Today I had to do the procedure again, so the “oil for wrist watches type 2” did a good job for 4 and a half year, ; I did the same again and now it works again.

I want to substitute that it isn't even necessary to remove the big connector from the logic board so it is not necessary to remove any connectors to take the airport extreme out of the housing. You just have to remove the (power plug) the control light and the reset button out of the house in keeping them connected with the logic board.

When I opened it the second time I found that it is not necessary anymore to remove the metal sheet of the logic board. I just losing the bit that screws and there is a rubber profile between at the rim of the metal sheet which now could be pulled out carefully and then it is easy loosen the cable from the fan without unplugging it of the board. When reassembling I just put the cable under the rubber profile.

the WD 40 only lasted six months, this time are used a special “oil for wrist watches type 2”. And I cleaned the pin access with isoproylalcohol before. Let's see how much longer this one lasts.

In case it is a time capsule; this is a guide for the airportExtreme; Again in want to emphasize that there is no need to take out any of these fragile connectors out of the mainboard; U just take out the contol light, the resetbutton an the Power plug out of the housing, keeping them connected with “mainboard” of the router; so there is no risk to break any connectors. If you just clean the fan and oil the axis, the whole inner thing stays as it is an is even functional without the housing; one could even put it into another housing. No risk to ruin anything..

as i wrote it is not necessary at all to remove the reset button connection. neither the connection of the control lights. U just take them out of the housing and they kepp connected to the mainboard. So its also posssible to try the AEBS or Time capsule without the housing.

I found its better to remove the metal shield from the mainboard too . the cable for the fan is sticked and fastened to the metal shield. So u can avoid to pull on the cables which might result in braking the wires. I found that cleaning the fan is not enough.. (holds only 24 hours.. one must open the fan.. (there are descriptions on Youtube and somewhere her also cited .

What is unclear to me .. which lubricant is best which means which sort holds longest! (for years?) Its not advisable to open the fan to often because plastic clamps break easily!

WD 40 is said to hold more than 6 Months (which is too short in my opinion)

No idea if

lubricant silicone-spray( silicone applied by a cotton tip) .. does not harm plastic and rubber.

Graphit (dry or with grease? can u just use a soft pencil to apply to the metal shaft? ore take the Graphit powder used for door locks?

Teflon-(spray) (applied by a cotton tip)

special oil for wrist watches .. mechanical robustness

will last longer?

I found it easier to remove only the big clip(careful! nearly half of it remain on the keyboard ) I succeeded best in lifting the tiny litte “noses(<1mm!) first left an right alternating then the plug comes out slowly (little bitt left .. little bit right)

2Then to remove the circuit plug of the housing:

After this its easy to take the black metal plate out by sliding it out under the crossing cables.

3removing the Resetbutton from the housing: no need to remove the plug from the “mainboard”

4 removing the control light from the housing: no need to remove the plug from the “mainboard”