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Follow this guide to replace the battery on your Microsoft Surface Pro 4.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

There is a significant chance that you may break the unreinforced and fragile display panel during this procedure. Be sure to apply adequate heat and be extremely careful while slicing through the adhesive. Wear safety glasses in case the glass shatters.

Applying new thermal paste during reassembly may improve the performance of your Surface. If you wish to do that, make sure you have new thermal paste and either high-concentration isopropyl alcohol or a specialized thermal paste cleaner.

  1. If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.
    • If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD display.

  2. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  3. Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
    • Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:

    • These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.

    • The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and don't insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

    • Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

  4. Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
    • Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  5. Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout. Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
    • Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

  6. Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
    • Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

    • Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  7. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  8. Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
    • Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

    • Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm) along the bottom edge.

    • Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    Yep. I scratched the corner of the LCD with the pick. Take the warning seriously folks! It’s really easy to do.

    Laurence Mayer - Antwoord

  9. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  10. Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge. Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.
    • Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

    • Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.

    • Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.

    • Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

    • Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  11. Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.

    • The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

    • Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

    • Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

  12. Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge. The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas. The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.
    • Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.

    • The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

  13. Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them. Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel. Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.
    • Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.

    • Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.

    • Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.

    • Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

  14. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive. Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.
    • Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

  15. Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated. Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables. Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.
    • Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.

    • Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.

    • Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

  16. Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors. Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables. Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.
    • Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.

    • Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.

  17. Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair: Use one tip of a pair of angled tweezers to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth." Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.
    • Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair:

    • Use one tip of a pair of angled tweezers to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth."

    • Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.

    • Try not to deform the shields too much—you will need to reinstall them during reassembly.

    • To reinstall, correct any deformations to the best of your ability, make sure the "teeth" align with the rim on the motherboard, and press down on the entire perimeter of the EMI shield.

    • Make sure all "teeth" are snug to the metal rim and not bent underneath the EMI shield.

  18. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors. Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.
    • Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.

  19. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard. Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.
    • Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.

  20. Remove the screen from the Surface.
    • Remove the screen from the Surface.

    • During reassembly, pause here and follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.

  21. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws securing the antenna support bracket.
    • Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws securing the antenna support bracket.

  22. Carefully remove the antenna support bracket. Be careful not to snag any cables. Do not force the bracket out if it is stuck. Be careful not to snag any cables. Do not force the bracket out if it is stuck.
    • Carefully remove the antenna support bracket.

    • Be careful not to snag any cables. Do not force the bracket out if it is stuck.

    I had ripped through 2 of the 3 antennas when cutting through the top adhesive. Not sure how anyone removes this display without ruining at least one of them.

    I saw on Reddit this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportmacg...

    It works perfectly! My wifi was one that was cut. It’s now made of aluminum foil and is pulling down 147Mbps and pushing 80.88Mbps up.

    Joshua Snavely - Antwoord

  23. Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink. Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.
    • Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

    • Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.

    • Take care not to puncture the battery with the tweezers while working on this shield.

  24. Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink. Remove the CPU shield. Remove the CPU shield.
    • Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

    • Remove the CPU shield.

  25. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:
    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:

    • One 2.4 mm screw along the top of the rectangular plate covering the battery

    • One 2.2 mm screw along the bottom of the rectangular plate covering the battery

  26. The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.
    • The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove three 2.4 mm screws securing the fan.

    • Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the final 4.4 mm screw securing in the fan cover.

    These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

    mike_mcquillan - Antwoord

    My Surface Pro 4 has a fan here. Remove the screws around the fan and the whole heatsink including the fan can now be lifted off. DO NOT try and remove the heatsink from the fan as it is glued on.

    Andy - Antwoord

    Sorry I’m super brand new to the game. I don’t know the difference between 1.5mm Torx T4 and 3.0mm Torx T4. I look under tools I need to buy, and the tool kits only say Torx T4 or T5, without the milimeters dimensions.

    MInh Le Nguyen - Antwoord

    Je fais écho au commentaire de vennic, les longueurs indiqués en mm sont les longueurs des vis et n’impactent pas les tournevis à utiliser. Bien ranger les vis par longueur permets de mettre les bonnes vis aux bons endroits lors du remontage de l’appareil.

