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Inleiding
Als je trackpad stuk is of verwijderd moet worden zodat je makkelijker bij de batterij kunt, volg je deze handleiding.
Zorg, voor je eigen veiligheid, dat de batterij van je MacBook Pro is ontladen voordat je met deze procedure begint. Een opgeladen lithium-ion batterij kan een gevaarlijke en oncontroleerbare brand veroorzaken als het per ongeluk wordt doorboord.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Zet je Mac aan en open Terminal.
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Kopieer en plak de volgende command (of type het precies na) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Druk op [enter]. Wanneer de command is ingevoerd, voer je je adminwachtwoord in en druk je weer op [enter]. Note: je entertoets kan ook als "return" of ⏎ worden weergegeven.
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Gebruik een P5 pentalobe schroevendraaier om de zes schroeven die de onderste behuizing bevestigen, los te schroeven:
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Twee 6.2 mm schroeven
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Vier 3.4 mm schroeven
Sur le mien A1708 EMC3164 j’ai 4 vis de 6,2 (les coins) et 2 vis de 3,4 celles au milieu en bas
Ce tutoriel n’est pas dans la bonne section !
c’est le 13” avec touch bar et non celui avec les touches de fonction .
l’autre tuto nommé “écran complet” est le bon
Bonjour Vincent,
Si vous cherchez le même tutoriel pour le MacBook 13” non Touch Bar, le voici : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
Before you start I suggest you get magnifier eyeware as screws and connectors are very small and good lightning are a big PLUS
Completed whole steps in over 4 hours….but worth it. Works back perfect and battery error message is gone….
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Plaats een zuignap op de plaat in het midden van de voorkant van de MacBook Pro.
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Til de zuignap op om zo een kleine opening te creëren tussen de onderste behuizing en het chassis.
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Steek een hoek van een openingsplectrum in de opening tussen de behuizing en het chassis.
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Schuif je plectrum om de dichtstbijzijnde hoek tot halverwege de zijkant van de behuizing.
The instruction implies that sliding the pick up to the side of the case releases the clip. This is far from the truth; it takes a pretty strong force to pop the clip open. The plastic pick is a good start, but you need to reach in and pull the middle of that side of the case pretty hard.
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Steek je openingsplectrum opnieuw onder de voorkant van de onderste behuizing, dichtbij een van de middelste schroefgaten.
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Geef je plectrum een stevige maar niet te grote draai om de derde klem die de behuizing bevestigt los te krijgen.
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Herhaal deze procedure bij de andere van de twee middelste schroefgaten om zo de vierde klem los te klikken.
Look at Step 8 pics 2 and 3 to see exactly where the clips are that need to be released. Taking the bottom cover off my MBP took for ever because I didn’t realize the clips were not right around the edges as the wording suggests. Once I realized this, it came off quickly and easily.
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Trek dan de onderste behuizing stevig naar de voorkant van de MacBook (weg van het schermscharnier) om de laatste klemmen los te krijgen.
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Trek eerst aan één hoek, dan aan de andere hoek.
On the 2018 model, there are two more clips that need to be popped on the sides in the middle. Then it slides out easily.
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Verwijder de onderste behuizing.
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Breng het op de juiste plaats en zorg dat de klemmen ter hoogte van het schermscharnier zitten. Druk de behuizing dan naar beneden en schuif de plaat richting het scharnier. Het zou moeten stoppen met schuiven zodra de klemmen in elkaar grijpen.
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Als de klemmen weer vast zitten en de onderste behuizing op de juiste plaats zit, druk dan opnieuw stevig naar beneden om de vier niet zichtbare klemmen in elkaar te laten grijpen. Als het goed is, hoor en voel je ze op hun plaats klikken.
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Trek, bij het logic board tegen de batterij, voorzichtig het grote stuk tape dat de batterijaansluiting verhult los.
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Verwijder de tape.
Please be VERY careful, I torn up my battery cable and had to replace all the battery.
