arthur Shi -

    If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

    Josh Brito - Antwoord

  44. Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:
    • Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

    I.T. Service Desk - Antwoord

    this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

    Chris Rainone - Antwoord

    The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

    fotoband - Antwoord

  45. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

  46. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  47. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board.

    Replacement tip - be sure to prepare a U-shaped bend into your new flex cable at this connection prior to installing the adhesive-backed flex cable.

    I did not think of this and as a result when I get to reconnecting this part to the logic board, the flex cable had a lot of spring in it and wanted to rebound and lay flat (as it was shipped.) This step really should emphasize how important it is to get that bend formed into your new flex cable.

    fotoband - Antwoord

  48. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

  49. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  50. Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    During re-assembly, pay close attention to position the logic board under all the cables include the flash cable. The cables can get flattened out once the components are released and easily slip under instead of over where they need to be.

    Irina - Antwoord

  51. Remove the two screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
    • Remove the two screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    I beleive at this step you should illustrate the importance of watching that antenna cable next to the speaker. It can easily ‘pop’ off of its co-ax connector when removing the speaker. Mine did and i was wondering where the extra part came from. And reconnecting it IS A NIGHTMARE!!! If you get it alligned correctly I found a metal bit with the same diameter of the co-ax socket needs to be used to press the connector into place, but it never ‘clicks’ or pops so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off

    dave - Antwoord

  52. Remove the speaker.
    • Remove the speaker.

  53. Remove the three screws securing the Lightning connector cable in place:
    • Remove the three screws securing the Lightning connector cable in place:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.2 mm Phillips screws

  54. Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the phone.
    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the phone.

  55. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the logic-board-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the logic-board-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

  56. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the battery-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the battery-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

  57. Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the phone,  angling it as shown. This will help loosen the flex cable adhesive.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the phone, angling it as shown. This will help loosen the flex cable adhesive.

  58. Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case. Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery). Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.

    • Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery).

    • Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.

    • If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to make it easier to separate.

  59. Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way. Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it. Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

    • Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.

  60. Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.
    • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.

    • Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.

  61. Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case. Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.
    • Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

  62. Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.
    • Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

    • Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.

  63. Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly. Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.
    • Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.

  64. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help clean the surface.
    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help clean the surface.

    • Before removing the adhesive backing, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won't be able to reconnect it to the logic board.

  65. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. Check to see if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the point of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    • Check to see if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the point of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.

    If you need to replace the adhesive patches shouldn’t they be recommended and sold/included?

    fotoband - Antwoord

    Hi fotoband,

    Our replacement part should have the adhesive pre-attached and ready for use.

    Arthur Shi -

    Die Anleitung ist klasse, aber “benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Kabel von der alten Lightning Connector Einheit hochzubebeln und auf die neue zu übertragen” ist mit Abstand der schwierigste Teil der ganzen Angelegenheit. Die ganzen Teile und das Werkzeug alles super, aber dann nehmt 5€ mehr und macht an die Lightning Connector Einheit direkt den Konverter ran. das ist so winzig und fummelig, dass ich an dieser Stelle wahrscheinlich die neue Connector Einheit oder zumindest den Antennenkonverter zerstört habe. Schade

    Billy Bonez - Antwoord

    I don’t understand how to change the antenna converter cable. I can pry it off of the old part just fine but it doesn’t click back to the new part? Do you actually need to solder it together?

    coffings - Antwoord

    The cable has a coaxial connector and can be slightly tricky to click back. Make sure to align it properly and press it down firmly with your fingers.

    Arthur Shi -

    Transferring the antenna connector was by far the trickiest bit of the entire repair for me. Getting it aligned and click back into place took ages, all the time worried I’d damage the fragile coax connector.

    DarrenG - Antwoord

    Ahhh… the antenna convertor cable is a NIGHTMARE to re-connect. You need to get it alligned correctly with a pair of tweezers, then I found a metal bit/rod of the same diameter as the co-ax socket and needs to be used to press the connector into place with a stright downward motion, but it never ‘clicks’ or ‘pops’ into it’s proper seating, so you have to assume its connected when it dosent fall back off of the lightning connector plate. THEN, reconnecting the taptic engine right over top of its connector runs the chance of popping the antenna connector back off again. Its a frustrating battle that you need to be fresh for…not at 1AM

    dave - Antwoord

    Well, I thought this was going pretty well, but I’ve just destroyed my new part and the antenna cable trying to mate them together. Not sure this repair is “moderate” enough for me.

