iPad 5 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement

Stap 1 Heat the left edge

• Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 2 Screen removal information




• While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
• Front camera
• Antennas
• Display cables
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 3 Anti-Clamp instructions

Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:
Clampy - Anti-Clamp
$24.95
Koop
• The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
• For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
• Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
• Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
• Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
• Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
• If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 4
• Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
• Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
• Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 5
• Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
• If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
• For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
• Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
• If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
• Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
• Skip the next step.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 6 Insert an opening pick
• If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
• Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
• Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Vertaal
2 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
I had a screen that was lightly cracked, and when I pulled up on the glass it cracked even further and made a mess of my removal. So, I would recommend taping cracks even if you can get suction so that you don’t induce even more cracks.
Andrew Dixon - 14 jul. 2024 Antwoord
I actually had a really badly cracked digitizer. Using the suction cup did nothing but shatter the digitizer more. I intentionally drove a flat head screw driver into the digitizer to reveal the recess in the body where they are showing the opening-pick. Working around the edge, the glass shattered. You still need to be careful at all of spots noted in step 2.
Do not go under the digitizer more than the 1 mm along the sides or 3-4 mm at the corners as shown in step 29 using the flat grey ring around the edge for a reference. Direct all of your tool force into the body to prevent slipping into critical parts.
The antennas at either side of the home button were the trickiest part as they were thin and slightly attached to the digitizer. I would recommend using a plastic tool for these parts if you are having to 'scrape' the glass off of the tabs of the antenna.
adoller - 15 sep. 2024 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 7 Separate the left adhesive
• Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
• Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
• Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
• Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 8
• If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 9
• Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
• Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 10 Heat the top edge
• Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
Vertaal
Één opmerking
Voeg een opmerking toe
How do you heat the iopener?
Steve Passmore - 2 mrt. 2024 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 11 Separate the top left adhesive
• Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 12 Separate the top adhesive
• Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
• Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 13
• Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
• Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
• Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 14
• Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
• Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 15 Heat the right edge
• Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 16 Separate the top right adhesive
• Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 17 Separate the right adhesive
• Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
• The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.
Vertaal
Één opmerking
Voeg een opmerking toe
There are sensitive display/digitizer cables no less than five inches from the bottom edge of the iPad. Insert the pick further down than this, or deeper than 1mm beyond this point and you risk irreparably damaging these cables.
Three inches is much too far down this side of the iPad to use picks.
rcrandall85 - 9 jul. 2023 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 18 Heat the bottom edge
• Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 19 Separate the bottom left adhesive
• Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
• Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.
• Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 20 Separate the bottom adhesive
• Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
• Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
• Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
• If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.
• Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 21
• Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
• Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
• Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 22
• Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
• Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
• If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
• Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 23 Heat the right edge
• Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 24
• Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.
• Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
• If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 25
• Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 26 Separate the right adhesive
• While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 27
• Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
• During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
• Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.
Vertaal
Één opmerking
Voeg een opmerking toe
While reassembling, REALLY make sure the display cables and the home button cable won't be folded / bent while closing the digitizer. I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I broke the home button and touch ID since I bent the home button cable to the point that it broke. These ribbon cables are SUPER fragile.
op_ - 21 dec. 2023 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 28 LCD
• Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
Vertaal
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg een opmerking toe
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 29
• Remove the following Phillips screws securing the LCD.
• Three 4.0 mm screws
• One 4.8 mm screw
Vertaal
5 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.
Travis Dixon - 14 jul. 2017 Antwoord
I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.
Brecht Bocket - 25 okt. 2017 Antwoord
**I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.
Amanda Felske - 15 sep. 2020
! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box
John Smith - 13 aug. 2019 Antwoord
Where can I buy these screws please ?
Anthony Roberts - 23 aug. 2021 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 30
• Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
• Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
• Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
• Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
• Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
• Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.
Vertaal
3 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.
At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.
Cobus de Beer - 21 jul. 2018 Antwoord
Thank you, very much, for this tip.
rcrandall85 - 9 jul. 2023
At this step, possibly depending on date of manufacture, there may be black silicone present on/around the four screws that mount the display. It needs to be carefully scraped away and the two screw mount holes at the top of the screen pried up and away from the chassis. Between the chassis and the plastic portion of the mounting frame, there is a slim sheet of metal. Be sure to pry this off WITH the mounting frame. It is part of it. DO NOT try to separate it.
rcrandall85 - 9 jul. 2023 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 31

Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:
Battery Blocker
$3.99
Koop
• Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
• To reduce the risk of a short, you can insert a battery blocker or a modified opening pick to disconnect the battery.
• Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage.
• Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
• If you are having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery.
Vertaal
12 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.
goodcyning - 20 jul. 2016 Antwoord
I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.
Peter Gray - 8 jan. 2017 Antwoord
Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.
Travis Dixon - 14 jul. 2017 Antwoord
Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?
Tech-ER - 14 jun. 2018 Antwoord
Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise
John Marx - 7 sep. 2019
I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.
It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.
Tim - 12 mei 2021
try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.
Bryan Cruse - 3 mei 2019 Antwoord
A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.
Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.
Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.
At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.
markduff - 2 nov. 2020 Antwoord
From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.
This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.
The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.
I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.
The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.
Biskwit2 - 15 jan. 2021 Antwoord
Contd.
Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.
The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V
Biskwit2 - 15 jan. 2021 Antwoord
I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?
Mike Lindsay - 7 mrt. 2021 Antwoord
If you gently use the plastic opening tool as shown in step 94 to lift the board slightly it makes it MUCH easier to slide the battery blocker in.
Kevin - 22 jan. 2022 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 32
• Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.
Vertaal
Één opmerking
Voeg een opmerking toe
Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.
Brian Anderson - 2 feb. 2019 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 33
• Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
• The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.
Vertaal
4 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.
originalpaintballpanda2 - 1 mrt. 2015 Antwoord
I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: Hoe verwijder je een doorgedraaide schroef?
goodcyning - 20 jul. 2016
Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement display cable bracket?
gwarren - 11 nov. 2016 Antwoord
Note:Be rly carefule with unplugin homebutton-connection.
The plug-connection (Homebutton) is not similar to the plug connections the basic-plugs got.
The homeputton-plug-connection is sensetiv and cant unplug easly.
IPad - 27 okt. 2018 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking
Stap 34
• Remove the LCD.
Vertaal
4 commentaren
Voeg een opmerking toe
Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.
Travis Dixon - 14 jul. 2017 Antwoord
He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.
B. A. Computer Services - 3 mei 2019 Antwoord
If the battery blocking method is outdated and dangerous, why not show us the new, safer method? Just a thought.
hdrjunkie - 1 sep. 2020 Antwoord
There is a separate guide for replacing the outer glass ;)
Gerald Bowen - 5 nov. 2021 Antwoord
Voeg opmerking toe
1024
Annuleren Plaats opmerking

Auteur

met 6 andere bijdragers

Evan Noronha

Lid sinds: 02/05/15

226.270 Reputatie

168 handleidingen geschreven

Medailles: 49

• 
• 
• 

+46 andere badges

Deze handleiding insluiten

Kies een formaat en kopieer de code hieronder om deze handleiding als een kleine widget op je website of forum in te sluiten.

Voorbeeld