    Cajuteq -

    MInh Le Nguyen, the mm size refers to the length of the screws, not the size of the bit driver

    vennic - Antwoord

    Don’t forget to unplug the fan (if present) before yanking on the heat sink! It’s just a small grey clasp that needs to be lifted up.

    vennic - Antwoord

    The fan connector on mine was held in place by a white clamp on the side closest to the middle of the chassis. The long edge toward the middle flips up to vertical. That frees up the fan connector. Likewise for the black “wire” connector right beside it.

    David Hill - Antwoord

  27. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.
    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.

    • Screw 1

    • Screw 2

    • Screw 3

    • Screw 4

    • During reassembly, use the same method to install these screws, tightening one turn at a time until each screw is snug.

    These screws were T5 Torx in mine, not T3 as in the instructions.

    Joshua Snavely - Antwoord

    T5 Torx screwdriver is correct.

    Majid Mazouchi - Antwoord

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU. Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU.

    • Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

  29. Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan. The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive. Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan.

    • The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive.

    • Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

  30. Carefully remove the heatsink.
  31. Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the camera connectors. Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the camera connectors.

    • Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

    • Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

    • Remove the EMI shield.

  32. Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard. Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard. Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard.
    • Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard.

  33. Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector securing the volume/power button cable. Gently slide the volume/power button cable out of the ZIF connector. Gently slide the volume/power button cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector securing the volume/power button cable.

    • Gently slide the volume/power button cable out of the ZIF connector.

    While you're here, you'll want to disconnect the ZIF connector directly opposite from this one, which can be seen in the lower right of these photos, nearer the camera cable connection points. The guide doesn't mention removing that cable, but you'll need it removed before you can lift out the motherboard.

    Nick - Antwoord

  34. Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector. Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.

    • Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    • Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.

    • During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

  35. Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors. Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors. Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors.
    • Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors.

  36. Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors. Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors. Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors.
    • Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors.

  37. Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the microSD card reader cable and connector. Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the microSD card reader cable and connector.

    • Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

    • Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

    • Remove the shield.

  38. Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the microSD card reader's connector straight up out of its socket. Lift the microSD card reader cable up and out of the way of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly. Only bend the cable as much as is necessary to access the EMI shield. Do not fold or bend the cable sharply.
    • Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the microSD card reader's connector straight up out of its socket.

    • Lift the microSD card reader cable up and out of the way of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly.

    • Only bend the cable as much as is necessary to access the EMI shield. Do not fold or bend the cable sharply.

    Missing from this step: Need to remove the microSD card reader by removing the two T5 black screws holding it down. Otherwise it blocks the motherboard from being removed. It has been removed in the photos below.

    Laurence Mayer - Antwoord

    It's probably best to remove the microSD card reader at this point. The guide never states to remove it, but it eventually disappears from the photos. Two T5 screws are all that are holding it down. Easier to take those out and remove the assembly than to try to remove the EMI shield underneath while also holding the ribbon cable out of the way.

    Nick - Antwoord

  39. Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly cable connector. Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly cable connector.

    • Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

    • Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

    • Remove the shield.

  40. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining lock securing the charging assembly cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining lock securing the charging assembly cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining lock securing the charging assembly cable connector.

  41. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the connector. Alternating from one side to the other, gently "walk" the connector out of its socket. Alternating from one side to the other, gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the connector.

    • Alternating from one side to the other, gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  42. Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector between the processor and right speaker. Disconnect the cable from the ZIF connector. Disconnect the cable from the ZIF connector.
    • Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector between the processor and right speaker.

    • Disconnect the cable from the ZIF connector.

  43. Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the right speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector. Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the right speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.

    • Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    • Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.

    • During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

  44. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan and motherboard: Ten 2.4 mm screws
    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan and motherboard:

    • Ten 2.4 mm screws

    • Two 2.2 mm screws

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    • Two 2.4 mm screws

    • Use a T5 Torx Screwdriver to remove one 4.2 mm screw securing the right speaker and motherboard.

    Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove screw in left and right speaker.

    Fredrik Strange - Antwoord

    BE CAREFUL! Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove an ADDITIONAL screw on the top corner of the right speaker. It should not take a tremendous amount of force to remove the speaker.

    John Ryan - Antwoord

    This screw is in the frame of the SP4. Mine was a T3.

    Rashad Parker -

  45. Grip the narrow section of the right speaker box and lift it up slightly. Slide the right speaker back out of the chassis. Remove the right speaker.
    • Grip the narrow section of the right speaker box and lift it up slightly.

    • Slide the right speaker back out of the chassis.

    • Remove the right speaker.

