Gevaar
Mogelijk gevaarlijk
Als deze procedure niet goed wordt gevolgd, kan deze leiden tot letsel. Werk voorzichtig en volg alle waarschuwingen.
Gevaar

Inleiding

Replace or upgrade the CPU. Don't forget to apply a new layer of thermal compound before reassembling your iMac.

Follow our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Antwoord

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - Antwoord

Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - Antwoord

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwoord

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Antwoord

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Voeg opmerking toe

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Voeg opmerking toe

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Voeg opmerking toe

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Voeg opmerking toe

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

Voeg opmerking toe

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Antwoord

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Antwoord

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - Antwoord

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4" (6mm).
  • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4" (6mm).

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
  • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

  • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Voeg opmerking toe

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
  • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Voeg opmerking toe

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
  • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Voeg opmerking toe

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Voeg opmerking toe

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Voeg opmerking toe

Insert the card back into the top left corner. Insert the card back into the top left corner.
  • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Voeg opmerking toe

Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables. With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
  • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - Antwoord

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Antwoord

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwoord

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - Antwoord

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Disconnect the display data cable. This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Antwoord

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Antwoord

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Antwoord

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - Antwoord

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Lionheart -

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwoord

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Antwoord

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Antwoord

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - Antwoord

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - Antwoord

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Antwoord

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Antwoord

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Antwoord

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - Antwoord

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - Antwoord

Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

Voeg opmerking toe

If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.
  • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

    • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

    • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

Voeg opmerking toe

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

johann beda - Antwoord

Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket. De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.
  • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

  • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Antwoord

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Antwoord

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Antwoord

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5"). Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").
  • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

Voeg opmerking toe

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
  • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Voeg opmerking toe

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker. Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
  • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Antwoord

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
  • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
  • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Antwoord

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Antwoord

Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

lamajr - Antwoord

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together. Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left. Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
  • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

  • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

  • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

Walter Hayden - Antwoord

Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

clinton - Antwoord

Remove the left hard drive bracket. Remove the left hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - Antwoord

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - Antwoord

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - Antwoord

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):
  • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

    • Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

    • Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

Morgan Crossley - Antwoord

Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

smudge -

My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81PjGv8B...

lamajr - Antwoord

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
  • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

  • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Voeg opmerking toe

Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board. Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - Antwoord

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - Antwoord

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - Antwoord

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwoord

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector. Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

  • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - Antwoord

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Voeg opmerking toe

Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board. Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.
  • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

Voeg opmerking toe

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.
  • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

Voeg opmerking toe

Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

Voeg opmerking toe

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Voeg opmerking toe

Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly. Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.
  • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

  • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.
  • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
  • Remove the fan from the iMac.

Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

Walter Hayden - Antwoord

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order: Leftmost
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

    • Leftmost

    • Top

    • Upper right

    • Lower right

My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

Greg Freeman - Antwoord

My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

Joseph Yang - Antwoord

This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken. Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable. Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

Tony Ross - Antwoord

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Gently push the cable out of the way. Gently push the cable out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently push the cable out of the way.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board: Two 23.7 mm T10 screws
  • Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws

    • Four 7.4 mm T10 screws

    • One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw

    • One captive T10 screw

      • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

MrSchaeffer - Antwoord

The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.
  • The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

  • Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.
  • Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

Voeg opmerking toe

Tilt the logic board slightly forward. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.
  • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

  • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

Voeg opmerking toe

When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws. You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
  • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

  • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

Alex Grayson - Antwoord

Remove the four 7.5 mm T8 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board. These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T8 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver. These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T8 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.
  • Remove the four 7.5 mm T8 screws from behind the GPU on the logic board.

  • These screws are set inside large, spring-loaded Phillips #2 screws. To prevent the larger screws from spinning when you loosen the T8 screws, hold them with a fingertip or Phillips #2 screwdriver.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.
  • Remove the bracket from behind the GPU heat sink.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.
  • Remove four black stickers from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.
  • Remove four 12.3 mm T10 screws from the back of the CPU heat sink.

Voeg opmerking toe

Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink. Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board. Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.
  • Remove the spring plate from behind the CPU heat sink.

