Here's the part where you put the metal rear section with the new LED strips back on the plastic bezel. Remove the 4 small screws that are holding the metal back and then gently push it into place and snap the bezel around the metal back. Some painters tape on the corners and in the middle of the top and bottom of the screen will hold it in place (with your help) as you then turn the TV over onto its back for installation of the metal frame. After that, carefully put it back on its screen (on something soft as always) and finish assembly of the back.

After replacing the LED strips (and make sure you replace both- my new ones were a slightly different color temperature than the one good LED strip that was in the TV; if I had not replaced both the color balance would be terrible and would make the TV virtually unwatchable. To test the LED strips before assembly you can reattach the power button assembly and put power to the TV (remember it's an open cirucit board, do not touch them when connected). The remote should then turn the TV on without the display in place. You won't hurt anything and be aware that the LED strips are VERY bright.

I then put long 6MM bolts partway into the "VESA" mounting holes on the metal back and used them as "pull knobs" to pull the back up and off of the screen/bezel/diffusers. I had a helper for this part. Go slowly as there is some suction generated from pulling the back up and off of the screen parts. If you just yank it up you will cause the rear most layers to shift around a little bit. After you pull the back up you will see what it picured in Step 7. This method leaves the screen fully suppported and virtually eliminates the chance of breakage. Next comment for reassembly tips.

I have the exact same TV and needed to do the exact same repair. I decided to take a different route starting at this step. After removing the metal bezel I set the TV face down again. First, I laid the circuit boards and cables out flat instead of taping them to the screen. Using spudgers I unclipped the black frame from the metal back. At the corners two spudgers and or picks and a very small screwdriver were used to pull the metal corner out of the plastic frame. Do not insert the screwdriver into any frame holes. At the corners have 4 of the metal surround screws at the ready and put one in the metal back at each corner to keep it from falling back down and re-clipping. Read my next comment after you have the back all unclipped.

Make a note of the fact that these 1.2 mm screws are different than the other 1.2 mm ones used elsewhere in this procedure. These 4 seem to have a different thread and a flat/countersunk head. The other two removed previously have a flat/pan head. They are not interchangeable. If you do get them mixed up it’s easy enough to tell them apart if you put them thread up on your work surface which should probably be a tray of some sort. The pan head ones will reflect light at you, the countersunk head ones won’t.