    I didn’t read about the other T5 (about 6 mm) holding down the right speaker. It needs to be removed prior to this step.

    Laurence Mayer - Antwoord

    You also need to remove a screw in the top right corner of the speaker

    Daniel Bergstorm - Antwoord

  46. Remove the motherboard by first lifting the left side until it is at roughly a 30 degree angle. Gently slide the I/O ports on the motherboard out from their openings and remove the motherboard. During reassembly, make sure the charging assembly, left speaker, and three camera cables are not trapped under the motherboard before you proceed.
    • Remove the motherboard by first lifting the left side until it is at roughly a 30 degree angle.

    • Gently slide the I/O ports on the motherboard out from their openings and remove the motherboard.

    • During reassembly, make sure the charging assembly, left speaker, and three camera cables are not trapped under the motherboard before you proceed.

  47. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the battery connector for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the connector to the case.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the battery connector for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the connector to the case.

    • Try not to let the iOpener rest against the battery.

    In previous steps an hairdryer, heat gun or hotplate were possible tools to attack the adhesive. Hotplate is a bit difficult here but what about the others? Can you use them here or is the iOpener the only option?

    Ing Lim - Antwoord

  48. Starting at the edge furthest from the battery, slide an opening pick under the battery connector to separate the adhesive underneath. Make sure the battery connector is completely free from the case. Make sure the battery connector is completely free from the case.
    • Starting at the edge furthest from the battery, slide an opening pick under the battery connector to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Make sure the battery connector is completely free from the case.

  49. Prop the top edge of the Surface up a couple inches so the whole Surface slopes towards the bottom edge. Drip adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the top edge of the battery. If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.
    • Prop the top edge of the Surface up a couple inches so the whole Surface slopes towards the bottom edge.

    • Drip adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the top edge of the battery.

    • If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.

    • Let the solvent sit and soak into the adhesive for 2-3 minutes before continuing.

    Probably obvious to all except dolts like me… After soaking the batter in the solvent, set it flat again on the work surface before using the card to start working on the adhesive… I impatiently starting hacking on the adhesive while the Surface was still propped up… and promptly put a bend in the previously flat metal backplate.

    Laurence Mayer - Antwoord

  50. Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tools—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event. Slide a plastic card under the left side of the top edge of the battery. If you encounter significant resistance  at any point during this procedure, stop, apply a little more adhesive remover, and wait for it to soak in.
    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tools—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

    • Slide a plastic card under the left side of the top edge of the battery.

    • If you encounter significant resistance at any point during this procedure, stop, apply a little more adhesive remover, and wait for it to soak in.

    • Slide the card side to side under the upper left battery cell to slice through the adhesive underneath.

  51. Repeat the previous step for all edges of the battery until the adhesive is entirely separated. Repeat the previous step for all edges of the battery until the adhesive is entirely separated. Repeat the previous step for all edges of the battery until the adhesive is entirely separated.
    • Repeat the previous step for all edges of the battery until the adhesive is entirely separated.

  52. Gently lift the battery out of the case.
    • Gently lift the battery out of the case.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • During reassembly, follow this guide to clean off old adhesive and apply new adhesive from a pre-cut adhesive card.

Conclusie

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

102 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Sam Omiotek

Lid sinds: 25-02-19

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58 Opmerkingen

thanks for this, use my surface pro 4 all the time, batteries are a disposable item and really need to be user replaceable

(if a company doesn't have a battery replacement service as good as apple's that is)

Bit of hassle but glad it can be done, zero idea where to get a replacement battery from though )-:

Adrian - Antwoord

found ! selling on ebay, look totally genuine too

Adrian - Antwoord

excellent presentation. I’d never try it myself. But I came here with what appears to be a battery problem. If you accept it as a bit offtopic: my battery icon reads 100%. when I am connected to my adaptor. When I remove the aadaptor plug, the screen goes to only a faint outline…to faint to read what % the battery is reading at. Any thoughts? I’m in a rural area of South West Thailand. So, v difficult to get to a reliable repair shop. Thanks !

paddy - Antwoord

This is probably too late for you now, you’ve probably solved this. But for anyone else experiencing this issue, it COULD be the power options. Windows automatically changes the screen brightness when you unplug, you could’ve accidentally set it right down. Go to Control Panel (Small Icons view) > Power Options. There should be options in there for what to do when removing the power adapter. Sorry I can’t be more specific, I’m on a desktop so it doesn’t have the right options to explain it fully.

dave.robilliard -

Thanks for the tutorial. Managed to break a display cable anyway T_T. Just broke itself… The rest was almost a piece of cake.

