Well since you're talking about removing it, have you considered getting something like a flat piece of aluminum, maybe ⅛" thick, cutting it to fit over the hole where the clock sits? You take a Dremel or other sander and round/bevel the edges, then take a small diameter rivet and secure it on either side. If you paint it with spray enamel it should look good and aluminum and enamel can withstand the heat. Or you could get two small pieces of metal, use the rivets to secure them to the back of the material the hole is in with ½ of them sticking into the hole as a backer, then get a piece of aluminum the thickness of the material that hole is in. Trim it to fit nicely into the hole. Then rivet it to the backers you installed. Then, other than the rivets, it would be flush with what is there. And aluminum is soft enough drilling for the rivets should be easy. A coat of enamel and viola it should look pretty darn good! Cheapest/easiest way I know to do it since they want so much for parts.

Considering the price of parts, and of a brand new dishwasher... I'd personally replace the dishwasher. You have to look at what you've spent/will spend on parts, vs price of a new one. If you're anywhere near the 50% mark... don't bother. Because if you end up having to replace another part that's over $100, then you've almost doubled your investment in it. BUT, if you are handy and can replace these parts yourself then it can be worth it. If that pump is $160 parts/labor... then the part itself is probably around the $60 range. However you've also mentioned it doesn't heat water and will stop mid-cycle. This can add even more to the bill for parts. Ultimately your call since is your money. Just compare price of parts to price of new machine.

Any time I've had to trace a drain like this I put an amp meter on, and pull one fuse at a time until the drain goes away. Whatever fuse does it, that's the circuit you need to check. Might have to trace the wires n visually inspect, or ohm them to make sure they aren't shorted to ground causing a drain. It's a huge pain but the only way I know to fix it.

You should check for any codes. Are your fans running? If it happens when you are stopped that's where I would look first.

There are a few possibilities here. Condenser coil dirty. Fan not working properly to allow condenser coil to do its job. Orifice tube (if it has one) is clogged. Or low refrigerant.

This sounds like the blower motor needs a new capacitor. You do not want the condenser to run without the inside blower motor running. Is an old post but figured I'd weigh in for future readers. You'll need to shut down power to the air handler/furnace, open it up to gain access to blower motor, and, unplugging the two wires going to the capacitor first, check the capacitor to see if it's reading the correct value. Chances are it isn't.

Once the metal piece is attached and the adhesive has cured, then take your mirror and look at the base that attaches to that metal piece. There is a set screw. That's likely what the tool he left for it is for. There may be a plastic cover covering it. Open it up to access this screw. Then go ahead and loosen the screw (don't take it out! Is a pain to put back in with mirror in place!) Then take the mirror and slide the base down onto the metal anchor from the top. Make sure it's on all the way, tighten the screw, put the plastic cover on, and you're good to go

Really depends. Without exactly details for your vehicle i can't say for sure. BUT... on the low pressure (suction side) you'll see it goes into a large metal cylinder. In refrigeration this is a receiver, but in automotive I believe it's a dryer. Now, on multiple vehicles I've worked on (and owned) there's a sensor attached to that or somewhere nearby. This is a pressure sensor. Usually it opens and shuts the compressor down at ~20psi. This is a normal feature that prevents the ac from just running constantly and freezing the evap coil, and from running if it's low (say, in a vacuum) and contaminating the system with noncondensables. Find that plug, and just take a small wire and jump it from one pin to the next. If it turns on then you need to check refrigerant levels. If those are good you need to ohm out the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't failed.

What is the temp in the space it's trying to cool? It thinks the space temp is too low. That's what I'm finding. It may need a new temp probe. Model and serial of the unit?

No. The unit will not be damaged by this. Just don't run the unit below I'd say 36°F. The heat strips are for when it's too cold for the heat pump to provide adequate heat.