I feel like this guide is incomplete, it needs to specify what kind of glue and how to apply it for it to be a "replacement" guide, this is just a removal guide. Perhaps there is another guide I missed?

In the "what you need" list there is a link to an optional "Tesa 61395 Tape" so maybe that's what is required, or is that to restick the speakers, or both?

There is a warning sign on the battery on the product page that says "Installation adhesive is not included." In any case, details are needed here. Thanks!

I have an Early 2020 MacBook Air in front of me and the 2.4 mm screw is a T3 Torx (not a T4)

it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

Note the picture with step 31 shows the shield plate with the cable assembly having been removed just like the linked YouTube shows. Yet these step-by-step instructions don't show that removal. You DO NOT want to remove the cable from the shield as you are going to be using the shield and cables when you transfer it to the new screen.

If you screen is very cracked you might want to consider going for the complete screen assembly. When I got mine apart the clip the holds the button to the screen was too damaged to use. Strangely the clip isn't listed as a part of the iPad Air 1st get if you navigate through the iFixit website looking for iPad Air 1st gen parts but it's for sale here iPad Air Home Button Bracket weird.

just to add what Frank said: the white plastic control cover has 6 tiny clips; two either side of the sliding switches and two in the middle. I found that gently levering the cover up by inserting the tip of an Xacto blade through the holes the sliders ride in avoids damaging the clips. Be careful not to turn the iPod on when you do this or scratch the green paint next to the on/off slider.

The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

I really like iFixit, I think they sell good quality parts and I've used their guides for several repairs:

iPod Nano 5th Gen battery -very difficult, you will need a new back

iPhone 1st Gen battery -not difficult but case gets a little cosmetically damaged

iPhone 4 back -easy

iPhone 4 display/digitizer - medium but long

iPod Touch 2nd Gen headphone jack and digitizer - very difficult

I think my soldering skills are at least average and I'm fairly good at making/fixing things.

That being said, I have to call this video above out. It is in no way representative of how hard it is to get the screen out of an iPod Touch 2nd gen. Would I go as far as saying it's fake? Almost. Definitely heavily edited. I seriously doubt it's possible to remove that screen without any damage. It seems very suspicious this video doesn't show any moment where the clips are actually being disengaged. That's the moment you are going to be levering the hardest.

My advice, always buy a new screen if you open this iPod.

The inverter connector comes off vertically from the motherboard.

There are four plastic clips above the CD slot that may come off or stay attached to the uppercase. On reassembly remove them from the upper case and locate the clips into the slots in the frame inside the lower case before lowering the upper case down into position.