Weergave:
Niet-toegelaten stemmenIedereen met meer dan 20 reputatie kan problematische opmerkingen en berichten markeren.
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Rep: 13
Gepost:
J'ai une imprimante dont le rouleau d'alimentation du papier, placé juste avant le passage en dessous de l'encre, qui ne fonctionne pas correctement au point de faire croire à l'imprimante à un bourrage papier.
J'ai tenté de le nettoyer avec un chiffon dou, mais le problème reste entier.
Rep: 816,1k
Gepost:
@xavierelgenio working on printers is always a pain. Luckily there is a service manual, but I only have an English version. The paper feed roller is described on page 3-135 of this manual
Hope this helps with your repair.
Translation
@xavierelgenio travailler sur des imprimantes est toujours une galère. Heureusement, il existe un manuel d'entretien, mais je n'ai que la version anglaise. Le rouleau d'alimentation du papier est décrit à la page 3-135 de ce manuel Brother MFC J6930dw
J'espère que cela t'aidera dans ta réparation.
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Rep: 37
Gepost:
Hi,
I‘m consider to have my cracked iphone 7 screen fixed. I want to make sure that the screen part to be exactly the same. The screen kit I found on this website is marked as OEM, can anyone explain what does this exactly mean? Does it mean this part was used by apple or this is only an aftermarket part option?
Thanks a lot for your help!
Best,
Yubei
Rep: 13
Gepost:
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer and is typically used to indicate that the parts are from the same original manufacturer(s) as the brand—in this case Apple—you know and trust. Apple doesn't actually make the screens and the display assembly is from several companies.
I'll let iFixit comment directly on their OEM policy, but generally, yes, it means it's same model/specs/manufacturer(s) as an original iPhone.
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Rep: 2,2k
Gepost:
So, I have 2 MBP's that both need a fresh display rubber but I am not 100% on how to do this properly, I haven't found any real detailed guide or video anywhere showing the full process, so I would greatly appreciate if anyone can give me a detailed walk through and I will make a guide for it when I do the installation. I guess it would be better to remove the LCD glass beforehand (Already out) as there was some video of a guy doing it stripped down to the actual LCD frame etc....In other words, for best results take it ALL apart. As for tools required, I guess I am OK but what about any adhesive for the rubber to stick to the frame etc? This is proving to be a VERY tedious job to get it right.....
Rep: 490,3k
Gepost:
If you have the gasket all I do is wet a small piece of paper towel with WD40 and wipe it down to lube it a bit (only needs a very little) then I place the gasket on the display so I can identify the center as I want to start there. Pressing the gasket in with my finger and doing a small part on each side as well as checking to make sure I haven’t stretched it as I go. Then the fun part cleaning the screen! As the WD40 will need to be cleaned off without making streaks. After wiping the gasket with a dry paper towel using different areas of the towel going along it I then go again with 90% reagent grade isopropyl alcohol a few times with just damp (not wet) paper towel. Then lastly I go from the center of the display outwards with a fresh towel slightly damp making sure not to drag across with a towel surface that already has WD40 on it. Then I use a good micro cloth with a screen cleaner sprayed on the cloth in the same way from the center outwards.
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Rep: 1
Gepost:
There has been much discussion around 2019 MBP 16 VRM Cooling Mods to address high temps and fan noise. What tools are required, and will iFixit sell a kit with the required thermal pads?
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Rep: 816,1k
Gepost:
@livfe "Cannot be as other batteries charged fine" you have tried to charge other batteries and it charges until you use this particular battery? ;-) In that case you want to check your battery control board. It is entirely possible that either a fuse on the board or the control board IC locked the battery. what voltage do you have just on the battery? these batteries are a PITa to teardown but if you have enough time, you can always give it a try. See what you come across once you have it disassembled.
@livfe looks like I am looking at the underside of the connector. Here is the connector pinout
and here are the corresponding pins on the battery cable.
1,2,3 will be positive and 7,8,9, will be ground. 5V maybe 1A and just a short duration. See what it gives you. Always check for excessive heat when trying this. I have never blown up a battery or set the shop on fire, just use common sense :-)
Rep: 816,1k
Gepost:
@livfe if the battery has been discharged below it's charging threshold, it will not take a charge. That is where the controller IC will lock the battery down. You adventurous? You can try and bring up the charge on the battery by attaching something like a bench top power supply (positive to positive and negative to negative) and apply a trickle charge of a few volts and low amps to the battery directly. Sometimes this will "kickstart" the battery.
What MBA model is this?
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Rep: 490,3k
Gepost:
Sorry I don’t remember what this series used for thermal transmission to the heat sink.
Most likely thermal paste not a pad and often it’s a bit thicker often 1.5 or 2.0 mm Silicone Thermal Pad as it is used to span a bit of distance which is common with VRAM chips used with dedicated GPU’s.
For CPU/GPU chips I strongly recommend thermal paste as you don’t want a distance between the heat source and the heat sink solution.
Rep: 490,3k
Gepost:
@wozniattack - Ah! So it’s a pad using the bottom plate to dissipate the heat, that makes sense.
To verify the needed thickness you could use a pile of business cards placed on the bottom case where the pad would go stacking them up to gage what’s needed. Once you have set the thickness you can get what you need. There is gaping thermal paste Apple moved to it to save some effort applying the pads on the VRAMs. Not a lover of this TIM but that’s another possibility.
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Gepost:
Replaced the battery with new iFixit battery and when system starts to boot (still at Apple logo), fans turn on full and stay on full after OS startup. After boot, battery icon is showing an X and shows battery service recommended in system settings.
Battery data cable/connector problem perhaps?
Here's a snap of Coconut battery as requested. Also note that when I seated the battery data cable into the zif socket on the logic board side, the zif lock piece went flying when I pushed it down. Cable seems to be seated ok otherwise...
Rep: 490,3k
Gepost:
I would install this gem of an App CoconutBattery let’s see what it tells us. Take a snapshot of the Apps main window and post it here so we can see it.
Oeps! Ik zou graag mijn mening herzien.
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