Seriously WHY so much shields on the motherboard, its insane… As a Mac Technician for almost two decades never saw such a mess (well except the powerbook 12” maybe).

That being said, I love my Surface !

huexley Yannick - Antwoord

I believe it is shielding EMF/EMI from the LCD, since everything is mounted right behind the LCDin extremely close proximity, electromagnetic interference can distort the picture, at least that’s the theory. On a Mac or traditional laptop, the LCD is well away from the current carrying portions of the laptop

Glen D -

+ 30 just for the 12” Powerbook comment!

lisagrant -

Anyone knows if the Surface Pro is able to run without battery? Connected to power supply of cause.

Søren B - Antwoord

I was not able to run it with the dead battery, even plugged in. It would start to boot, but once the OS kicked in with all the graphics, it would die. I managed to get Ubuntu Linux to work on it a little better, but I would not suggest it. It did not work well enough to use, and Ubuntu didn’t have drivers to run the pen or touch screen very well. Ultimately, replacing the battery worked, and I am now enjoying my Surface Pro 4 again!

Ray Sewell -

I would also be very interested to know. Any feedback from your question ?

Julien Krieger -

I have two under my belt now.

First was a broken screen, very difficult getting the screen off without leaving shards of glass attached to the adhesive. Replaced all adhesive with new.

Second was a battery that was expanding lifting the left side of the screen. Since the left side was lifted this made getting it started for easier. Screen came off intact. The speaker wire (Red/Black) is very fragile, I pulled the pins out of the holder when trying to remove. I was able to put them back. I would avoid it if you can as you only have to lift the mother board high enough to get the battery out and back in. There is enough slack, so I would recommend only removing if absolutely necessary. Followed tip to remove and replace thermal paste (Cleaner and paste (~$15). Had to replace the adhesive under the batter, just ran several stripes of the 2mm adhesive that I used for the display.

This site was a great guide.

mike_mcquillan - Antwoord

Thank you for this teardown and instructions! I just finished repairing my Surface Pro 4 after it sat for a year as a brick when the battery died. (I couldn’t get it to reliably boot up - and stay up - with a bad battery, even when it was plugged in.) I purchased all of the suggested equipment but ended up having to use a razor to shave off some of the aluminum case - near the indentation where the speakers are - in order to get the opening pick under the screen. The pictures were very helpful. Mine had a fan attached to the heat sink on the left side of the device, which meant there were a couple more screws to remove, but otherwise, the teardown was spot on.

Ray Sewell - Antwoord

Hi friend

Where I can get original battery for my Surface Pro 4?

Please give me link

Many thanks

Andread - Antwoord

Which part of the screen is the actual touch screen connection? I just did all of this and my touch is off a bit. I touch one place and it moves one other place. The pen isn’t accurate anymore either. My guess is it’s that housed connection on the back of the screen itself? I can take this thing apart again and just try it; just wanted to see if anyone had the exact connections..

Thanks

Ward Anderson - Antwoord

Kinda strange that they take the hear directly to the battery…. I might be paranoid but it smells a little fishy to me!

Also they should make battery replacements way easier! Surface pros are almost a disposable tablet. I didn’t buy one purely cause of this, but I love them so much!

Chloe Mcholoe - Antwoord

Super !!! Vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Ich habe mir zwar ein wenig mehr Zeit gelassen aber alles funktioniert ;-) der neue Akku läd wieder und mein Surface Pro 4 läuft wieder. Danke noch mal. Achso und es gab noch gleich eine größere SSD =)

Viele Grüße,

Michael

Michael Krömer - Antwoord

my pro 4 is not working with the replaced battery, only works when plugged in. please what can i do?

Samuel David - Antwoord

It was challenging for me to get the contacts in the right place. Aside from that, could be a bad diode. https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

vennic -

same here, changed the swollen battery, surface boots only with adapter and windows reports 100% full battery. Is there a calibration tool or something?

philipploeffler - Antwoord

Sounds like a bad voltage diode. I had similar problem replacing battery, screen and diode on mine.

Alfredo -

hallo, kann man das Sur face auch zur Reparatur schicken?

