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| 1 | Reputatie |
| 9 | Oplossingen |
| 0 | Handleidingen |
| Lid sinds 12-01-14 | |
Zodra ze een reputatiescore hebben bent je in staat om een grafiek te zien van het verloop hiervan.
Hier is een voorbeeld van hoe de grafiek eruitziet:
| Gebeurtenis | Telling | Delta |
|---|---|---|
| Post is positief beoordeeld | 5 | 60 |
| Je post is verwijderd vanwege markeringen | 1 | -100 |
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
looks like #122A gear available on ebay now. Just search “122A gear”
never found a service manual. Fixed 2. Both had split plastic gear on the motor. One had bulging cap on PSU.
I don't think its hair build-up that makes this wheel difficult to come out. Its the ribbed shaft that is designed to grab onto the last gear. They are slightly bigger than the hole on the housing.
I also used 2 flat blade screw driver 180 degrees apart and that pried it off well.
When inserting back in and putting on the first gear. I had to use a lot of force on a couple of wheels. A socket can be used push it back on.
Used an L shape pick tool to get under the last gear, that pull it off pretty easily.
https://flic.kr/p/2m93Uj2
Update on 6/16/2020 post above.
Got 2 of these, Won’t read some/all discs. Both of them had cracked first gear on the drive motor. Its very high torque so the crack allows the gear shaft to slip and controller gets lost.
Fixed 1 of 2 with a brass gear ordered from Aliexpress (5 gear for $3-$4 shipped) You need 0.4M (modulus) 12T (teeth) 5.5 diameter. Hole diameter 1.93mm. Spec is 122A. This gives about 0.02mm clearance between gear and motor shaft.
I had to use a C-Clamp to fit it on. One slip on a little bit with finger pressure and C-Clamp took it rest of the way. This player was fixed. Other one was very tight and C-Clamp pressure appears to have ruined the motor so becareful. Best to find one that fits on a little with finger pressure.
I also messed with tuning laser power before fixing the gear and lost the reference. So had to readjust the laser. Just increased the resistance on both DVD/CD adjustment screws and gradually decreased it and tested against variety of discs until it played all discs.
Progressive scan uses component video (3 color video connection, red/green/blue) have to get the 3 component video cables connected correctly to get progressive scan working correctly and get to the menu entry to turn it off.
I recall getting the 3 component video cables in the right plug was tricky on this DVD. Don’t remember why, try match the colored plugs between DVD+TV. Might swap around until you get it right if color codes don’t work.
Great tutorial. There is a diagram floating around on the web that has the polarity reversed. I did that first and didn’t work before finding this guide and corrected the wiring. Works great now.
Besides a good fine tip soldering iron and at least magnifying goggles, really good flux makes all the difference on this job since everything is so small. I had some clear liquidy flux (Kester 951? don’t recall, bought long ago to help reflow GPU+SOC BGAs) That worked great as heat instantly flowed to all the right places. Necessary with tiny solder points and rework wire.
Looks like have to attempt this. Have done fairly fine soldering before but maybe nothing this small. What size jumper to use? 0.1mm or 0.02mm?
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