@mrkovacs: Absolutely no surprise there, I’d say. I don’t know the actual voltage the battery was discharged to, but depending on how low the voltage is for a battery, this can be very damaging. Imagine it, simplified, as a chemical process that occurs when there’s not enough charge to get the charge from the wire to the most distant parts of the battery, and that is partially permanent, so charge can never get there anymore. (Or vice versa with charge never getting out again, for the other side of the battery.)

It may also just be, that the battery already was at only 97,5% due to “age” (amount of usage, times how much it was charged and discharged each time), and the system didn’t know that until you forced it to check.

I had a bad battery, where each calibration caused the capacity to fall dramatically. (After 8 calibrations, it was down to 12% capacity.) So i recommend only calibrating when you really need to, to avoid these strong dischange states.

@szymon mochort:

“3rd party battery BAD” is literally FUD and a scam told by manufacturers to establish a lock-in aka localized monopoly dependency on victims. That’s usually a crime, by the way, and localizing it is just a way to work around that that isn’t illegal yet. It’s still just as much the exact opposite of a free market, and deliberately so, since corporations actually hate nothing more than a free market, unless by “freedom” they mean their freedom to take our freedom.

Their batteries are just as good/bad as that of third parties! !&&*, often they come from literally the same manufacturer! There is no “original”. Those so-called “original” batteries have just as much exploded (example: Samsung), and are just as much made as cheaply as possible (especially in the case of Apple), and most of all: Them being bad is *literally* the whole reason we’re even having this discussion here in the first place!

So stop spreading that nonsense or you too are an accomplice in what is, effectively, a crime.

Der Kleber löst sich erst bei 90°C!!

(Quelle: Herstellerangaben zu ähnlichen Klebern, z.B. den bekannten T-8000 und T-7000.)

Daher ist es so problematisch mit gewöhnlichen Warmkompressen bzw dem iOpener! Da diese nur bis 100° warm werden können, und schnell auf unter 90°C abkühlen! Deswegen ist es so schwer! Und deswegen geht der Bildschirm so leicht kaputt!

Wenn ihr also die Möglichkeit habt, versucht, das Ding auf ausreichend weit über 90° zu erhitzen, aber das so kurz und so niedrig wie möglich zu halten, da der Rest des Geräts bei den Temperaturen sonst auch leicht Schaden nehmen kann!

Also z.B auf 99°C erhitzen (mit einem Bratenthermometer zwischen Wärmequelle und Bildschirm leicht festzustellen), die Wärmequelle überall außer an einer Stelle weiter auf dem Bildschirm belassen(!), und dann eilig aber vorsichtig, den Kleber an der freien Stelle (Ladebuchse) lösen, und sich so voranarbeiten.