  • Lift and remove the backing plate from behind the CPU heat sink. The backing plate has two posts that fit into alignment holes in the logic board.

Voeg opmerking toe

Lift the heat sink up from the logic board. The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down. The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.
  • Lift the heat sink up from the logic board.

  • The CPU will most likely stick to the heat sink, so be careful about where you put it down.

Voeg opmerking toe

The CPU will most likely be stuck to the heat sink with thermal compound. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the CPU and heat sink. Gently pry the CPU up by slightly twisting the spudger.
  • The CPU will most likely be stuck to the heat sink with thermal compound.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the CPU and heat sink.

  • Gently pry the CPU up by slightly twisting the spudger.

  • Remove the CPU from the heat sink. Be careful not to touch the contacts.

  • To install a new CPU, see our thermal paste guide for instructions on cleaning and preparing the thermal surfaces and applying a new layer of thermal compound onto the CPU and GPU dies.

  • For the VRAM chips surrounding the GPU, install thermal pads or a thick thermal paste such as K5-PRO, rather than regular thermal paste.

  • Install your CPU into its socket on the board, not on the heat sink. Check the orientation and make sure it lines up correctly in the socket. Follow the instructions specific to your CPU type to apply fresh thermal paste to the surface of your CPU. Then, reinstall the heat sink over the top.

Putting the heat sync back on your new CPU is really difficult. I over tightened and borked my new CPU. Also, it's quite possible that you're going to put a great deal of stress on your Logic Board if you are putting an i7 processor in an i5 board. There is extra cooling installed on the i7 boards with bigger graphics cards. I wound up getting new logic board designed for i7 and having a repair shop do the upgrade (Which is a difficult feat in itself as it's difficult to procure Apple parts on your own). I still came out ahead over buying new or buying a used model with the full specs. But only barely. I'd highly recommend working with a friend or someone that has taken an iMac apart before. Look very carefully at how much tension and is applied on the current CPU before disassembly of the heat sync and adding a new one. Once you've done it once it's not to complicated.

Chris Bernard - Antwoord

Conclusie

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.

35 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.

Sam Lionheart

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So is the CPU soldered on to the board or not? Your guide says it's soldered but the pictures show it as being stuck to the heatsink.

kyle6492 - Antwoord

it is not soldered

Alber Einsten -

Can i use the cpu lga 1150 for desktop i7 4790 to replace for the factory's cpu. Please reply to me soon.

When i removed the display to upgrade. After that, i have a hardware problem, can i use apple care or not

Thanks all

thaipl1991 - Antwoord

I do believe the 2014 is the LGA1150 socket however in late 2015 after intel released the Skylake platform the socket most likely has changed to the LGA 1151. Upon further reading on the page under the link the description states soldered so no more cpu swaps i Guess short of a clean room and some really skilled electronics technicians. This is the link where I found the info on the Late 2015 iMac 17.1: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/im...

Muchofmyservice -

Someone finished this successful in the late 2015 model? Worked fine after?

Alber Einsten - Antwoord

Confirming successful replacement of Core i5 with Core i7 6700K with the late 2015 model iMac. It is possible, but you need to be very careful when attaching the heatsink to the CPU -- it is possible to tighten the screws so tight that it damages the processor.

Aleksi Asikainen - Antwoord

Any tips you can give me? I'm also planning to do the same and also replace the SSD.

lprather1995 -

where to buy ?

lghr95 -

Question...

If you update the processor from an i5 to an i7 on the LATE 2015 iMac... can you upgrade the memory to 64GB as well?...

thanks,

R

RLinhares - Antwoord

can.get it from OWC. here's the link https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20...

Vincent Oh -

Can you upgrade the CPU in a Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2015 to a Intel® Xeon® Processor E7-8890 v4?

Thanks

Jacques Kloppers - Antwoord

Can you upgrade the 2015 5k imac to a kabylake cpu, for example a 7700k?

ghostlp12345678910 - Antwoord

I'd really like to know if someone has tried this as well!

Aman Patel -

Can anyone confirm if there's anywhere to go with a Late 2014 iMac r5K that already has the 4.0ghz i7?

For example, is there a 6-core version of this chip available that would run with the same chipset on the board?

