iPhone 6 Plus Rear Case Replacement
Inleiding
Ga naar stap 1Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case.
This guide requires removing the battery. When reinstalling the battery in your new case, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but reinstalling it properly will keep it from rattling.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
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While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
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Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.
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Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
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Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Tweezers$4.99
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Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
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Very slowly, pull and stretch one adhesive strip away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull at as low of an angle as you can without snagging the adhesive strip on any of the components along the lower edge of the phone.
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Don't press down on the battery as you pull the strip.
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Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the other side of the battery.
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Again, pull and slowly stretch the adhesive tab to slide it out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab until it releases completely from the battery. If it breaks, try to retrieve the remaining length and continue pulling, or proceed as instructed below.
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Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.
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Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
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If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Then, use a plastic opening tool to gently lift the battery.
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Thread the floss or string underneath one end of the battery and pull side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
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Remove the following screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the rear case:
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One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:
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One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press to eject the tray.
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Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the plastic clip to the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
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Two 2.4 mm standoff screws
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One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.
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Remove the following screws securing the audio controls and rocker switch to the rear case:
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Two 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws
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One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Tweezers$4.99
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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.
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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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6 opmerkingen
what are the 5 metal "spacers" attached to the housing? they are simplistic metal spacing bars with a tiny rubber block. all held to the left side and right side walls with 2 screws per spacer. The instructions totally skipped this step about removing them. all housings i see being sold do not include them, so wouldnt you want to move them over too?
they probably don't add it because its pretty self explanatory.
step 84, When you have finished tearing it all down, there are a couple of things you missed, the rubber piece that is connected to the case near the speaker and the charging port housing when you remove the board at the bottom.
In addition to the metal "spacers," the screen for the speaker and the charging port housing, don't forget to transfer a few other things that weren't mentioned in the guide to your new rear case: the power button, the little metal switch for the sim tray; there's a tiny black speaker screen near the headphone jack that must be transferred over (might want to clean it off if it has collected dust); in the top left corner there are two more screws to loosen: one is for a tiny metal spacer piece and the other for the antennae connector cable; there is also a little metal square that cushions the antenna connector's socket; a small strip where the earpiece speaker would be that looks like a black rolled piece of tape; and finally, the foam cushion for the rear camera and the little black screen next to it. But yea... pretty self explanatory.
Hi all,
During the instructions, the screws flip from having #00 next to them and then nothing.
Does this mean that these screws are different? If so, how do you differentiate them? I have a replacement set of screws that are unsorted so hoping to sort them with my digital caliper.
All the best
Mike