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Trek dan voorzichtig het kleine stuk tape los dat de datakabelaansluiting van het batterijbord verhult.
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Gebruik de punt van een spudger om het kleine zwarte afsluitpaneel dat de kabel in de aansluiting houdt omhoog te flippen.
Be very careful here. I had to repeat this procedure several times on my MacBook Pro to replace faulty monitors. Eventually, after being opened and closed so many times, the small black locking tab came right off of the connector. Now my battery connection is broken and I can only use my MacBook when it is plugged into the power supply. I’m trying to find a way to securely connect the battery cable without this little locking tab (maybe with tape or something), but so far no luck. Does anyone at iFixit have any advice for me?
Like Jamie said, use mass amounts of caution here. The lever is very fragile, and mine came off as well - and I’m not exactly a muscular guy. Without it, the connection cannot be made to the data connector, and the computer will not think that a battery is installed. I had to finagle my connector with tweezers and a spudger back into place (and the picture above makes it look normal sized. The picture lies. It is TINY! We’re talking smaller than a small eyelash tiny), and then used some of the adhesive battery strip to hopefully keep it in place.
The previous comments are not exaggerated. There ain’t NOTHIN’ to that locking bar. I found it helpful to zoom in with my phone to work on it. It really requires no force to move, I imagine the tape is there to hold it down.
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Gebruik een spudger om voorzichtig de batterijstroomaansluiting op te tillen, om zo de batterij los te koppelen.
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Lift de aansluiting zodanig omhoog dat het gescheiden blijft van het contact. Als het per ongeluk contact maakt gedurende de reparatie kan het je MacBook Pro beschadigen.
Dies ist kein Stecker sondern eine Kontaktplatte, die nur leicht angehoben werden muss. Dann am besten mit etwas Tesafilm isolieren.
(Translation for myself and others; Thanks for the nice tip by the way!) This is not a plug but a contact plate that only needs to be lifted slightly. Then it is best to isolate with some scotch tape.
S Woo -
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Gebruik een T3 Torx-schroevendraaier om de twee 1.8 mm schroeven die het paneel bij de trackpadkabelaansluiting bevestigen.
You should use T4 here as T3 will strip your screw head
For me a T4 does NOT work - I needed a T3 Torx screwdriver.
t4 for me, better check beforehand so you don’t strip. Don’t think the box stores are going to carry these
The T3 works fine. Just be really careful. Keep the tool upright, maintain plenty of pressure and work slowly.
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Gebruik een spudger om de lintkabel van het trackpad te ontkoppelen: wrik de aansluiting van de kabel in een rechte beweging omhoog, weg van het logic board.
If you are removing the logic board, you can skip the rest of the trackpad removal steps. Just fold the cable back out of the way and the track pad can stay in place.
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Verwarm een iOpener en leg het ongeveer een minuut op de lintkabel van het trackpad, zodat de lijm die de lintkabel van de trackpad op de bovenkant van de batterij bevestigt, wordt verzacht.
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Als je geen iOpener hebt, gebruik dan een föhn om de kabel op te warmen. De kabel moet warm zijn, maar niet zo warm dat je deze niet meer kunt vasthouden. Let erop dat je de batterij niet oververhit.
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Peuter voorzichtig de lintkabel van het trackpad omhoog van de batterij en duw het naar de andere kant.
If you are changing the batter you don’t need to remove the logic board and you can jump to step 64. It can say you a lot of time. But there is one trick you need to do. It can be tricky getting the cable under the logic board but I ended up breaking the plastic “wall” that holds the centre battery and you can slide the cable in and just glue back the wall.
I believe at this point you skip to Step 77 if you are not using adhesive remover and not removing the logic board. Ian Jeffreys picture of the plastic "wall" is very useful.. (see comments at the end, he has the JPG posted there.)
