the ibook models CAN use a 65watt power adapter, but can apparently run with a 45 watt adapter as well. You can find a 65 watt AC adapter here: http://www.ifixit.com/Apple-Parts/PowerBook-G4-65-watt-AC-Adapter/IF901-012

It sounds like your DC-in board has failed. Unfortunately, iFixit is currently out of stock on this item, but here is the link to the page anyways. You can find the apple Part # and maybe search google to find another site that might have one. http://www.ifixit.com/PowerBook-Parts/G3-Pismo-DC-Sound-Card/IF106-003

It could be that the right speaker came slightly loose from its connection to the logic board. Check the connection to make sure it is secure. Also, Is the sound that comes out of this speaker ONLY the signal burst or do the regular noises come out, but this signal burst is overlayed on top of it?

If you have the original OS disks You could try booting from those and running apple hardware test by holding down "D" as the computer tries to start up. That will only work if you can get the disk in though. If you can run the Apple hardware Test, run the extended test. That should tell you if there is a logic board problem. If you can't even do that... then I am sorry to tell you that it is most likely a logic board problem.

Recheck the headphone jack connector into the logic board. If that doesn't fix it then your logic board is probably messed up, which means you will have to replace it: http://www.ifixit.com/iPod-Parts/iPod-Video-Logic-Board/IF195-001

First off, I would try it with a different battery. If it is still doing the same thing, then you most likely have either have a logic board problem or a battery connector problem. The battery connector would be preferable as it is much less expensive. It can be found here: http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Battery-Connector-Sleep-Sensor-non-Energy-Star/IF186-015 Coming at it from a different angle, it could be your dc-in board found here: http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-MagSafe-DC-In-Board/IF186-019 I'm not really sure if this could be the case, it's just a thought, but it might be that your Dc-in board is not supplying enough power to both run the computer and charge the battery at the same time. That would explain why it will turn on with no battery (because there is no battery to take any juice), but will not turn on WITH a battery. As I said, its more of a theory than a definite solution, but its worth a shot before trying to replace the logic board.

I'm thinking it could be your battery that is bad. You can find the replacement here: http://www.ifixit.com/iPod-Parts/iPod-Video-30-GB-Replacement-Battery/IF195-018 The reason it works in your car and not anywhere is could be that the car charger pumps a little bit more juice into the iPod than the computer or wall outlets do, which is just enough to get it up and running. I don't KNOW that this is the actual problem, but it would be a good starting point. if that doesn't work then you will most likely have to change the logic board. By the way, if you change the logic board, sometimes you will have to "restore" the new logic board in which case you will lose the data, but sometimes you don't have to restore. I know that doesn't really give you a definitive answer, but just be aware that that is the case :)

The water damage might have also affected the battery connector. I would try replacing that piece. Another possible problem is that in some macbooks, there are "energy star" versions and "non-energy star" versions of the logic boards. You might've replaced yours with the incorrect version. I don't know that that would cause the problems that you speak of, but it is certainly something to consider. You can check your old and new logic boards by looking for the words "energy star". Energy star versions will say "energy star" somewhere on the board, where as the non energy star versions will not. Good luck!

Interesting problem. I would try a couple of different things. First of all, even though I am pretty sure it is not your actual battery, I would try downloading "coconut battery" at: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutbattery/ It's free and this program will tell you what the original, current and maximum charge is of your battery. If that doesn't shed any new light on the situation. Then I would think your problem is either the battery connector or the dc in board. Both of which can be found with the following links: http://www.ifixit.com/iBook-Parts/iBook-G4-14-Inch-Battery-Connector/IF184-001 http://www.ifixit.com/iBook-Parts/iBook-G4-14-Inch-DC-In-Board/IF184-003 Both parts are fairly inexpensive. If it isn't either of those, then I would assume the worst and say it is your logic board. Please let me know what you find out!

it IS possible. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a repair guide for that specific problem, but you can follow the guide for the 15" Powerbook. It won't be exactly the same, but it should be pretty darned close. Check out this link: PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1-1.5 GHz Inverter/Antenna Cables Replacement This is for the inverter, but the hinges are right there once you get to the inverter. I'm not saying that it will be easy.... in fact getting it back together can be pretty tricky, but it is doable. I've actually done it myself on a 15" powerbook.