If you have a boot disc with the machine, try using that to boot it and then go from there. It probably can't find a boot section because you swapped the hard drive.

Try turning it off for 5 minutes and then turn it back on. This should generate an error code if there is one. Your symptoms sound like a problem in the control box. If the heating function works on any setting at all, that indicates a failure in the control box because it is the control box that directs heating when a particular function is selected. There is usually some combination of keys that will do a reset of the micro-controller. When the micro-controller makes an error you will get some strange combination of failures. Unplugging the machine and waiting a few seconds before plugging it in again will probably cause it to do a reset. There is an outside chance this may have some effect on your problem.

The battery hitting the pavement make me believe the battery is damaged. The motor drivers aren't getting enough current to switch properly. Could that beep be low battery warning?

Veronica, I assume that pump runs all of the time during the wash cycle to filter the water during the wash. Does the flow of water through the filter seem like the normal amount? You say you found nothing when you took it apart but did you notice any drag on the bearing? Any motor with a defect in the winding, such as a shorted turn on the winding, would heat up. If you have a clean impeller on the pump and no drag on the bearing, I would say, yes the motor is probably bad.

Chris, here is the problem with that propeller always running. The motor is driven by what is called a pulse width modulated circuit which simply switches the power on and off, varying the on-time to control speed. The switching drivers are configured in a circuit called an H-bridge. These are basically just transistors of a certain type that switch fast and consume little power on their own, which are arranged to direct the current in the correct amount and direction for each motor. Here is the bad news. The only way a motor connected to this type of H-bridge can run without being driven by it's intended circuit, is if the transistors are shorted. They could possibly short out if the motor was stalled for a time and the power was still being switched to the motor through the H-bridge. The motor in this case would draw more current than the transistors in the bridge could handle. The switching absolutely has to occur normally for the motor to possibly run under control. Your drone has a circuit board which...

I can't be very specific but in general, this symptom usually points to a problem with the transmission, or if you have a straight shift, it probably means the clutch is slipping. On automatic transmissions, the shifting is often done by hydraulic pressure based on engine speed. If the system fails, it may require high engine speed to shift to the next gear or it may not shift to the next gear at all.

Sounds like the third brake light is shorted to the left brake/turn light. Try removing the bulb in the third brake light and see what effect that has. If your directional lights and brake lights work normally then, I think that short is the problem. The short could occur in the switching system itself or in the wiring to the lamps. Sometimes these circuits are load sensitive, meaning if a circuit is intended to operate one lamp and it tries to do more or less, it probably will produce some odd symptoms. The switching occurs at the directional turn signal lever location and your brake switch. I hope this gives you some leads.

Ryan, I think I know what your problem is. On the larger riding mower engines, there is a compression release built into the engine. Basically it is there to hold the exhaust valve open when the engine is not running. Sometimes this device fails and the valve is left closed. The starter is not strong enough to overcome the compression caused by the closed valve. You may hear a partial turn of the engine and then it won't turn over. So...what to do? Remove the air cleaner so you have full access to the air intake to the carburetor. Put on a leather glove and put it tight over the air intake on the carburetor and keep it there while someone else cranks the engine using the starter normally. The engine should turn over easily and will probably start. BE CAREFUL IN CASE IT BACKFIRES THROUGH THE CARBURETOR. It could burn you. What you are doing is, you are not allowing any air into the cylinder so there is none to compress! Therefore it will turn over right through the compression cycle without releasing the...

Just wanted to point out that for a 240 volt dryer circuit there are actually two breakers in the panel, one for each 120 volt side of the AC line. Sometimes each one of the two breakers can be removed and replaced separately, sometimes not. I've seen cases where just one would go bad leaving you with some pretty confusing symptoms. It works like this. It requires both sides of the power circuit (using two breakers) to supply power to the heater. But it takes only one side of the line (one of the two fuses) to run the motor etc.. Therefore, if the side which breaks the the motor circuit fails, the heater will quit as well because it needs both sides. But if the other breaker fails, only the heater will fail because only it needs both breakers working while the motor will run just fine on the other one, whatever fuse that is. The important point here is, that if you have breaker problems, both of them should be replaced even if one still works. This will avoid future symptoms as described above. Roger did...

This is a long shot but if the timer sequence gets out-of-sequence up because of computer, switch, or motor, problems, the machine may be trying to spin with some water still in it. As soon as it starts spinning stop it and look for water inside the tub. If there is, this is a clue that the drain/spin cycle is not timed correctly. Usually some kind of control panel failure. Also if the water pump fails or plugs up, it may not drain correctly and then start spinning with water in it. These things are worth checking as it may help the technical department zero in on the problem and fix it for something less than the national debt.