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As Jayeff pointed out, you don’t list a model number so a detailed response is not possible for you specifically. However, there are a number of common failures that can account for what you see: As these units age, the lubrication of the spindle can get “sticky” and it is possible that this is contributing to the problem. There are 2 main types of designs used for turning the platter, 1) Rubber belt or idler and 2) direct motor drive. In your case, I would suspect that your unit uses a belt. Older units used rubber rings on hubs (idlers), but those were replaced by belted designs many years ago. The Technics units that I have seen have been belt driven or direct drive. As the belt ages, it can either get stiff and slippery or get to the point where it is just goo. In your case I suspect that the belt is a bit stretched and getting slippery. Combine that with the lubrication getting sticky too and you will get inconsistent turning of the platter as you are seeing. This unit needs a little TLC. Remove the...

The most common reason for this is incorrect placement within the existing slots. This is most often seen with either the number of sticks is less than slots or there is a mix of stick densities. Be sure that the memory stick(s) are in the correct slots. As an example, lets assume that there are 4 slots. These are usually bank 0 and bank 1 in the following pattern: 0 1 0 1. If you place 2 sticks in the first 2 slots there will be a stick in bank 0 and another in bank 1. Some motherboards like this, some require the backs to be filled. In other words the two sticks should be in slot 0 and 2 to fill in bank 0. Check the motherboard to be sure that the sticks are placed correctly. There are other potential problems, but start as listed above and report back the results.

This is a relatively common problem and will require some dis-assembly of the camera to resolve. This is not a repair that I would recommend a homeowner attempt. Yes the tape can be saved without damage. There are a number of “safeties” built in to the mechanism to prevent potential damage to the tape and this is what is causing the current problem. The camera is detecting a problem that could potentially cause the tape to be damaged. The most common being that the camera is not detecting tape movement (rewind operation to put the tape back into the cartridge during an unload) so that it thinks that the tape is still loaded and won’t release the carrier. Locate a service shop that works on camcorders to get this fixed. Expect a labor bill in the $125-$150 range. (charge by the screw and there are many… :) ) Dan

The pressure inside the home is usually in the range of 50PSI. Based upon your description, you are correct that the source of the leak is likely to be the rubber grommets and not the valve itself. You are exceeding the plumbing code which limits the pressure to 80.PSI This should be addressed asap. You can try the adjustment screw on the PRV itself to see if it can be released. I believe that once the PRV is replaced, your problem will also go away. Dan

This projector looks like it has only a VGA input which will require that you have an adapter that converts the signal from HDMI to VGA. I have used this technique many times for other projectors without fail. You must split the audio from the HDMI if you need to send that elsewhere as well.

Have you changed all of the belts yet with new ones? I would suspect that there is a slipping belt that has not allowed the mechanism to get to a known position. Change all of the belts following the service manual to route them correctly and try again. Report here your results. I doubt that the part is broken (although there is a slight possibility). I believe that the mechanism is “out of timing” and just needs to get back in sync. If the new belts fail to resolve this, update this note and I’ll investigate further. Dan

This is a clip that is the “nut” for one of the cabinet screws. Look at the locations of all the screws and look for the corresponding “nut”. You will find one missing. Dan

Until you resolve the protect mode, the amp will continue to work as you see it. Protect usually indicates that there is a short in the output section and the amp shuts down to prevent further damage. Since this amp uses discrete transistors for outputs, check each one for a short. Once found, change the entire pair (2SD and 2SC transistors) and any other components in the area that are effected. Dan

The tolerance for timing of an ethernet connection is not so tight as to be effected by this small variation. Your cable will work just fine with a new connector. Note that the tab is there to secure the plug only. If there is sufficient support close to the connection such that the connector can not “fall out”, you don’t need to replace the connector at all. Tie-wrap it to another cable next to it and you should be ok as long as there is no stress on the cable without the locking tab. Dan

Yes this can be repaired, but not easily unless you have experience. The pads must be repaired before the connector is reattached. Also, there will need to be additional support for the connector otherwise it will easily be torn off again. This is not a repair that should be attempted without prior experience. Contact a local repair show and bring along the connector and the board (in a static bag). Dan

For non-phone repairs similar methodologies apply. The difference is the cost of the parts. In my business, I have been repairing audio and video devices for over 30 years. I stock all of the common transistors, capacitors and resistors which probably cost me over $500 initially, but saves customers’ time and me space since I can usually provide a quick turn-around time on repairs. Storing component parts takes a lot less room than receivers or cameras. For the model specific parts, I generally order 2. This takes care of the existing repair and allows for another repair with no wait time.

Dan