Johannes Baumgartner - Antwoord

I change the battery on mine (twice !!!) and it doesn’t charge the new battery.

However, the old battery is charged when plugged in.

If anyone has any info..

Thanks

WhuzDaMan - Antwoord

I seem to be having a similar issue. I have yet to find out what is wrong. If you ever find out what is wrong let me know; I have heard it could be a blown resistor but have yet to find one that does not give a voltage readout.

Logan Rocha -

Thanks for tutorial, but I wonder that if I remove battery and only use power adaptor ( while wait a new battery ) , I can use it as a pc ?

Tai Le - Antwoord

Be careful around the antenna when removing the display. I sheared the antenna sticker in half and needed to wait 30 days for a new antenna (25$).

Otherwise, the repair was very doable once the screen is off. The recommended adhesive (tesa), does make the display sit lower than original, giving the border a slight sharp edge all around. I would recommend a slightly thicker adhesive for reassembly.

Henri - Antwoord

Hallo,

kann man das Surface auch ohne Akku, nur mit dem Netzteil, betreiben ?

Achim Dresser - Antwoord

I have purchased and successfully follow the guide to replace my battery. But it seems that i am not able to restore charge amount of time when at 100% it’s only report 1 hour and a half approx.. when on the new battery. Is there any tool or calibration to restore this new battery that I purchased from ifixt to full capacity?.

It look the new battery is original here is what it shows using battery only power:

Description Value

Battery Name X910527

Manufacture Name SMP

Power State Discharging

Current Capacity (in %) 80.4%

Current Capacity Value 26,092 mWh

Full Charged Capacity 32,445 mWh

Designed Capacity 38,152 mWh

Battery Health 85.0%

Voltage 7,896 millivolts

Charge/Discharge Rate -6,480 milliwatts

Chemistry Lithium Ion

Low Battery Capacity (1) 983 mWh

Low Battery Capacity (2) 3,244 mWh

Number of charge/discharge cycles 229

Remaining battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 03:37:46

Full battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 04:30:48

Remaining time for charging the battery (Estimated)

lagarescarlos - Antwoord

Thanks for this information and useful comments.

I need to add that my Pro4’s heat tube has a cooling fan , so I needed to disconnect the fan cable connector by the power switch connector.

Mikio Kuge - Antwoord

ahhhh This has been a nightmare trying to perform. The shields are such a pain in the ass!

Matt Faherty - Antwoord

CAUTION! I completed this process to replace the battery on mine, and there is one IMPORTANT step that should be on this guide. Before removing the battery, a plastic card should be inserted between the battery contacts and the underside of the mainboard to isolate the battery from the contacts on the underside of the mainboard. When I was working the adhesive on the battery contacts from the chassis, the connections crossed and shorted something and burned out the IT8528VG chip. I contacted a repair shop regarding replacement of this part and they said it requires a hot air station to remove and micro soldering to replace. They said they see this common error when repairing. Now my Surface is a paperweight. Please add this crucial step to these instructions.

It is very frustrating to have performed this long, difficult process perfectly, with an intact Surface screen at the end, only to have irreparably destroyed it because of one important missing step.

Kyle Wagner - Antwoord

This can happen because of a blown battery.

Iam still searching why my pro4 isn't running from the battery only with the power connector.

philip oeh -

Appreciate the guide, this was an absolute pain to replace and I do NOT care for removing a battery as easy to damage as these when they’re mounted with such an obscene amount of adhesive. This guide allowed me to do so regardless, thanks.

SparkWorx - Antwoord

READ ALL STEPS AND COMMENTS FIRST BEFORE STARTING!!!

My surface would not charge the battery and would go dead if unplugged, then would go dead on reboot unless given a hard restart. New battery fixed the issue.

Step 18 is incomplete without reading the comments first, you could apparently brick your device if you don’t remove the old battery using a step that is not included in the guide. Also the guide gives NO guidance on detaching the battery contact strip from the shell, or how to properly install the new battery, which is odd, considering the title of the article. I (and others) wrote some comments on step 18 that should be helpful. The rest of the guide was great, but as is, incomplete.

vennic - Antwoord

I recently attempted this repair but with a new battery installed the device now won’t power on. The old battery was severely swollen and despite being as careful as possible I tore the outer foil wrapper and even tore the connector on the battery during removal (the battery did not smoke or seem that it had shorted). Regardless, it’s pretty clear that the device is shorted and is now bricked, right? Is there any remedy or is the motherboard “fried”?

