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We're just some folks with repair on our minds...
iFixit's in-house team of technical writers and guide...
I’m Arthur—technical writer, teardown engineer, researcher, and photographer at iFixit.
I have the illustrious honor of taking devices apart, identifying components, figuring out how things work, and showing others how to fix stuff. In addition, I perform electrical analysis and research how emergent tech works.
A day at the office: working on Google Pixel 3 guides
I graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo with a master’s degree in electrical engineering, with a focus on control systems and mechatronics. Along the way, I designed high efficiency DC power circuits, grew organic OLED panels in a vacuum, and programmed a small swarm of robots to autonomously navigate and map out a cluttered room. My thesis work involved training neural networks to detect hidden structural faults in commercial buildings using acceleration sensor data. I enjoy both the theoretical and practical hands-on nature of my degree.
Making single pixel OLED panels in vacuum
Much of my time at iFixit is spent instructing people how to fix stuff by writing step-by-step repair guides. So far, I’ve written over 180 guides for devices ranging from Rug Doctors to iPads. As I research, disassemble, and document repair procedures, I’m always learning something new. Working on smartphones necessitated a good understanding of how lithium-ion batteries work; writing Rug Doctor guides taught me how to remove rivets— something I haven’t had to deal with in smartphones…yet.
Installing a rivet onto the Rug Doctor
I am also a member of iFixit’s team of teardown engineers, publishing informative, in-depth reports on the inner workings of newly-released gadgets such as the Magic Leap One and the iPhone XS. These teardowns include chip analysis and explanations for complicated concepts (such as waveguides) in layman’s terms.
Identifying chips for the iPhone XS
I’m curious by nature; I enjoy exploring long-forgotten roads, trying non-mainstream food, and disassembling new smartphones! I like retro, well-designed mechanical machines; I own four typewriters and drive a Suzuki Samurai.
Driving the Sammy on Quatal Canyon road
iPhone 5s Home Button
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Hi Jason,
Unfortunately, you will still need some adhesive in order to reattach the screen to the frame. We currently don’t stock the custom adhesive for the screen, so a pre-cut adhesive card is the next best solution.
Hey rayzor12!
The black covering is one of the layers that protects the display panel. It also helps dissipate heat from the phone through the display. If your display works and the surface facing the battery is relatively smooth, you should be fine.
Hi smikalsen,
Did you disconnect the battery when you swapped the screens? If not, there is a chance that the screen backlight circuits are damaged as a result of disconnecting/reconnecting to a powered phone. With a screen connected and the phone powered on, shine a bright light directly at the screen. If you can faintly see the screen, it means that the LCD is working but the backlight is broken.
Hi Jerri,
I unfortunately don’t. When you press the spray button, does it sound like the pump revs up? If not, it may be a switch problem.
Hi Ruby,
I’m sorry to hear this! From my experience, there has been quite a bit of variation and manufacturing tolerances with the screws Motorola uses, and as a result, T3 works for some and T4 works for others. I can’t tell you much about these screws other than that they are 3.1 mm long.
Hi Joe,
It looks like you have a J3 Express Prime. I can’t confirm if our screen will work with it or not, but the part looks identical; there is a high chance it will be compatible.
The J3 is actually has an AMOLED display panel vs. a LCD. I’ll have to fix that error in the guides. When I worked on the phone, it felt like the panel was not fused to the glass, so you should theoretically be able to replace the glass only. However, it is very easy to accidentally pry too deep and pry up/destroy the OLED panel along with the front glass. Take a look at this step to see where the separation is. Try removing the front glass only, and see if the display still works. If you are able to remove the front glass without damaging the OLED panel, the most economical option is to buy a replacement front glass. If the OLED panel breaks, you’ll have to replace the entire screen (glass and panel).
Hi Troy,
That’s correct! If the old adhesive is old, dirty, or uneven, it may not hold onto the screen sufficiently.
Hi Bob,
It depends on the screen you’re buying. If it is a complete top assembly, I think it is pretty doable. Take a look at our guide and see how comfortable you would be with the procedure.
Hi markstickley!
It sounds like the digitizer within the screen may not have been properly shielded and is shorting against something. Double-check the digitizer connector to make sure it is clean and fully seated. Be sure to disconnect the battery first!
Hi Aaron,
It is indeed terrible feeling when the repair does not go as planned. Does the screen work and light up? I would suggest looking carefully at the two digitizer connectors and their cables shown in this step. Even slight amounts of dirt/grease can cause problems. You may also have a short on the digitizer edge. Look over the perimeter shown in this step and make sure nothing is exposed.
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