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We're just some folks with repair on our minds...
iFixit's in-house team of technical writers and guide...
I’m Arthur—technical writer lead, teardown engineer, researcher, and photographer at iFixit.
I have the illustrious honor of taking devices apart, identifying components, figuring out how things work, and showing others how to fix stuff. In addition, I perform electrical analysis and research how emergent tech works.
A day at the office: working on Google Pixel 3 guides
I graduated from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo with a master’s degree in electrical engineering, with a focus on control systems and mechatronics. Along the way, I designed high efficiency DC power circuits, grew organic OLED panels in a vacuum, and programmed a small swarm of robots to autonomously navigate and map out a cluttered room. My thesis work involved training neural networks to detect hidden structural faults in commercial buildings using acceleration sensor data. I enjoy both the theoretical and practical hands-on nature of my degree.
Making single pixel OLED panels in vacuum
Much of my time at iFixit is spent instructing people how to fix stuff by writing step-by-step repair guides. So far, I’ve written over 180 guides for devices ranging from Rug Doctors to iPads. As I research, disassemble, and document repair procedures, I’m always learning something new. Working on smartphones necessitated a good understanding of how lithium-ion batteries work; writing Rug Doctor guides taught me how to remove rivets— something I haven’t had to deal with in smartphones…yet.
Installing a rivet onto the Rug Doctor
I am also a member of iFixit’s team of teardown engineers, publishing informative, in-depth reports on the inner workings of newly-released gadgets such as the Magic Leap One and the iPhone XS. These teardowns include chip analysis and explanations for complicated concepts (such as waveguides) in layman’s terms.
Identifying chips for the iPhone XS
I’m curious by nature; I enjoy exploring long-forgotten roads, trying non-mainstream food, and disassembling new smartphones! I like retro, well-designed mechanical machines; I own four typewriters and drive a Suzuki Samurai.
Driving the Sammy on Quatal Canyon road
iPhone 5s Home Button
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Hmm…considering that the display connector is secured by a bracket, I think it’s unlikely that a loose connector is the issue. It may be a broken passive component somewhere in the display driver circuitry.
Hi Philip,
Does the screen light up? If it doesn’t, I would suggest disconnecting the battery connector and double-checking the display connector to make sure it is properly seated. As I looked into your question, I noticed that the step was missing a disconnection procedure—so thank you! I’ve amended that step.
Hi Rob,
The display cable may be loose, but it could be something else. Opening up Pixel phones always poses a risk of further damaging the fragile display. Has the phone been water damaged/immersed before?
Hi Edward,
I’m sorry to hear that! My guess would be that a stray screw held the board to the midframe. If your phone had an extra screw that I missed, please notify me and I’ll correct it!
Hi Korneel,
For a battery replacement, you need both P5 and T5 bits/drivers. The P5 is for the rear case, and the T5 is for the battery assembly. If you purchase the battery fix kit directly from iFixit, the kit will come with the needed tools.
Hi Kristian,
Without specialty tools, it would be very difficult to replace the glass without damaging the fragile display panel. The OLED display panel is bonded to the top glass with optically clear adhesive, so you’d need to slice through that without marring the panel. Refurbishment/repair companies use special jigs to accomplish this task.
Some devices use LCD panels that are not bonded to the top glass. In that case, it is easy to replace the glass by itself.
Hi Daniel,
Unfortunately, there is no easy way to ensure water resistance after a repair, as the factory adhesive is applied using specialty tools. I’d suggest sealing it the best you can with adhesive and using a water resistant case.
On the adhesive product page, you can find the adhesive card under the first pull-down menu. The adhesive card does have rounded corners and cutouts for this purpose.
Hi Michael,
The glass back would definitely work without the black paint. In fact, there are tutorials online that instruct exactly how to do that in order to have a cool transparent glass back look!
Hi Bonnie,
Does the camera power up when you plug in the USB cable? If it does, check/clean the battery contacts in the camera. If it doesn’t, there may be a problem with the circuit board.
Hi Kiran,
Does the laptop show any indication that it detects the battery?
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