I wish I would have seen the comments on step 18 about putting an insulator (paper) between the old battery and motherboard when removing. This may have saved my device.

Tabaplar - Antwoord

Just finished replacing the antenna and the battery on Surface Pro4. I highly recommend ignoring the steps to remove the battery without removing the motherboard (mb). Removing the mb is less difficult than trying to get the battery ribbon in and out. As many have learned, you can brick your mb, and, like me not get it aligned properly causing “no battery detected”. After removing the mb, I was able to realign the battery ribbon properly and all worked great. This video is great at removing the mb. Don’t worry about removing the buttons, left speaker, or SSD (they won’t interfere).

Youtube video number: n74Pc_luSGI (How to Take Apart the Microsoft Surface Pro 4)

Once mb is removed, remove the battery, and install the new battery, insuring the battery ribbon is on the plastic locator pin (not in instructions), place adhesive under ribbon to hold in proper place for contacts on the mb.

I purchased these and both work great:

Battery (Amazon ASIN): B08595GYBN

Antenna (Amazon ASIN): B08PV8SZ3R

bncote - Antwoord

Please add a disclaimer about how to AVOID shorting out the motherboard!!!

Ryan Sicard - Antwoord

This is some kind of sick joke, right? I just got through this and took out my battery. I do not know how the heck I’m going to get this thing back together.

What’s this paste where the old battery terminal connection was and how the heck am I supposed to get the new battery into place

Nicholas Redding - Antwoord

Did anyone have to use an adhesive to reseat the screen or did you just reheat the original adhesive?

Scott Evans - Antwoord

You need new adhesive

philip oeh -

Will a samsung 970 evo plus be fine to replace in the SP4? I know the 970 evo works fine, but just dont know the difference.

quinton - Antwoord

This worked great for me except I’m now having a problem with my computer not wanting to start up when I have the screen in place. If I hold it by the edges just above the computer, it boots up fine. There must be something touching that shouldn’t and cause it to turn off. Anyone have this problem or have an idea of how I can troubleshoot it?

Marianne Barrier - Antwoord

I would HIGHLY suggest removing the entire motherboard when performing this repair. It’s just another few screws and a few ribbon cables to take it out, and it will make removing and installing the new battery 10 times easier and allow you to align it properly. The guide is not kidding about the adhesive holding the back of the battery in place - it is very strong! I ended up using a heat gun on the back side of the device (underneath the kickstand) to help soften it a little bit, and an old credit card to help pry the battery out.

Cameron Bunch - Antwoord

A few thoughts, having done this over the weekend:

First, get yourself one of those sets of three plastic putty knives from the hardware store (the ones that have 3 different sizes). The middle size was the same size as the battery, and made removal of the battery while heating the back of the case a breeze.

Second, remove the tiny screws (two on each side) holding the kickstand to the hinges. It’ll let you fold it all the way back, which makes heating the backside much easier.

Third, while you’re in there, scrape out the copious and ill-applied thermal paste from on and around the CPU dies, and put on something decent. I did, and my Pro 4 is running much cooler now.

Last, TAKE YOUR TIME. I managed to remove and replace my screen without issue, but it took me a bit more than two hours to get it removed, and then remove the adhesive from the case and the back of the screen. I started in the upper-right corner, used the iFixIt Jimmy, and kept the heat gun around the bezel only, just slightly ahead of the Jimmy

tbldr - Antwoord

I have a Surface Pro 4 with a swollen battery. actually it’s the second time the battery has swollen. I have a question: Is it possible to remove the battery and just plug the device in whenever I want to use it? Does Surface Pro 4 work without battery?

محمد یوسفی‌شیرازی - Antwoord

It does work without the battery. I had no problem plugging it in and testing it without the battery connected.

NotABerger _ -

I just finished doing this repair yesterday and I have a few tips for people trying this repair. First of all, when removing the display, be really careful on the sides of the camera assembly, because this is where the antennas are located. These antennas are sandwiched between the adhesive that holds the display on and the frame of the device, so it is very easy to break them when you are opening up the device. I actually did end up breaking one of the antenna “flex cable” style pcb’s, but luckily I didnt break any of the traces and my antennas seem to work fine. Also, test the antennas, and make sure the device is able to charge at least a few percent before gluing the display back in place, as the battery might not be able to charge if the connectors to the battery aren’t all connected. This is a very difficult repair, and it feels like Microsoft tried to make the battery one of the most difficult parts to replace. Getting the display off is hard, but it is only the first step.

