I looked at the hard disk replacement of MBP 15" mid 2010. The process includes removing the battery but it does not look...

I have a Harman Kardon SoundStick without power supply. Looks like Harman Kardon sells the replacement power supply, but I...

There is a silicone water-proofing spray. I used it on my snow boots every year. You can easily find it on any local hardware store.

I am guessing what you mean is "Polling rate" not "Pulling". Polling rate is the rate of your computer scanning what you did to the mice. Since it's a gaming mice, you'd rather want a fast rate, more than 100 times per second (or 100Hz). It would probably make sense the frequency around 2 - 4x of screen update (60Hz), so 120 - 240Hz range sounds reasonable. If it's too fast, the computer spends too much time for the mice, and it may degrade the computer performance, so it needs to be fast enough, but not too fast. I'd start with 120 or so, and see how it goes. You should check out the Razer's web site for the recommendation. -- Tai

As far as I know, the best way is to bring it to Apple Store / Genius bar, and get fixed. Even if it's outside warranty, they'll fix it for $320 flat rate (+ tax). I've done it a couple of months ago. It's a lot cheaper than buying a logic board, and in my case, they replaced a logic board and optical drive. It was a great deal for me.

To see what's going on while booting, power up the MacBook while holding CMD-"V" key for verbose mode. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1492 You can see the logs scrolling up. Once you get to the sticking point, you can see the log output, so you can have better clue what's going on. Most common case taking long time to boot is, your hard disk is about to die, or the disk is corrupt and it's running a disk check (aka fsck). If you want to fix it by your self, get a new disk and replace the internal disk. If you want to trouble shoot first, get an external USB or firewire disk (Unibody MacBook has USB only.) and boot up from it. Hope you have everything backed up, and good luck. -- Tai

I think I found the answer, in two ways. I got my hands on the actual power supply, and confirmed the pin out. Also, the plug is Hosiden TCP8927-53, Kycon KPP-3P, as found in Wikipedia's DC_Connector. You can find the pin out in http://www.bematech.com/support/download... I confirmed that the pin out in above matches with the actual power supply, so I am good to go. I can probably get the Kycon KPPX-3P from Mouser, and a 16V power supply, which I plan to use a laptop power supply I can get cheap. -- Tai

I have iBook G4, and there are two cases of video stuttering. One is WIFI being too slow. 801.11g is up 54Mbit but ususally lower than that. If you are watching high bit rate video (like HD), the WIFI is not catching up. Also, make sure that microwave oven or 2.4GHz codeless phone is not used while watching video. If you are using 11b, upgrade WIFI to 11g, and you may have some chance of playing it back. The other is watching H.264 video (like some of YouTube video). iBook G4 CPU is not powerful enough to decode the video. Cannot be fixed. Both are hardware limitations, and cannot be fixed without addressing your hardware.

When in trouble, try iPhone "Restore" first. What probably happened is, creating a cache (you remember seeing "Updating library") failed, and the cache is corrupt. "Restore" has a good chance to recreate the library list.

Go to an any electronics store and buy an external USB CD/DVD drive. Boot the installer from it. It is as little as $40. Since your optical is not functioning, it would be handy to have an external optical drive. Meanwhile, slap your wrist for not having a back up. Go out and buy an external USB disk as well. Back up the disk using SuperDuper or Carbon Copy Cloner to make sure you have an external disk that you can boot.

I've done using ATX power supply on G4MDD, thought I made a few mistakes along the way. http://www.smartfruit.com/node/58