Hi hunter, get a micro-sd card with a full size sd card adapter. Put the sd card and the adapter into your camera, and when it comes time to transfer, pull out the adapter, take the micro-sd card from the adapter, and place it in your smartphone, and bam! That should work, do it with my nikon all the time.

Adhesive tape, such as kapton tape and other specially made adhesives are usually used to hold the cable in place, such as and usually to the pcb. If the old cable did not use them, and this cable is exactly the same, then just install it as you found the last cable.

Had a bit of trouble understanding your question, but yes, I have used a ultrasonic cleaner for 5S boards before, and it did not damage the PCB or components. Also please comment on this answer what you mean by crystals? Crystal oscillators will not be affected.

If the fuse is blowing as soon as the power supply is connected to mains, I would check to see if any components of the power supply have failed in such a way that it would cause a short. And for replacing it is it internal and external? I googled and getting mixed answers so will answer both. If its external I would find a power brick rated for the same specs as the original and if the connector is proprietary, rig it to the new one. If Internal it looks like you can probably buy them from china for around $60 or find which component is causing the fault. Good luck!

This is not a phone I have worked on, but htc generally builds the antennas into the mid-frame (or loud-speaker). That is the part you see after the battery cover, but you would have to take off the mid-frame to see the logic board. And unfortunately, there is a few antennas. For this model I would say two internals thats are changeable. (Wifi and Bluetooth) and (Cell - 3G, GSM, HSDPA). If you can spot them the larger of the two is usually for cellular services. The reason behind this is that most cellular frequencies are located lower on the RF spectrum than Wifi, and lower the frequency the longer the wavelength and generally the antenna. It could also be a semi-seated connection that is causing a considerable loss of signal (rf energy) that makes it to the phones radio. tl;dr - Check to see if the coaxial jumper is properly seated at both connectors, as well as all of the pressure contacts that lead to the frame. If this does not work try replacing the mid-frame.

Hi Rich, been looking around and it appears like the keurig only has one pump. but it does have plenty of tubes that could be kinked or blocked. I would open her up and do a good visual inspection, and test any possible leads. I have also looked around the web and notice not many promising solutions, I would assume you have tried cleaning with vinegar. And actually if the previous owner was running hard water through it then that quite possibly mineral buildup could be the issue. Good luck!

Generally speaking, Wifi, GPS and bluetooth are only internal, and your phone does not support LTE so we can cross that off. According to GSMarena your phone supports GSM on 850 / 900 / 1800 / 1900 Mhz and HSDPA on 900 / 2100 Mhz. So I would bet it will cover all of those.

Hi Brandon, It should be better off without the bracket near the camera, many people end up installing this piece improperly causing more problems than what the thing was engineered to fix. If for some reason it is not sitting flush I may have interpreted your question improperly, in which case please add some more details and pictures (Yes pics! Most of us hands on repair folk love visuals). Good luck!

I'm going to assume you were referring to the display replacement guide. The connector in step 15 is a 40 pin male connector, but there are many versions of the connector, so a macro-shot of it would be required to determine the manufacturer (by model number) and where to buy. A jumper (extension) for this may have to be homebrewed. In step 16 that is a coaxial connector for the wifi antennas, extensions for these are actually easy to find. The name of the connector is the Hirose U.FL (or simply U.FL).

Hi Deck, When I encounter this, I usually assume the part is defective and see if the problem persists on another screen. In testing I have figured it is the driver IC on the screen assembly, replacing it with a known working one fixed the issue. Unfortunately this is a advanced repair, and you would need a donor screen (maybe your old one?) Good luck!