Can confirm to have skipped removing of track pad and logic board etc. Right after this step I started to remove the battery (no liquids, used a plastic card only). Please note that when placing the new battery you need start with the battery cable first by sliding the upper left corner of the cable under the area of the trackpad cable connector (compare with pics in step 18). Next place the battery board by lifting the battery connector to more than 90 degrees up (compare with pics in step 15). Then you need to slide the upper right of the battery cable under the area right next to the battery connector. Once the upper part of the battery cable with the battery board is set in place you can start to peel away the liner to expose the adhesive of the new battery, position the battery and set it into place too.
Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.
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Gebruik een T5 Torx-schroevendraaier om de tien schroeven, die de trackpadmodule bevestigen, te verwijderen:
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Twee 4.3 mm schroeven
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Acht 5.8 mm schroeven
Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.
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Verwijder de trackpadmodule
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Zorg ervoor dat je de zes kleine veerringen (twee ronde en vier rechthoekige) die aan de onderkant van het trackpad zitten, niet verliest.
This is all you have to do. Slip the battery into your machine where the old one was, run the ribbon cables from the center battery under the motherboard, run the battery data connector to its very sensitive connection to the motherboard, screw in two other screws to hold the battery “chip” in place, screw in the pancake screw and you’re good. There’s no need to remove the motherboard for this installation.
Why need to Remove the trackpad assembly? For what?
I wish I had read what others said here and watched other videos on youtube. This guide is a disaster. You will end up destroying your logic board. Why this idiot did it this way I can’t under stand. Thanks for nothing you &&^&. I’m having to replace my entire logic board. I could just as easily slipped the old battery cable out from under the logic board. Grrrrrrr. Your guide is $@$* and was so difficult to put everything back together. My fan runs continuously at full speed.
I have to agree I’m using the floss method and not removing the motherboard I did this with a 2012 and a 2013 retina MacBook Pro when changing batteries and those computers are still going strong
I was able to remove and replace the battery without removing the logic board and easily saved half the work.
It's not easy to get the data cables under the corners of the logic board but it you push the whole assembly to the right and get the left one under first, then carefully twist the right side under the logic board you can save about 90 minutes of work
Practice with the old battery.
Also: I leave the tape backing on and assemble and test first. You'd hate to have to unglue a doa battery!
Reviving the track pad is to avoid getting the adhe adhesive remover into the track pad. It's easy enough to do I will do that step.
Anyone has an aswer to why my touchpad is extremely sensitive? the slightest touch send it into a clicking frenzy
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je de instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je de instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
4 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
Met dank aan deze vertalers:
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Team
2 opmerkingen
Great guide. Thanks for posting. One thing it assumes however, is that the replacement trackpad you’re using came with a data cable (i.e. there is no Step 23 regarding removing the data cable from the old trackpad and re-using it). I’m not sure if it’s always been this way, but the replacement trackpads iFixit sells now for this laptop do not come with a data cable. I had to re-use the data cable from the old trackpad. It wasn’t too difficult to pull the cable up and out of the connector on the old trackpad, and there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it. But it was hard to get the cable back into the connector on the new trackpad with the left over adhesive and the angle of the connector. I was able to get it connected after a few careful attempts, and the trackpad works after re-assembly. Maybe in the past, the replacement trackpads iFixit sold came with a new data cable attached, but it’s worth noting that they currently do not, and you have to supply one.
there is no locking tab or anything to flip up to remove it
Actually, the grey bar is a locking tab-the cable might work if you just pull it/shove it in, but do yourself a favor and flip it up with a spudger like other locking tabs. I tried shoving it but neither the touchpad or keyboard worked when i did that
Spider -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Antwoord
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Antwoord
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Antwoord
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Antwoord
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Antwoord
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Antwoord
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Antwoord
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Antwoord
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Antwoord
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Antwoord
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Antwoord
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Antwoord
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Antwoord
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Antwoord
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Antwoord
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Antwoord
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Antwoord
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Antwoord
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Antwoord
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Antwoord
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Antwoord
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Antwoord
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Antwoord
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Antwoord
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Antwoord
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - Antwoord