Barry - Antwoord

You really need to replace the thermal compound on the GPU memory, which was a giant pain to find out after having the disassembled system in front of me.

I cleaned up and re-applied the old stuff – taking care not to contaminate and had screen artifacts from RAM over heating upon reconnecting. The previous year thread recommended Fujioply 100x15x.5 pads – this pad is not tall enough to make proper contact. I read the 1.5 was too high, so I might suggest you get a 1.0mm pad. You also dont need two, they are expensive, just cut the pad so that it covers only the memory chip tops and one pad fits with just a little left over. Went with K5 after the first pad didnt fit.

Confirmed that late 2015 3.2 to 4.0 i7 works. Thank you for the tip to not over-tighten the CPU, if you look under the board, you dont want to see the base of the screw coming through the hole or you are going too tight.

I am going to try the K5 paste route though, dont want to waste another 15$ on a pad that doesnt fit quite right.

Charles - Antwoord

Is 5K iMac compatible with Xeon E5 v3 processors if I want to upgrade?

Aaron Chen - Antwoord

Who would be willing to do this for me?? And for how much? I'll have in writing that you will not be held responsible if bricked. Let me know please bigfanpod@gmail.com live in Southern California

Big Fan Podcast - Antwoord

Sharaz101@yahoo.com message me

sharaz101 -

VALID QUESTION: Does the stock PSU and cooling system have enough capacity to handle higher power CPUs? Can anyone answer this?

fyun89 - Antwoord

The problem isn't the output voltage of the PSU it's if the logic board supports the cpu.

sharaz101 -

So here i was upgrading my CPU in my iMac late 2015 everything was put back perfectly. I tried turning the Mac on and the first led turns on but not the second one which was supposed to. I disassemble the Mac approximately X5 times and put it back X5 times but no luck. So the last time i did it I noticed the heat sink was bent I straightened it out and wobbled it alittle and reassemble the iMac and wala it boots perfectly. Sometimes the heat sink bents and tbe cpu doesn't sit straight on the logic board pins.

Also when disassembling the display and are on the slat step there's two strips you could pull instead of trying to work on the last adhesive strips.

sharaz101 - Antwoord

огромная благодарность Авторам статьи, я сам в домашних условиях заменил в I MAC RETINA 5K MK472 процессор на Core i7 - все работает идеально! Правда есть определенные тонкости ......

Андрей Касаткин - Antwoord

Does anyone know what thermal paste Apple uses in this model on the VRMs? I'm thinking of upgrading my CPU but I don't want it to overheat because of the thermal paste on the VRMs not being applied properly.

What thermal paste did you use on the VRMs? And how did it affect temperatures?

Khaleal - Antwoord

Form the Xbox heating woos in the past: Arctic Silver is king paste

grit -

Upgraded 1 base imac27 late 2015 i5 to 6700k i7. First split de large display from the unibody alluminium using allways the appropriate tool to cut de adhesive not damaging anything important. After you remove the screen is more ease…or not, wait till the very moment you have to remove the CPU and put the new one. Its just very difficult. rearrange and align the cpu with the heat sink is a something. When you reassemble everithing you have a few ways to know if exist any problem even before reconnect the display again. Just connect the electrical cable and power on the imac. If you see 2 litle green leds on the motherboard and the fan starts to wok you are probably in the right path. if you only have one gren led surch for some mistake, any bad connection, power suply is it connected or the CPU as seated correctly in the socket. Probably thats the problem and you have to disassembling all and remove again cpu and try again…once again…it is difficult. I did it only on my second atempt.

Maciel - Antwoord

For the thermal paste ended using the mx-4 for CPU and GPU and in the other areas around de gpu used K5 paste. I have cpu temperatures betwen 30 and 65 depending what i’m doing, i think is not bad.

Maciel - Antwoord

Hi all,

Does anyone know if I can realy upgrade my mid 2015 I5 4590 3.3ghz with a I7 4790k. Someone tell me that will crashed my mother board?

THX for reply

Mathieu Samuel - Antwoord

Hi Matthew did you replace the cpu? i have the same mid 2015 iMac and nobody knows if i can upgrade the i5 cpu to i7 4790k.. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Cheers

Andrea Zak -

Can one put a Intel Xeon into that board?

