It mainly depends on the frequency of "maintenance" cycles and power cleanings run on the printer (auto and manual). Otherwise, they usually last ~5-6 years these days with the internal pads (they used to be 10-15+ before the 2010 black cart printers happened) unless you run them hard and run the page counter up to 20k+ pages in 1-2 years. If you run the maintenance on the printers a lot it still hurts you a bit but at the same time, regular maintenance will not do much harm as the tolerance is built into the printer.⏎
However, power flushes nuke your waste box service life drastically so much so it's a NUCLEAR OPTION to AVOID!!! Never, EVER utilize power flush!!! FULL-COLOR PAGES TARGETING THE ISOLATED COLOR DO LESS HARM! It was initially sold in Walmart and Target, so that should give you an idea of who usually buys them.
Epson's cost structure is simple: as much as a new printer, or you are SOL. Usually SOL; Epson often denies HW service when you ask them to fix it due to the parts being EOL or "too expensive." They give you a one-shot reset to get more out of the pad, but you can't reset it again once that's done without service or the Epson Adjustment tool. However, since the ET-2400 is derived from the "chipped" box printers designed to be replaced, it's accessed on the same service panel as the serviced ones and only needs a Phillips driver. However, you need to reset the counter (which isn't always possible), or it takes years to open up the reset to 3rd party tools like WIC reset utility (some may never be resettable outside of Epson). Epson used to have somewhat regular tool leaks where if you could find the appropriate adjustment program+keygen, it was possible; like Canon, I suspect Epson has moved this to the cloud logins to prevent leaks and encrypt these tools so we can't hack/decrypt them.
Despite good color and B/W models starting at $400+, I use laser printers for a reason. That being said, if I get a deal on a used high-end model like a split drum/developer Lexmark CS with a low page count, I usually take it over dealing with inkjet for a reason: This isn't a problem. However, they're more expensive to maintain than an ink tank printer like these Epsons and are more needy in terms of consumables (Ex: drums, toner and developer on the CSX10 models, whereas Lexmark sells them as a paired set with the CSX20 and up; same for the CX AIOs). Even the transfer belt and fuser are "150-200k page" maintenance items on some models.
The other reason I generally do not recommend them to anyone is their bulk: These things are heavy, as in 50+ lbs, and some units require light parking lot breakdown of the tray assemblies to fit in an average car unless you have a box truck.
NOTE: The model where the transfer belt is a wear item is almost dead, outside of legacy models that had it. These get valued accordingly on the used market, given that these belts are often $300+. It's usually not something that gives out unless you do something dumb like scratch or dent the belt.
The best ones in this "lots of consumables, cheap to run" category for laser printers are machines like the Lexmark CS/CX series (lifetime transfer belt and 150-200k drum+dev bundle setup) or a 3-4-year-old "owned" Xerox printer that were never on a supply contract (Metered supplies) or leased unless they have been paid off or converted to shipped without the contract toner to lock them back into metered supplies. Canon has some too, but they blur the line between upgraded Color ImageCLASS models with better toner yields and warranties (available on the consumer and business sites) and the ImageCLASS D/X (mono) on the low end (not on the consumer site) and the ImageRunner series.
Here's how big some of the "compact" ones are. They're workhorses, but they fail the "consumer convenience" test since they're not like an Epson EcoTank you can take home and set up just about anywhere. Due to the sheer weight of the printer, you need a desk or table that can handle a 50lb+ laser.
These are the units I tend to run:
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