Inleiding
Use this guide to replace the trackpad. This procedure involves using adhesive remover to remove the battery. Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.
To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.
Gereedschap
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.
Hi, any issues with you computer after a year? I didn’t put mine back in either…
Kevin, I forgot to place mine back in! How is your laptop doing without it?
Is it ok if I did put the plastic cover back in?
yes, it is okay
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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
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Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
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One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw
Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.
I can not put back top screw holding the plastic part. Help please
The colors of the circles marking the locations of the screws in the photo are reversed.
stop abusing
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Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.
You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts
Dan -
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?
Be extra careful when tightening down on the interposer. When I powered on upon completion, the battery was not connected. When I opened it back up, I saw that one of the little metal nubs holding the interposer in place had snapped off (the one on the side, not the corner). I was able to carefully tighten the wide head screw back in, watching the alignment, and the battery was successfully recognized. Hopefully the connection holds up.
So something similar happened to me. One the the metal alignment nubs snapped off, and when I went to screw down the interposer it started emitting a burning smell. Do you guys think I fried the board? There doesn’t look to be any visual damage but the computer wont turn on.
Geremy C -
Where can I buy a replacement interposer? I may have lost mine in the process of replacing the battery.
земля пухом братан, ты приехал
I really dont understand why to unplug so many parts if the SSD can be easily removed without all this effort. its not even connected to the battery..
I was reassembling and put the interposer back and when the battery contact board touched the interposer, there was a little spark. Should I be worried?
I skipped this step but still OK.
Warning to all: I snapped off the alignment nub as well, as I removed the interposer, and now it won’t start with a brand new battery. Any solutions to a “snapped nub” issue?
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.
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Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
This step is NOT really necessary. The trackpad can be removed with this cable still in place.
I totally agree with you.
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Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
This step might not be necessary if you don´t remove the right speaker cable (You can change the battery without doing so)
@Juan Cabrera yes but you need to remove both speakers to be able to remove the three battery retaining screws on each side don’t you ? The IO flex sits right up at the edge of the battery so best to remove it and the speakers have to come out I would have thought ? I am just halfway through removing my battery now though so :)
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
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Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.
It just has happened to me. How have you been able to solve it?
Thanks
I agree with you.
Looks like the pointy end of the spudger tool is used in the picture. That's what I used.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
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One black 6.8 mm screw
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One silver 6.3 mm screw
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One black 4.9 mm screw
There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.
Confirming, 2x T5 6.8mm, one with metal sponge stuff on top. And one T5 6.3mm on the bottom right.
it is a sticker, move it out like a sticker
My machine looks to have never been opened before. It is as the speaker retaining screws lengths / colours are here, with silver 6.3 mm screw located in the orange position in the corner under the self adhesive mesh sticker.
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
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Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.
For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
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One black 6.8 mm screw
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One silver 6.3 mm screw
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One black 4.9 mm screw
The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.
Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!
Spencer is right, I think you should update the step 19
Thanks everyone for the heads up! We’ve gone back and remeasured the screws to confirm, and have updated the guide appropriately.
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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.
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While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.
You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time
Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)
I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj
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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.
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Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
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Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
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Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.
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Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.
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Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
Can I do this without adhesive remover and just rip off the cells?
If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws
I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj
Some good advice:
Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…
Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.
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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.
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Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.
I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.
we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)
Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.
This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.
by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.
Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.
I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid
Some good advice:
Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…
Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.
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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:
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Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.
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Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
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Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.
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Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.
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Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.
Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.
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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.
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With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
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Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.
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Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.
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Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!
I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.
If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?
Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.
lamajr -
Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?
@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.
When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.
thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.
Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.
Excellently communicated.
I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.
Hi all,
After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?
My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???
Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!
Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!
BR,
Vijay
Hi Vijay!
Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!
Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.
Thanks!
My Macbook Pro late 2012 battery is swollen. All 6 cells are. I noticed it when I replaced the cooler paste using your excellent guide.
This Macbook has become a desktop Mac, I don’t carry it around much anymore. Can I just remove the old battery, dispose of it in appropriate channel and use my Macbook Pro without battery always on power cable? This will also increase ventilation. Or will the Macbook Pro refuse to start up in the absence of the battery? I remember this worked on the white Macbook back in the days.
Hi All,
Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?
Cheers,
James
ご指摘ありがとうございました！訂正済みです。
Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks
Hi Mizuno,
The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.
These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?
You could try it, but there’s very little slack in that cable. I think you’ll have a hard time disconnecting the trackpad without straining or tearing the cable.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Prerequisites: Only need to remove battery, both speakers partially and the long central battery piece, others aren't in the way.
This can be done without removing the battery. The touchpad ribbon cable can be disconnected on the logic board, then snaked (gently!!) back out its channel with the battery in place.
It won't thread back through when replacing the touchpad though - it's not stiff enough. Instead, cut a strip of material from a manila folder and thread that through the channel under the battery. Then use masking tape to attach the touchpad cable to the manila strip and pull the strip out towards the logic board. The touchpad ribbon threads through the channel and the masking tape can be removed once it's in place.
Only the battery connector, SSD cable, and SSD carrier need removed.
Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.
I agree with sinwillet’s comments above; I repacked the battery and trackpad and did not remove the speakers entirely or the I/O board data cable
Note that the replacement trackpad may not have the ribbon cable or it may be the wrong length. Ok because you can reuse the ribbon cable on the original trackpad, as Philippe suggested above.
If you want to avoid removing batteries or skip Steps 24-34, then don’t replace the track pad ribbon. Use the existing ribbon assuming it still works (they usually do). It is impossible to thread the track pad ribbon though the very narrow gap between the batteries and the casing. If you want to use a new ribbon, you only need to remove the batteries on one side so you can have access the space where the ribbon goes into the main board. I didn’t use any chemicals for the glue under the battery. Pry the batteries with a flat head screw driver. If you do it with care, you won’t damage the batteries.
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Antwoord
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
The colors of the circles marking the locations of the screws are reversed.
Homer Hegedus - Antwoord
On my model A1425 these were all 1.2mm P5 screws. They all looked the same to me.
bigfish333 - Antwoord
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Antwoord