It would be helpful if at the beginning of the article, at the very top, there was a notice letting us know we should replace the battery when we replace the screen, as long with a link to that part. Because I ordered all the parts (battery not listed), tore the watch down, then got to the part about replacing the battery. So I've had the watch tore down, opened, waiting for someone to get the battery in stock. I would have waited to tear the watch down if I knew. Otherwise great article.

This is such an odd question, why wouldn't you just plug it in and charge it instead of asking this question? Hopefully you haven't been waiting all this time to get an answer before you plugged it in.

I’m having issues, too, after doing the battery recalibration. Did you ever get help for this?

In my System report, it says “Battery installed: NO”. I opened the case up and unplugged the battery, then plugged it back in, pressing firmly to make sure it’s connected. This didn’t work, still shows as No battery installed.

I’m in a pickle. I installed battery no problem. I did battery calibration. After full charge as described. Everything seemed to be working. Battery indicator in menu and everything. After fully discharging battery and letting it sit for an additional 5 hours, I did a full uninterrupted charge. The power cable was yellow indicating it was charging for an appropriate amount of time, then turned green indicating it was charged.

When I turned it on, there’s no charge in battery, and the level indicator doesn’t show in menu, and it won’t let me add it in preferences. Pref. pain shows battery at 0%. I tried to reset SMC per apple instructions

Please help!

This is something that should be mentioned in the beginning of the article, or even as a *warning, so people know what they’re getting into PRIOR to taking the entire iPad apart.

The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?

I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

UPDATE: In response to my question - yes, I was doing it wrong. I just installed the new drive into my MacBook Air, and used Internet recovery to format the new SSD. It worked great.

I differed, though, from the instructions here. The article recommends to use internet recovery to install the OS, and then use super duper to replicate the original (cloned) drive onto the new drive. Except when I went to install the OS using Internet Recovery, it was going to install Catalina, which I don’t want to do. (Catalina doesn’t support Aperture, which is my favorite Apple application). So instead of using internet recover for that, I used Utilities to restore the original drive onto the new drive. It worked perfectly.

I bought the recommended OWC SSD, but mine isn’t recognized by my 2015 (early) MacBook Air 13”. I installed the new drive into an OWC Envoy Pro, with the intent of cloning the original drive onto the new drive, then installing the new drive into the computer, and sticking the original drive into the Envoy Pro. Is this what I’m doing wrong, should I just install the new drive into the computer, and move the original drive into the Envoy Pro?