I did 2 and the second one took me 5 minutes.

Add lubricant with camera in upright position as shown. Injecting lube into camera with it on its back will miss gear. I used a spray lube with a straw and used the lightest touch on the tip to just make a spray noise, almost like a gurgle. very little is needed. Practice light touch on the nozzle until you can just make a little bubble of oil form from the straw. I used 3 touches and camera gear noise completely vanished after 2nd shutter trip. Very good article.

I just took my sons apart to clean. They were very tinny sounding and you had to cup your ears to hear them. I thought I had lost the ground to them but alas they were just chuck full of earwax! Q-tip and alcohol didnt cut it so...I seperated the clamshell at the part line and removed the sealing membrane from behind the mesh and soaked the screen halves in alcohol to release the wax. blew out the residue and glued back together and they sound new again, maybe a little more treble with the membrane behind the screen removed. My drivers were clear plastic, not paper as described but I did have the ear-pod duct design. Those cones are very fragile. I touched one with a toothpick to see if the cones were blown and i left a little dent in them that didnt pop out. I recommend cleaning them if they get tinny sounding. you may be able to soak the duct screen in alcohol and toothbrush it without cracking them open. just dont immerse.

Taptec engine is having recall issues. Seems they are down to only one supplier as of news this morning.

Battery plugs come straight up, they are socketed, do not pull sideways. Also some mobo versions do not have cmos battery provisions nor multiple memory chips per side.

The bottom can be removed by tilting it up from the bottom edge, like you ae opening the laptop. The plastic hinges wont be damaged this way. I didnt even know that top edge came off. Also, can you elaborate on the metal ring bootloader protection? I feel this might aid me in reflashing the TMP chip.

If your chromebook is not allowing you to boot from a USB/SD card after you prepared one using the xhrome restore app in play, it only tells you the xhrome OS is missing or damaged, press tab. There will pop up a DOS looking set of strings. The second one tells you the reason it booted into brick mode. If it says 0x05 TMP firmware read only error, you are out of luck repairing it. If it says 0x02 restore button pressed, reboot and hit tab again, it will probably read 0x05 now. Mine is bad and it wont attempt to validate restore media.

Batteries can be rebuilt easily from new batteries available on Ebay and other sources. Pull apart battery case with knife and spudger, they are usually ultrasonically welded or glued. The batterys are tabbed, make sure you get tabbed replacement batteries or have the soldering skills to solder a tab to a battery (not as easy as it looks, they are usually spot welded) Get battery size off old battery jacket, ie. 18550, and buy new identical sized ones. The capacity can be different, hopefully more than the stock ones. Unsolder old batteries and solder in new ones with a few dabs of hot glue and reassemble case with styrene model glue or other plastic glue. good as new and the batteries are as cheap as $1.50 a piece plus shipping. There can be up to 6-10 in a battery pack.

Computer shutting down after you pull the AC power cable and attempt to run on battery, or just cut out suddenly? There is a large square capacitor called a "prodlizer" that is basically a 1200uf capacitor in a large flat ceramic package on the backside of the CPU or very close to it. It is about 10mmX15mm and will say NEC on it. It differs from regular capacitors in that it has a very low EMF (or some sort of radiant energy) so it is perfect for CPU power modulation. Well , this thing has a lifespan of only 3,000-6,000 hours, and much less than that is reported before it starts to fail. It is only $3 shipped from China but its rather hard to solder as there are no exposed solder pads. You have to reflow it with a hairdryer or better, a heat gun. Mine took 3 seconds at low and 10 seconds at high at about 3" using a circular motion with the reat of the board masked with foil. I actually blistered the top slightly and quickly pulled up at about 8 seconds so be careful. The blister was only on the top plastic top so no damage done. You can also solder 4 tantelum 330mf surface mount caps in series from the middle 2 pads to the outer 2 pads, they are both common to each other. I reflowed mine 4 months ago and have yet to have a shutdown.