This likely indicates a graphics chip failure and need for a new motherboard. Very common in the 2011 Macbook Pro series, but apparently also affects some retina display models too. Repair extension from Apple https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro-videoissues/ Sadly they no longer repair the 2011’s.
It is not a total reboot, it just turns on the machine. That said, unplugging the battery and the power for a bit (30 mins?) should accomplish an SMC reset.
The Accepted Answer refers to a post which replaces the optical drive with an SSD so that the iMac has both an SSD and HDD. To answer your question, there is no 3.5" SSD drive form factor. What you want is a 2.5" SATA SSD, which you will place in a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Because of the length of the cables, you want one that won't just hold the drive in place but puts the connections where they belong, such as the Icy Dock EzConvert.
Good catch, looks like I misread the original post. I was responding to the sentence "In order to put a SSD into an iMac that isn't a 27" or a 2011 21.5" then you need a optibay." This is true only if you wish to retain the original HDD, which was the case, but as I said, I misread the somewhat awkwardly worded original post. That said, prices for 512GB SSDs are getting near $200 these days and will continue to fall. Considering the speed increase and reliabilty of SSDs vs HDDs, I am finding it harder to justify the cost savings of HDDs lately.
The top case is a bit different as well. The are screw holes for the subwoofer on the 2010 which the earlier model lacks, and the bluetooth antennae on the 2010 has a piece of metal that looks like it attaches to the frame (glued?). The older model has a thin black plastic material covering that area (which appears to be cut away on the newer one, but I couldn't find any info on removing it and didn't want to mess it up so I left it in place. HTH someone.
“Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).
Before you can do this step, you will need to remove the 4 screws holding the subwoofer on top and move it aside.
Would be nice if there were instructions on removing the thunderbolt cable. Beware that the grounded screw is the short one with the fine thread. Also note that the screws are going into plastic mounts which are easily stripped.
“While disassembly was very straightforward, there are a lot of parts, cables and connectors, making full reassembly not for the faint of heart.”
Especially using this teardown, which unlike most of the great guides here on iFixit, seems to favor levity over usefulness. It wouldn’t have been much more work to actually label things so it would be easier to know exactly what to do. Shame
Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.
There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case
Nor for the logic board removal
“Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).
If you have the part in step 10, you do. If you don’t, you don’t (looks like pic in step 9).
Nice guide. I think rating this as Difficult is over stating it; this is moderate at best.
Not even close.
Might as well do this first, so you don’t dump dirt everywhere when flipping Roomba over.
Before you can do this step, you will need to remove the 4 screws holding the subwoofer on top and move it aside.
Would be nice if there were instructions on removing the thunderbolt cable. Beware that the grounded screw is the short one with the fine thread. Also note that the screws are going into plastic mounts which are easily stripped.
“While disassembly was very straightforward, there are a lot of parts, cables and connectors, making full reassembly not for the faint of heart.”
Especially using this teardown, which unlike most of the great guides here on iFixit, seems to favor levity over usefulness. It wouldn’t have been much more work to actually label things so it would be easier to know exactly what to do. Shame
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