Duane Donaldson

Look around this guys channel and his friends channels. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Kz01P...-xoDnqsiuwTn5og

Since your seat is all the way back and we must assume that your steering column is not adjustable or telescoping, any modification you do to the rails will void any insurance claim in case of accidental death to a driver. Contact the dealer for a set of OEM rails for tall people, that is the only legal option I can think of. Are you sure the seat is moving all the way back? Have you pulled up the carpet to see if there is another set of mount holes in the floor?

Imagine your oil is acting as a seal to seal your piston rings to your cylinder wall gap. Once oil starts to get gas mixed in with it, it looses viscosity and becomes very thin like water and allows more gas in at an exponential rate. This normally happens on vehicles with poor oil change history. Engines running rich with way too much fuel in the cylinders will also act in this fashion as mentioned in the comments above along with piston rings and cylinder wall damage causing low compression where fresh oil will not be enough to seal up the gap. Figuring out if there is an over fuel condition or a worn out cylinder condition is your next step, performing a compression test with gas in the oil will not prove out a weak cylinder, do a wet cylinder compression test by putting some fresh oil in the spark plug hole and see if it will help seal the gap from the top and disable the fuel from entering the engine completely.

Very nice troubleshooting based on the block diagram. I would say that if it seems to ice up sooner than expected that the Freon is getting lower as this is a visual symptom to “Low on gas”. I would also say that the fan kicks off due to the low temperature due to the icing and the heat exchanger does not need cooling off by the fan. I also would guess that your relay is stuck closed but a good smack on the head should rattle its brain to let loose and shut down as expected for additional troubleshooting, give it a good rap. Icing due to low gas or very high humidity and also give it a good cleaning as dust will help condense water that will not drain off like normal, the dust will attract the water and it will freeze due to low fan air flow being blocked by the dust again. Then due to your constant compressor running will cause the temp to drop as well. So we will assume the overtemp switch is working as the compressor is shutting down when overheating, this will override the stuck power relay.

Can you pls explain how you get spark on pos and neg of coil pack. I think you are trying to say that you got a pulse on your test light?? If you do the test at night time its easier to see the test light pulse, this means that the ignition module is pulsing, if there is no spark to the spark plugs then the coil is bad. If you replaced the coil and still no spark to the spark plugs then you put in a BAD new part or you have another problem, maybe the ignition module is pulsing but does not have enough power output?? You need to verify fuel pressure/delivery and timing set up if it jumped or not, a compression test will show this also if you have low compression. If you need help with these tests please let us know. Can you post pics of your fuel filter, distributor with the cap off and any other items that may help, if you don’t know how to post pics here, pls post links, thanks.

Main seal, is that the crankshaft seal in the timing cover? You may have bolts going through the block into an oil passage, the valve cover gaskets, a cracked timing cover, oil pump oring and others. First step is to clean everything very well, take for test drive and inspect for leaks, may leak immedietly or take many miles, you will see how far you need to drive to see a leak meaning you may need to clean it again and drive a shorter distance next time if bad leak. It may not be coming from the timing cover??

Still seems like air in the heater core, very hard to get out. Can you access the 2 heater hoses going into the firewall, one is in and one is out, what I do is locate the out hose, figure out where the heater core metal pipe ends inside the rubber hose and where the clamp seals the hose, pull the hose past this point without totally removing it, drill a small hole in the metal pipe on top to bleed the air out when at higher engine speed but in Park, while filling the radiator at the same time to keep the water level up. once you feel the core is bled, push the rubber hose on and tighten the clamp, this should do it.

If the gear shifter goes directly into the gearbox through the floor, remove all the components to inspect the plastic or teflon bushing just inside the gearbox that the gear shift pivots on, it may be broken into pieces. If your gear shift goes to some linkages, disconnect them one link away from the transmission and see if you can change gears manually from under the vehicle, this test will check for bad bushings in the linkages one link at a time working your way back to the gear shifter, dont get run over, be super safe please. It may also be possible that the clutch master or slave cylinder is not pushing on the throw out bearing to release the clutch when hot. Check the distance of the slave cylinder travel when cold and when hot. Fluid may be bypassing a soft seal when hot.

you will start at the blower motor itself, hotwire it with power and ground, if that works then work your way backwards in the system, the blower resister is usually next in line and a big problem on many cars. Looking for burned connectors, broken resisters and then tapping on the main control unit and wiggle the wires connected to it may find the problem, if your blower is intermittant, it probably is not a bad fuse but could be a weak connection, a volt meter will do a lot of the troubleshooting for you once you get access to the connectors, lots of information on youtube.

Add an additional ground from the computer to the chassis and see if that fixes your problem.