Inleiding
Follow this guide to remove or replace the Screen on your iPad Air 4.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
The iopener didn't work for me at all. I tried many times, and the screen wouldn't budge at all.
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Camera module and ambient light sensors
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Display cables
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Screen magnets
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Display edges
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the top left edge of the screen.
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Pull up on the suction handle with firm, constant pressure to create a gap just small enough to insert an opening pick.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Insert a new opening pick in the gap you just created.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the bottom right corner and slide along the right edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following marked areas:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the screen magnets.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the display and digitizer cables.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a new opening pick in the top right corner and slide along the top edge to separate the adhesive. Make sure to note the following:
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 5 mm or you'll damage the display edges.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 3 mm or you'll damage the ambient light sensors.
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Don't insert an opening pick more than 2 mm or you'll damage the front camera module.
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Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Grip the left edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:FixMat$36.95
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Achtung! Die kleinen Kontakte sind sehr empfindlich und brechen leicht, wenn sie seitlich gebogen werden.
Beachte das unbedingt bei Schritt 18! -
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Cut two 6 mm wide strips from a playing card or cardstock to use as a battery blocker.
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Insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector until they stop.
ACHTUNG: Bewege die Streifen niemals seitwärts! Die kleineren Kontakt können dabei leicht abbrechen und dann hast Du ein größeres Problem.
Der Teil ist besonders tricky - mit der Spielkarte habe ich es nicht geschafft, sondern mit dem Teil einer Plastikabdeckung, das ich (etwas schmaler als 6mm geschnitten) per Pinzette eingeschoben habe.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display and digitizer cable brackets to the logic board:
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Two 1.1 mm screws
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One 1.5 mm screw
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Gereedschap gebruikt in deze stap:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers or your fingers to pivot the latch out from the top and remove the bracket.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the digitizer cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Air 4 answers community for help.
Annuleren: ik heb deze handleiding niet afgemaakt.
23 andere personen hebben deze handleiding voltooid.
14 opmerkingen
Does anyone know if the screen is paired to the device? As in if I replace the screen will I still have true tone?
With transfering the assembly, called "Induction", which is placing on the top of the display, from your used iPad, Face ID and True Tone will work properly WITHOUT reprogramming them, that's because True Tone of the iPad isn't paired to them, not as iPhone's.
Thank you for your answer. So basically I don't need to transfer any parts from the old screen to the new screen in order to keep the full features.
iPad Air 4 won't charge after screen replacement (screen from iFixit).⏎
No message, no indication on why it doesn't.
Screen and touch work fine.⏎
Any ideas?
Siri said the battery is "at 100%", but the on screen indicator shows empty and the device powers down almost immediately.
No charge indication on screen...
One more thought: I had the battery blocker inserted for 4 days waiting for the adhesive tape to arrive.
After opening it agein I found that one of the smaller battery contacts was broken, probably happened when inserting the battery blocker strips.
So be adviced:
****** ***NEVER move the battery blocker sideways, not even a bit!!!****** It will easily break your battery contacs!!! *********
same problem here, did you fix it?
This was a difficult repair with a severely cracked screen, but after a ton of patience and time picking away and the cracked bits, I was able to remove the old screen and replace with the new. I wasn’t able to disconnect the battery as suggested, but I was careful in how I handled the open iPad Air. Having the right tools for the job was a big help too. I purchased the iOpener and Anti-Clamp after failed attempts with a heating bag (one filled with beans) and a hair dryer. I had other suction devices which helped too, but was limited by the cracker screen, even after covering it in tape. Thanks for the detailed walk through!
iPad Air 4 won't charge after screen replacement (screen from iFixit).
No message, no indication on why it doesn't.
Screen and touch work fine.
Any ideas?
I opened the iPad again and found that one of the smaller battery contacts broke, probably when inserting the battery blocker strips.
Let's see if I can solder on something to replace it - everything is VERY small in there. I just hope that I won't need a replacement device now...
So be adviced:
****** NEVER move the battery blocker sideways, not even a bit!!!*** It will easily break your battery contacs!!! *********
Workaround: Charge the iPad via Magic Keyboard für iPad 11" (USB-C Charging Pass-Through feature)
Pixel -
Successful repair! The worst part was getting a severely cracked screen off. The anti-clamp didn't help a bit due to the severe cracking, but a hair dryer, suction cup, and a lot of patience did it in the end. (Start with largest piece of intact glass on the left and then work your way around to the right side; the instructions seem to be written as if you want to save the screen.) The next worst part was the battery blocker (takes a lot of force to separate the battery contact, even after removing the screw). Having the iOpener tool kit made things a lot easier. About a four hour repair from opening the kit to cleaning up afterwards, and having pre-discharged the battery before starting the repair.