The cable for the battery seems to pull straight up from the battery to disconnect it, after which it can be attached to the new battery by just pressing it onto the battery.

Models that shipped with a "Fusion Drive" have both the PCIe socket as well as all the parts for the HD.

Removing a few of the logic board screws allowed me to get the to right screw bracket under the logic board to give enough clearance as w98fxr mentioned.

T5 fit best is all the screws on my machine

My machine used T4 screws

On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.

Since I only want to remove the battery and am not using any solvents, I also skipped most of the rest of the steps after this to remove the battery. Just using some heat and a card to separate the adhesive and the bending the battery connector to get it out from under the board means you need not remove all the other stuff to protect from solvents.

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

Heating the wrist-pad area and carefully using a plastic card to separate the adhesive allowed me to remove the battery without needing to use the solvent or removing the track-pad. No need for taping the speakers.