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The unit will not power up...when I press the power on button the lights kind of flash/flicker and then nothing. It just started doing this all of a sudden...any ideas or suggestion so I can get this unit functioning again?
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@jakeboger sounds like you are having a power supply issue. Possibly bad caps based on the flickering lights. You'll have to disassemble the unit. Use this guide and take a look at the components. Check for leaking or domed looking caps etc. Post some images using this guide so we can see what you see.
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I have B112D similar problem, what power supply parts can I buy? I tried to find Behringer Q04-AWT00-17000 Power Supply PCB For EUROPOWER B112D in Australia, don't seem to get any answwr.
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I fixed a Behringer BD212D which did not powered up recently: here are some clues.
Diagnostic: 16V DC supply not functional due to unreliable design and poor quality components…
1) Schematics: Look for Eurolive BD215D schematics, they are almost identicals.
2) Disassemble the unit following available tutorials. Take pictures, count your screws !
3) I had to replace IC3 (Viper22A available on Digikey as #497-7594-5-ND)
4) I also replaced also C10 (replace with 47 uF, 35V), C2 (replace with 100uF, 35V) and D37 (replace with 800V,1.5A) diode.
5) Reassembled everything, thanks to pictures.
6) Power-up ok, tested ok
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How did you figure out these parts were bad? Cheers
They were parts of an auxiliary power circuit that is supposed to feed the rest of the circuit board. When power was applied at the circuit input, no output was provided. I replaced the parts of this circuit which were the most susceptible to failure, one at a time. Designwise, some of them have specifications which barely meet the requirement for this type of circuit... the diode D37 failed short and probably damaged the other parts.
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Hope this posts. I have cured a few of these units with capacitor replacement. Not the big ones the small 10, 47 and 100 uf in primary side . May or may not show as bulging at the top. Also had to resolder c33 yellow rectangular mylar cap in primary side on one occasion. This is for 615d ps/amp pcb. Have also had broken pins on output ic due to flexing and vibration in this area.
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Hey Pesh. My 115d bit it last week and i came across this thread and after reading your post i opened it up and found one cap a little bulgy 1 of the 100uf looks like it drives the secondary brd as there is two lines of the ribbon that feeds top pcb comming from right next to it on main board. getting a replacement tomoz fingers crossed. Cheers :)
Good good day,
Is there anywhere I can purchase this B212D power supply?
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same question where can i purchase one from?/
Same problem just tried to power up my B115W speakers both of them dead. Sitting in the garage for about a year
I have the same problem with my 2 B215D speakers and my behringer subwoofer
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The lights do not flicker every time. When they do flicker I can hear a noise hum. The guide did help me take it apart, but I did not see any thing that looked unordinary. I thought it may be the power switch...I will post some photos later...thank you
door Jake Boger
данная проблема характерна для всех колонок этой серии! причина в износе электролитических конденсаторов вторичных цепей импульсного блока питания. ремонт - замена (желательно всех) конденсаторов.
!!!надо правильно выбрать марку конденсаторов, иначе сделаете хуже
Google translation:
This problem is typical for all columns of this series! reason for the deterioration of the electrolytic capacitors of the secondary circuits of the switching power supply. repair - replacement (preferably all) of capacitors. !!! it is necessary to choose the brand of capacitors, otherwise make worse
door cyborr
Hey guys. I've left my two 212Ds in the garage now for about a year cause I was broke and couldn't but the replacement part supply. Looking at the PCB, one of the smaller caps was definitely bulging and I got into electronics just enough to be dangerous… When I finally got the courage to replace the bad caps myself, I couldn't for the life of me melt the solder on the board! Is it just my cheap Chinese made soldering iron, or is the board somehow protected to prevent a relative noob like me destroying a PCB? (Which is busted anyway, so may as well give it a try, right?)
Related question: Does the brand of capacitor matter much? I'd like to go with something higher quality than what's already in there… Panasonic maybe? This only matters if I can melt that dang solder! (My iron claims to go upward of 450, so I assumed it'd be fine. It worked on all my other small projects (thanks radio shack!)
door Eddie Ludema
Hi Eddie Ludema
I think is more on the wattage your soldering can give out.... IIRC min 60W, best I heard is ard 80W is good. To desolder add some new solder over to it, to have some flux, it does help to melt and use a desoldering pump to remove it.
door Augustine
I have been soldering since I was 9yo, it's not something that anyone will be good at without some practice.
You need to get the solder to flow, to conduct the heat from the iron. I also wouldn't recommend using an Iron that is not temperature controlled, if you don't know what temperature your iron is how are you going to know if it is going to melt solder or burn the crap out of the PCB
Perhaps practice on some boards that don't matter, removing and installing components, Personally I prefer de-soldering wick over the sucker pump, although they do have their place.
door David Gillmer