Beware. The edge of the bezel, opposite these screws, has clips. Lift the bezel from the top edge, where the the screws are, to avoid breaking these clips.

There are spring steel tabs on both sides.

If the drive shield needs a little extra persuasion, us a spudger around its perimeter. Also helps prevent cuts when force meets resistance on this metal shield.

Good tip. Having, in the past, broken pieces that required a little persuasion, I attempted to "lift" the outer case, but it wouldn't budge. Using the spudger to persuade it worked like a charm. Also added this suggestion to Step 18 "Lift the drive shield."

The bezel is the flat black plate. Removing the three screws that secure it allows you to remove it. If your cube is like mine, this plate likes where it lives and, even with the screws removed, managed to stay in situ without anything holding it.

My small tool kit bit for this size screw is too tapered, so I used my trusty little iFixit screwdriver. Problem is the screwdriver doesn’t provide enough grip area to remove this tenacious screw without stripping it. The screwdriver does have a hex at the end of the handle, which is 9/32” inch. Get a socket and handle, or even a 1/4” ratchet handle and you’ll have an easier time removing it.

The latches referred to are on the able connection block. The blocks are white, the latches are grey. Push the sides of the grey latches with any small flat screw driver or spudger.

While a little bit dangerous, I used an Exacto knife to cut through the adhesive. A slight rocking motion does the trick. Just be sure you don’t have a body parts between the knife edge and the hard surface you’re using to steady the mouse.