Rather than dismantle to find out before I buy, maybe a wise person here can help. My MBP is an early (March to June) 2009...

I think this is the answer. Thanks @mayer for your contribution. There is a definitive list for all MacBook Pro 15" Unibody/5,1/A1286/EMC2255 machines, of which the MC026LL/A is one, on TheBookYard site: http://www.thebookyard.com/parts_unibody... Scroll down the listed items and you'll find the correct replacement keyboard for the 15"/2.66GHz/5,1/Early 2009/MC026LL/A. To be more specific about dates, this machine was introduced in March 2009 and discontinued in June 2009, which may be why ads found on Ebay for MC026LL/A keyboards are showing mid 2009 MBP keyboards, which are incorrect. This model uses the same keyboard as the late 2008 MBPs (models MB471LL/A and MB470LL/A), so look for these on Ebay instead, or just buy from TheBookYard and negate doubt. I don't work for them, by the way! To surmise, somewhat paraphrase other useful sites and hopefully simplify parts sourcing for any lucky owner of a MacBook Pro 15"/2.66GHz/5,1/Early 2009/MC026LL/A, this machine is simply an upgrade to the 2.53GHz of the...

If you've dropped your G2 (as some in this thread have already mentioned), even from a relatively small height (e.g. 6 inches), this is likely to be the cause. I had the same issue with mine, purchased 10/2013, with what I thought was a knock/drop not worthy of mention, at least, not compared to the abuse my previous iPhones and Galaxy 3 were subjected to with no resulting failures. I found that twisting the body of the phone got it to work intermittently and for long enough to allow me to back up the data before sending it to LG for repair, which they did with no objection as it was under warranty. I'm not recommending twisting the phone as a solution, but rather to demonstrate that the physical force made the screen display properly again. This would correspond to those who said pressing the power button or other forceful actions solved the problem. I too thought it was to do with the power button until that stopped being effective. Basically, it appears that something gets disconnected, with regards to...

In theory, there should be many possible SSD drives that fit this model as it is a standard SATA interface. I'm not versed in the specifics for the job of replacing the HDD on this machine, but there are sure to be many guides on this site. If you want an example of SSD drives that will work, try the following: Crucial MX200 - 250GB SSD You can also use the system scanner tool on Crucial's site to confirm what supporting upgrades they have. I fitted one of these in my MacBook Pro of similar era and it made a world of difference. One more thing to note, if you haven't done so already, look into the possibilities of upgrading your memory as this also gets a lot of life into the old dog, so to speak. Hope that helps.

MacBooks (and Pros) are notorious for having multiple part variations and it is not advised to purchase a replacement of this nature without confirming that it matches all of the following identification criteria: Year (or portion thereof): Usually stated as Early/Mid/Late 20XX - as in your post, Mid 2012 (note that Retina models are different as well) Processor: For example, 'Core i5 - 2.4GHz' Apple order/part number: For example, ' MD101LL/A' Hardware identifier: A1278 as you have stated. Model identifier: Takes the form ModelName[number1],[number2], e.g. MacBookPro9,2. This can be found using the System Information utility (accessible from 'Applications > Utilities' or 'Apple Menu > About This Mac') in Mac OS X. The best place to look for all the Apple identification parameters in a searchable database is http://www.everymac.com/. If you have a couple, such as those you've already stated, it should be easy to find the rest. Only when you are satisfied that all of these particulars in the replacement...