I've got the official technical repair guide "iMac_flatpanel_usb_2.0" for this device as a .pdf file. I can send it to you (5.3 Mb) if you provide me with your email address.
Hi. Does the WiFi on your iPhone 3G work every now and then, or not at all? If it works every now and then, when does it stop working? Is it after a (long) while surfing on the net with the WiFi, or not? Have you noticed if the back of your iPhone was unusually hot when the WiFi problem occurs? Is your iPhone 3G one of the first ones or one of the last ones to have been built? There have been problems with the WiFi of the first 3G series, which were believed to be related to an excessive heat produced by intensive use. Some have tried putting their iPhone i the freezer, but I wouldn't advise you to do so. I don't know if this might be relevant to your iPhone. Update: Have you tried restoring your iPhone (and why not upgrading it to iOS 4).
After installing the new trackpad, I couldn’t click, as the clickable area of the trackpad wouldn’t move at all.
To fix this, I had to very slightly and very gently pry the two small “pods” (on the long side opposite the connector) upwards (ie) towards the tactile surface.
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
I've done this rear panel replacement on two iPhones, and each time I had the same problem:
The vibrator no longer spins / vibrates, although everything else works fine. The mute button also works fine: it does mute the iPhone, but no longer activates the vibrator.
I tried moving slightly the two little connectors on it's side (towards the dock) without any result.
After installing the new trackpad, I couldn’t click, as the clickable area of the trackpad wouldn’t move at all.
To fix this, I had to very slightly and very gently pry the two small “pods” (on the long side opposite the connector) upwards (ie) towards the tactile surface.
once mounted again, it works perfectly well.
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
I would unplug the battery cable before removing/upgrading the RAM.
I've done this rear panel replacement on two iPhones, and each time I had the same problem:
The vibrator no longer spins / vibrates, although everything else works fine. The mute button also works fine: it does mute the iPhone, but no longer activates the vibrator.
I tried moving slightly the two little connectors on it's side (towards the dock) without any result.
Who would have an idea?
Those "6" and "7" antenna connectors are quite fragile.
Be very careful when assembling not to force the connector down; It should click actually quite easily once it's placed properly.
If you try to force the connection, it might easily be deformed, which would really be a pity.
NO!! Don't use glue as this little part which you fix with the screw is the SIM card extractor: it has to be able to move.
I used an IV needle to "drill" the hole. You may also use a big safety pin.
while reassembling, it's quite helpful to use a bit of tape (on the out side) to maintain the button
while reassembling, it's quite helpful to use a bit of tape (on the out side) to maintain the button
4 screws: If the 3.8mm (orange circle) is #1
#2 and #4 are identical
#3 has a smaller head.
Be very, very careful not to scratch, puncture, press, damage, deform… actually just DO NOT touch the battery units. They are extremely fragile.
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