Answer provided above by the poster. (Not sure ifixit is set up to work well with this form of offering of an answer for an otherwise yet-to-be proposed question. I would ask a friend to post the question and provide the answer in response to that, if this doesn’t suffice.)

I found it quite easy to remove by twisting it, almost as if designed to be done so. If it is not designed that way, then at the very least the hard rubber flange extending above and below the connector will naturally force the connector to move forward or back if twisted in the rectangular slot where it resides. This same physical feature made it somewhat more difficult to push back into the fully-assembled slot, but I found that starting at enough of an angle that allowed the hard rubber flange to bend backward, and then twisting into the proper orientation as you push inward, the result was a complete and solid connection.

If it is shutting down after a moment following manual replug, and staying off.. try hardwiring the fan or otherwise adjusting the cooling. If windows shows it repeatedly connecting and disconnecting on its own, try this solution I found years ago when I first started using Kinect v2 on PC: reg add HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Processor /v Capabilities /t REG_DWORD /d 0x7e060 I don’t recall where I found that exactly, but I saved it in my general scripts folder as “IntelPowersave(ReDisKinecting).bat” (my shorthand for Kinect disconnecting and reconnecting)

Not sure if this can help you, but the cable is a USB 3.0 cable with two additional pins, I assume for additional power. The ‘B’ end of the cable attaching to the sensor accomodates a standard USB 3.0 ‘B’ connector directly, but leaves the two additional pins on either side of it unconnected. The ‘A’ end of the cable is obviously, then, also non-standard, but in this case it is not physically compatible with a standard USB-A port. read: assumptions If you need the adapter cable for a newer Xbox or for PC (I believe they are one in the same) search for that specifically, as there is no other solution as far as I am aware. If you need to repair the proprietary cable attached to the sensor itself, then I would search ebay’s damaged device auctions. (or be adventerous with a custom solution using the info above, if willing :D)