Patrick Jankun - Antwoord

The only question is what kind of socket is there!? And what Processors it does support. Can someone explain?

Ruslan Jo May - Antwoord

Hi to all. In imac 27” Late 2015, i want to xhange the CPU with the i7-7700k, and a new Blade SSD Sandisk 256GB. I have saw the CPU upgrade but i have no idea about the Blade ssd . Can anyone help with this? Will be compatible eith the mac?

George Siomos - Antwoord

Hello everyone,

can you tell me what type of thermal paste goes on the graphics memory (vram), we see what is different color (white), can I install the same as for the CPU and GPU (arctic silver MX4) please?

Axel

Bonjour à tous,

pouvez-vous me dire quel type de pate thermique va sur la mémoire graphique(vram), on aperçoit quelle est de couleur différente(blanche), puis-je installer la meme que pour le CPU et GPU(arctic silver MX4) svp ?

Axel

asequinox - Antwoord

HI Sam, first I wanted to congrats on the great tutorial that’s really an awesome job you’ve made thanks for that. On my side though I think I didn’t do so well lol… I followed each steps and I’ve double / triple check each steps when re-assembling the parts but now I cannot get the iMac to turn back ON. I’ve tried different power outlets, cords, checked every connections to the PSU and the logic board and everything looks just fine… except that it doesn’t boot :( I have a led on the motherboard (first of a series of 4) that turns on as soon as I connect the power cable but when I push the power button nothing happens (fan don’t even blink, no sound, nothing). Do you have any idea what’s going on? Are there some tests I could run to identify the problem? Many many thanks in advance for any answer ;) Cheers,

fpeliss - Antwoord

Hello, is there anyone who upgrade the cpu on a MID 2015 I5 4590 iMac with an i7 4790K ?

Thanks!

Andrea Zak - Antwoord

I guess the upshot of all these comments is that it still doesn’t make sense to upgrade a mac.

Hugh Probyn - Antwoord

I have made the change from i5 to i7 6700K successful. Delided and applied Liquid Metal on the CPU from inside and used MX-4 for the GPU and CPU outside. Results are not that great, although typical, since others with the same processor have similar results. I get temps from idle 50c to 100c until it throttles and fan goes full throttle at 2700+ RPM. Temp is stable to 95c afterwards at full load of course and stays there.

Don’t know what to think of this: Anyone done the switch to i7 6700k and saw different results temp wise?

Vasileios Antoniadis - Antwoord

im getting the same problem here. max load @ 95 celcius, idle @ 36c, and normal 56c-65c. It sounds like how its supposed to be but my fan is running much louder than it used to during idle, max load it sounds like a vaccuum cleaner! I’ve changed my TIM twice, first I used Arctic Silver and it was a huge mess and ran my temps way hotter. Reapplied a different TIM (cooler master.. whatever) and ive gotten better temps but still a bit loud but better than the first time around.

I want to know if theres a better fan / heatsink for an i7. anyone?

Mike -

Having just completed this Sisyphean task, delirious w/ joy, having finally unearthing that CPU/GPU, I mistakenly wiped off all the thermal paste and thermal pads everywhere.

You will need thermal pads or thermal paste for the GPU modules to bridge the ~2cm gap between the GPU/modules and the heatsink. Based on pure necessity, I bought a little tub of this stuff, but as it turned out, not only isn’t there any major differences b/t paste & pads, but per this guys write up of 80 TIM variants, this $7 is conducts as well as the super pricey stuff!

MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC

https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind...

Installation:

https://youtu.be/e9v5MDivZfc

After researching the distance between the ram modules and the heatsink, I applied the same volume of white thermal paste to both the modules and to the GPU.

Seperately I applied a line (as reco’d by Arctic Silver) of Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Grease to my newly-upgraded CPU (i7-4790, 4.0Ghz)

Jay Faulk - Antwoord

I have an iMac 27” Mid 2015. I’d like to upgrade the ram from i5 to i7. Which CPU can I use for this upgrade?

Gino - Antwoord

i7-7700K does not work, you need i7-6700K instead.

Mart -

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