NotABerger _ - Antwoord

I just finished doing this repair yesterday and I have a few tips for people trying this repair. First of all, when removing the display, be really careful on the sides of the camera assembly, because this is where the antennas are located. These antennas are sandwiched between the adhesive that holds the display on and the frame of the device, so it is very easy to break them when you are opening up the device. I actually did end up breaking one of the antenna “flex cable” style pcb’s, but luckily I didnt break any of the traces and my antennas seem to work fine. Also, test the antennas, and make sure the device is able to charge at least a few percent before gluing the display back in place, as the battery might not be able to charge if the connectors to the battery aren’t all connected. This is a very difficult repair, and it feels like Microsoft tried to make the battery one of the most difficult parts to replace. Getting the display off is hard, but it is only the first step.

NotABerger _ - Antwoord

It does work without the battery. I had no problem plugging it in and testing it without the battery connected.

NotABerger _ - Antwoord

hooo, ok that is interested. Thanks for sharing. So the battery case empty ?

Julien Krieger -

Super erklärt und es funktioniert auch!! Schade dass wir so eine Wegwerfgesellschaft geworden sind, aber so kann man als Firma eben Umsatz machen! Top Anleitung!!

Michael Eller - Antwoord

“No battery detected” after install.. :-(

Sterling Baird - Antwoord

Habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht und konnte das Surface anschließend auch wieder starten. Allerdings wird seitdem das Ladekabel (hat vorher einwandfrei funktioniert) nicht mehr erkannt. Jetzt habe ich das Problem dass der Akku nicht geladen wird und auch kein Netzbetrieb möglich ist. Damit ist nun ein neuer Akku drin, benutzen kann ich das Surface aber leider weiterhin nicht :-(. Hat jemand eine Idee was ich ncoh machen könnte?

Dominik - Antwoord

It’s nuts to me that, knowing full and well that blowing a backlight fuse is so %#*@ easy when accidentally hitting a power on input while servicing the device, that manufacturers willingly make the battery the last thing you can unplug. Great breakdown.

Davey Wavey - Antwoord

Thanks for the detailed tutorial.

IMHO it’s better to fully remove the motherboard (what I personnaly did), this has the following advantages:

- no shortcircuit risk when ungluing the battery flex-pcb.

- better access to the right side of the battery to remove it.

- easier to precisely stick the flex-pcb on the case after replacing the battery.

nietfou - Antwoord

Thanks for the tutorial. An excellent presentation on how to carefully access and replace the battery in a Surface Pro 4. I was able to complete this procedure without breaking the display glass and successfully replaced the battery in my old Surface Pro 4 with an iFixIt battery. I used iFixIt tools available from the iFixIt site. The only suggestion I would make would be to use a dental pick to remove the EMI shields from the Surface Pro. The supplied tweezers in the iFixIt tool kit was not strong enough and the tips bent. Also recommend carefully cleaning the glass surface of the display below the camera openings to ensure the cameras have a clear view once all the adhesive is removed, before the display is reattached to the case.

Robert Lusby - Antwoord

Eine kleine Verbesserung wäre, wenn man ein Foto von der Montage des Mainboards am neuen Display machen könnte.

Ansonsten ist das eine super Anleitung ! Weiter so :)

Tst - Antwoord

If you prefer to watch a video of disassembly/reassembly, I have successfully completed the whole process ;) You can see it here:

.

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 - screen bulge fixed, battery replaced, SSD upgraded! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eEbdCMr...)

.

So you can see non-broken screen removal and reattachment, motherboard removal, battery replacement, SSD replacement etc. I even managed to keep the screen intact after all was said and done! ;)

And as few people mentioned, avoid temptation to skip motherboard removal unless you know exactly what you’re doing (and if you’re reading this, you’re probably not). It is a bit more hassle to disconnect a bunch of stuff on the motherboard, but it makes it A LOT easier and more importantly SAFER to remove and reinstall the battery. Shorting motherboard is a real thing, and fixing that problem would be a whole lot more difficult than removing the motherboard. So just do it the right way, you will be thankful later ;)

Just Make It - Antwoord

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