    Sylvain Poitras - Antwoord

    Is this piece (the aforementioned tricky converter cable) the cellular antenna? I’m trying to identify which component actually receives the cellular signals. If it is removed and/or left off, Will this completely disable the cellular connection?

    Alberta I Stein - Antwoord

    This piece looks to convert a coaxial antenna socket into a press connector. If this is removed, whatever antenna this is connected to won’t work.

    Arthur Shi -

Conclusie

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, and follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

72 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Arthur Shi

Lid sinds: 03-01-18

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17 Opmerkingen

I love how you mention the “antenna converter cable” twice but never show what the &&^& that part even looks like??

I only hate Humans. - Antwoord

Sorry about that! It’s actually shown in the 3rd image in the last step. I cropped the photo so that it’s zoomed in more to show it.

Arthur Shi -

I would HIGHLY recommend not attempting this fix. I have done a variety of repairs on iPhones (screens, batteries, etc.) and decided to try this to address a broken microphone. I could make regular phone calls but couldn’t use speakerphone or FaceTime. After replacing the lightening charger using the instructions and the iFixit parts, I still can’t use the speakerphone or FaceTime function. To make matters worse, my phone won’t charge through the lightening connector, won’t wirelessly charge, and people can’t hear me even when I make a regular phone call anymore. In other words, I started with one fairly minor problem and, due to this repair, have a whole bunch of new (much more significant) issues. Don’t make the same mistake I did.

Aaron Nelson - Antwoord

Don’t know about the charging issues, but the reason replacing the microphone didn’t help is because you replaced the wrong microphone.

iPhone 8 has 3 mics.

- One for regular phone calls - which is the one you replaced

- One for the front-facing camera - which is used for the speakerphone and FaceTime and is located near the earpiece

- One for the back-facing camera

Nick Shtangey -

Excelente guía..!!

Jorge Lonjedo - Antwoord

It the port paired to the phone? like Touch ID, or can you just replace it without and issue?

Robinson Shaffer - Antwoord

Hi Robinson,

The port is not paired to the phone.

Arthur Shi -

Phone doesn’t turn on. Is there any other tips??

carl mercado - Antwoord

Hi Carl,

You can try some common troubleshooting tips. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. If not, please browse and post on our Answers forum.

Arthur Shi -

Excellent guide. Took just over 1 hour to complete, phone charges and earphones work again. This is my daughters phone so she is very happy.

David Dunsire - Antwoord

Im having an issue where whenever i attach the lightning cord connector the screen wont turn on but when i detach it the screen will turn on, is there anyway to fix this?

Sara A - Antwoord

Repair completed using this guide and the iFixit kit. Took me quite a bit longer than 2 hours (I spent almost an hour making sure ALL the old glue was off before fitting a new seal!) but with the help of the magnetic project board the job went perfectly and I can now charge my phone again. Speaking of the project board, I would consider this an absolute essential to complete this job. The phone has to be pretty much taken apart and you end up with a multitude of differing length/type screws which are easy to mix up….and it’s not that easy to tell a 1.2mm screw from a 1.3mm screw!

Lacy Kyle - Antwoord

Well, that was a pain in the ass… But it works!:)

Trym Thorén - Antwoord

Does anyone know where I can get the small “antenna converter cable”? Sadly, mine broke and it’s seems to be near impossible to just get the converter cable…I know that the wifi works without it, but I’d rather replace the broken thing…

malteweber - Antwoord

Thank you for putting this together. The Youtube videos are so fast, you really need the pics and instructions. It was greatly appreciated!

Chris Rainone - Antwoord

My charger port still does not work, even after a replacement. ••Sad••

Great Guide though!! Even remembered the teeeeenie tiny antenna. LOL!

Jonathan - Antwoord

Well, this was by far the hardest repair I’ve ever done. (I’m pretty comfortable with these types of repairs and have done 4-5 screen repairs and home button replacements.) It took about 5 hours. (I had a few mishaps where something was reassembled under something else and I had to take it back apart to get it to seat correctly.) I managed to sever the taptic feedback engine ribbon cable and I couldn’t get the antenna back in, but my phone still seems to make and receive calls with decent signal, use WiFi, and use cellular data, so I’m not exactly sure what that does.

So, TL;DR, the phone dropped in water and wouldn’t charge. Now it does charge, but the haptic feedback on the home button doesn’t work, and I’m guessing it won’t have as strong a signal due to the antenna loss. But it was probably worth it for a ~$20 part instead of replacing the phone for ~$200.

Nick Cox - Antwoord

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