> I can't find that same one no place Soundbaster changes their model-names constantly to push "NEW!" products to market. Desktop PCs are semi-standardized and the GW 500XL is nothing special. The only odd thing about that specific soundcard is "With IEEE 1394". That means "FireWire". Nothing much to do with sound. Often used on older video cameras. Many newer popular-price video-cams use USB. I'd say, get a USB sound-thing and plug it in. While I have worked inside PCs for decades, and have been very fussy about soundcards, I have also used USB sound and been very happy. With the sound, and with the no-fuss no-risk installation. Mostly, you plug it in, Windows ding-dongs (well, maybe not if your sound is dead), find the new hardware, and if you don't show it a driver CD/file, installs the basic USB-sound driver which is usually quite fine. The last problem: if you have a sick but not DEAD sound card inside, Windows may default to using it instead of the new USB sound. Start, Settings, Control Panel, Sound...

Disclaimer: I don't know the machine. Looking at pictures: Xbox 360 S Motherboard Replacement It's a tedious disassembly. You get to the drive-works here: Xbox 360 S Motherboard Replacement Sometimes cables get tarnished, just need a wiggle and a stern glare. The drive is standard SATA data+power, the motherboard end of the data appears to be standard SATA but VERY short, and the power side runs off as 4 yellow wires to a propietary plug. The optic-drive cables are readily available but does not use quite the same connector. The length and the non-standard power end mean you should be looking for a part made FOR this machine and for the hard-drive. However I'm not seeing any for sale. Good luck.

> does not work Does it try to run? Whirr? Klunk? Or totally silent? There is a 20A fuse (#15) for the windows, but also a 7.5A fuse #13 for the "multiplex" brain. I'd think a dead multiplex would cause many troubles, but check it anyway. The switches, relays, and multiplex brain are all-in-one. The factory diagnostic is many pages of tedious tests, and the end result is replace-the-unit. So check the motor. See attached image from the manual. If you can hot-wire the into working, but not via the switches, replace the whole door-module. A good auto salvage operation should have these. This is from the 4cyl 2002 Accord. The V-6 model is different in many ways. You'd think they'd use the same window-motor?

Does it work? Does the orange charge-indicator light come on? What does the fine-print on the power adapter say? Many (but NOT all) modern small power-blocks are "100V-250V".... they eat any wall-voltage in the world. Owner's Manual is here (Nintendo company site; 4MB PDF). It does say "120 volt".

> is a 15 watt radioshack soldering iron good enough Ugh. It can work. You NEED to practice on some scrap before you globber your iPhone. What's in your cellar? Old VCR? Dead cordless phone? Anything electronic and useless that can be opened-up without much fuss. Be SURE it has not been plugged-in for days. (Do NOT use a TV set; these can hold a charge for weeks.) Open up, expose the PCB (printed circuit board), find some wires to un-solder and re-solder. If the wires are not soldered, cut any wire, strip the end, and solder into any handy PCB hole. Have a damp rag. Have a discarded heat-proof candy-dish or large ashtray for the iron. (The bent-wire "holder" is silly and unsafe.) Warm up the iron. After a minute you smell the factory oil-trace. Wipe the very tip with the damp rag, quickly. Do it again in another minute. When the damp rag sizzles, poke the very tip of the iron with the end of the solder. It will be another minute before solder melts, but you MUST get solder on the iron before the hot tip...

I was just under the dash of my '91 K2500 and scavenged a column from an '88 van. Your rig is similar. Slight looseness "could" be the tilt-wheel wearing-out, as Rob says. This makes the truck very hard to control, Or if a very heavy-handed driver has been straining against the wheel, the plastic bushings may have been smooshed. If only slightly smooshed, no big deal; but if too-smooshed the thin part can buckle, fold-back, and wedge the shaft solid... very bad. Where steering column meets plastic dash, there is a panel 10" wide. 2 screws in bottom, un-hook from top. There is a V-shape bracket under the column. There are 4 screws run slant-ways through the V into the column. There are two screws straight up through the bracket ears into the dash framework. Any of these could be loose. Or broken. But you have to ask "why??" The factory puts them in pretty tight. They are very strong. Has the steering column been worked on? Most under-dash repairs can be done without taking the column out. Has the truck been...

There is a switch. I think on most C/K 1500/2500 it is on the brake pedal arm or the arm hits it. It is $5-$10; you might take ALL your truck data to the auto parts store, buy a new switch, then look for the same thing around the brake arm or under the hood. There's a fuse. Find the fusebox and look for "brake". The Owner's Manual may have clues. Fuses usually blow for a reason. Some bulb-faults can blow a fuse. Change the brake lamp bulbs; on a vehicle this old it is time to do that. Open tailgate, there's two (rusted) Phillips screws into the taillight lens. Unscrew, the lens un-hooks on the other side. Flat rubbery thing with connector and 3 lumps. Unhook connector latch and carefully pull out. Use 1/4 nutdriver to remove 2 screws in rubbery thing. Three bulbs: they just pull out but won't want to come easy. IIRC bottom is backup and the top one is brake. Look at the wires, because if it is not switch and not a bulb-fault, then as TBAS says it is probably wires, pinched or broken, from tail to switch to...