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Is the long yellow rectangular square the battery for the keyboard? Is it replaceable? It looks like it. Is one of those numbers a part number?
I have an adjustable hot plate. I bought it when I replaced the back and battery on a previous note. I am wondering about some type of shim so that the camera bump is not in contact with the hot plate. I am thinking about fender washers. Is there a better way?
My 2G will not connect to either windows or macos via FW. I have cleaned the connector, checked the logic board for obvious damage, etc. My 1G connects to the same computers just fine. The 2G otherwise works, passes all diagnostics (seems to), and wakes up and charges when I plug it in to the computer. Do I need a new logic board? Otherwise, I am thinking of just manually transferring my music to the drive and living with it.
Has anyone replaced the 5GB drive with the 10GB (original model)? Any issues?
According to this site: https://www.lifewire.com/history-ipod-cl.... The thickness of the various HD sizes is different.
“4 x 2.4 x 0.78 inches - 5 GB Model
4 x 2.4 x 0.72 inches - 10 GB Model
4 x 2.4 x 0.84 inches - 20 GB Model”
It makes some sense from other information I’ve read, but I don’t find any discussion of a thick and thin version. Is the back for the 20GB model thicker/deeper than the 10GB model? Thanks for another great guide.
I think you will find that the Jimmy tool works better than a spudger and won’t bend the case. It will slide between the case front and the holding flanges and pop them loose. Before you say it, yes I have done this with 6 and 7G. I agree it is a little more challenging than earlier models, but it works equally well.
While I am a big fan of ifixit and have a collection of their tools, this is a really poor method for removing the iPod classic back. I started with this method and have since tried others. I have now done many and the best and far easier method is to use the Jimmy tool. Before you go to Amazon to buy a cheaper version, don’t. The ifixit model is far superior. Take it like a knife and insert it anywhere into the seam between front and back and then jimmy it (pun intended) downward toward back of the case. Then gently work your way around the outside until the back is free. You won’t bend your case, bend the holding flanges, or otherwise do any damage. You can easily reuse the original back if you want to. I have worked on 4G through 7G. As stated some G are more difficult than others, but the Jimmy method works with all of them.