Lol. And here I am keeping this old system going a little longer with a 2TB upgrade.

The Dewalt tool company is owned by Black & Hammer, so this 20V li-ion battery may be the one inside the replacement battery that has received high reviews from Dewalt users. Check out this battery set (one person said it worked on a Dewalt vacuum, so not this model).

It might also help to disassemble the pack shown in that last photo to see if the contents resemble what is shown on that Amazon site.

And if you are successful at this last step, please report back.

Sometimes rust isn’t the crucial problem, but years of accumulated gunk. I picked up a pan at a yard sale that had a thick coating of cooked-on oil, etc., everywhere but the cooking surface. The first thing I did was put the pan in the oven and turned on the self-clean cycle, which raised the temperature high enough to oxidize all that stuff off. It stunk to high heaven, but since it was summer I just opened all the windows and went outside and read for a few hours.

A friend in the restaurant biz later told me they deal with that problem all the time, and just put the pan on a high-temp gas burner and let it get absurdly hot (not quite red hot), with the ventilation on high. That might be preferable to using an oven’s cleaning cycle. Dunno.

After that, you’ve probably got a rust-free pan, and if so you can jump to Step 4.

It took me a while to realize this while reassembling, but my replacement screen didn’t have a “housing” for the front-facing camera. I finally spotted a clear plastic piece in the broken screen, which provided a circular collar that was the camera housing. I was able to take it out and snap it into the equivalent spot on the replacement screen.

As David notes, socket M and socket P aren't the same. If you want to spend a lot of effort on it, Google their differences. The Wikipedia page for Socket M points to a CPU-World article that states there’s only a single pin difference, but for most of us that is a plenty big barrier.

Hi. I'm afraid I can no longer answer the question "does it matter in any way", since I eventually upgraded to a new Mac Mini.

I can say that it didn't *seem* to matter, which means no software failed to run or performed noticeably poorly because of the upgrade. But I'm not especially performance sensitive, so it is possible that all/most/some software was running in 32-bit mode and not taking advantage of the higher throughput of a 64-bit architecture. The most CPU intense stuff I was running when I decided to upgrade was: Parallels running WinXP and some Windows-only legal software, along with Chrome with far too many tabs open, and iTunes. That proved to be too much, and it'd slow to a crawl too often. But I think the upgrade kept me on that iMac and extra two or three years, and was an interesting exercise.

I taped the "Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool" to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

If one wasn't planning on repairing, and thus didn't have to be delicate, could two massive suction cups on opposing flat surfaces pop this open without, for example, breaking open the batteries?