Inleiding
Removing the display on a Late 2013 iMac requires cutting through the adhesive around the perimeter of the screen. After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place, so you'll need to apply a new set of adhesive strips.
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If you are re-using your existing display, you must also remove the old adhesive from the back of the display.
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Peel off the adhesive strips using tweezers or your fingers. Start at the bottom and peel upward towards the top of the device.
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After all the old adhesive is removed, carefully clean the surface with 90% (or greater) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction, not back and forth.
The black border on the back of the screen glass appears to be painted on. When removing the foam adhesive, be careful with tools as it can scratch off the paint and that will show through when all is back together. Fingernails worked best for me; peeling the tape up slowly followed by the alcohol wipe.
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Lay out the adhesives strips beforehand so you won't accidentally install a strip in the wrong place:
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Strip 22 on the top left
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Strip 23 on the top right
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Strip 21 on the right vertical
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Strip 25 on the bottom right, dark side facing up.
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Strip 26 on the bottom left, dark side facing up
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Strip 16 on the left vertical
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Start with strip 21, which goes on the right vertical edge of the iMac frame.
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Peel the short piece of backing off the back of the strip.
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With the spudger still poking through the hole in the adhesive strip, push the spudger tip into the corresponding hole in the frame of the iMac.
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Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pull down against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame.
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Work your way counter-clockwise around the perimeter of the iMac, adding three more adhesive strips in the same manner:
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Strip 23 on the top right
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Strip 22 on the top left
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Strip 16 on the vertical left
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On the iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display, the top-right strip's blue tabs will not line up with the top antenna in the same way as the non-5K model. This is perfectly acceptable and won't impact the performance of the strips or antenna.
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Grasp the red pull tab on strip 25 and pull to separate about 2 inches (5 cm) of white backing from the strip.
These steps instruct you to install the lower strips to the iMac frame first, as that is what Apple instructs their techs to do. If you have an iMac without a microphone hole, you can choose to install the lower strips onto the display first. Peel the blue tab instead of the red to expose the adhesive. Carefully place the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display. The L-bend on the adhesive should match the display contours.
My EMC No. 2546 did not have a microphone hole, so I was confused at first. A different instructional video (https://vimeo.com/139364064) recommends placing the strips on the display instead. I installed the strips on the frame, but I reckon installation on the display glass might have been a better option, at least with no microphone hole to contend with.
Yep, no microphone hole on the late 2012 27” iMac. I followed the video but I don’t think it made anything easier.
Maybe my mistake was putting the screen back on when the frame was lying down. I was left with a mm gap on one side due to misalignment. Stand up the mac so the screen can sit on the lip and be aligned properly.
Daniel -
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Align the adhesive strip to the bottom edge by positioning the microphone notch over the microphone hole.
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If your iMac does not have a microphone hole, align the right end of the strip such that the L-bend sits next to the right vertical adhesive. The L-bend should not overlap the right vertical adhesive.
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Once you have aligned the strip, carefully set the left exposed edge onto the iMac to secure the alignment.
Can anyone confirm that the mic is the middle small hole as the photo in step 14 appears to show a larger hole? I ask as I don’t have the mic kit and will have to cut the kit to suit my late 2015 iMac 27 retina. Thanks.
Good catch!! Yes, the mic hole is the small center hole. The step image is showing the wrong hole. I’ll upload the correct photo shortly.
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Repeat the previous steps for the bottom left adhesive strip (strip 26), aligning and placing it along the bottom left edge of the iMac.
This strip is adjacent to the power supply of the iMac. Take care not to touch any part of the power supply module during this step.
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Gently set the display in place over the iMac and align it carefully.
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Use painter's tape or masking tape to temporarily secure the bottom edge of the display to the iMac's enclosure.
I used 2” painter’s tape to hold the display in place, but did it a little differently. With the wedge holding the iMac at an angle, I laid the display in place and felt on the sides to make sure it was centered. Then I put small strips (4-5” long) all along the sides and top, wrapping the tape around to the back of the display to hold it in place. Then tested my repair to make sure everything worked.
I had seen some comments about problems with the strips holding in place over time, so I didn’t actually install them. Instead, I’ve left the painter’s tape on mine. I’m a week or more in, and so far there’s no sign of failure to hold. I’m going to leave it this way until I decide whether or not to replace the blade and hard drive with an SSD. I find I don’t even notice the painter’s tape as I’m using my iMac.
Paul- If you haven’t made the move to SSD yet, i suggest you replace the SATA 3.5” HDD with a 2.5” SSD, and leave the blade SSD already installed in place. You can create a new Fusion Drive with the SATA SSD & stock blade SSD. This allows you to still take advantage of the blade SSD for extra RAM.
I just did this myself on my Late 2015 iMac 5K with the 2TB Fusion Drive. I swapped the dinosaur HDD for a 4TB Samsung 870 QVO 2.5” SATA SSD and my computer feels like new! better than new!
I don’t recommend replacing the blade SSD because it’s a lot more complicated and you run a real risk of damaging the logic board.
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If you've already verified that your iMac is working correctly and are ready to seal it up, skip to step 22.
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Gently insert the display data connector into its socket on the logic board. Be sure to press it straight into the socket, and insert it completely.
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Flip the display data connector lock down onto the socket.
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Insert the display power connector into its socket on the logic board.
After I completed this repair I noticed that the fan was spinning all the time. What is going on?
If the fan is going constantly the thermal (temperature) sensor is likely not attached to the hard drive. It should be okay to run it like this - but it’s loud… Better to have the thermal sensor attached and configured. I bought my kit from iFixit and the sensor was wrapped in some of the paper packaging - took me a few minutes to find it.
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After confirming that your iMac functions properly, disconnect the display cables and carefully lean the display forward.
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Remove the film from the two bottom strips by reaching in from above with a pair of tweezers and pulling the blue tabs straight up from the bottom edge of the display.
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To ensure a strong bond, carefully tip the iMac flat on its back (with the screen facing straight up) and press carefully but firmly around all four edges of the display.
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Remove the tape securing the display to the rear enclosure.
Before lowering the glass display, I would recommend removing the tape from the edges, in order to check that the glass is seated flush against the bottom shelf of the frame. In my case, the glass got slightly out of alignment with all the lifting and lowering of the display, and I ended up with one corner being about 1 mm above the frame ledge. Not a huge error, but regrettable, as once you start to lower the display with all adhesive exposed, there is no turning back!
Has anyone had the display fall out after a few days of use when the machine warms up and the adhesive softens?
How do we prevent that from happening?
Is it just my imagination or are the replacement adhesive strips thinner than the Apple originals? After cutting the original adhesive we are left with a thin layer on the frame AND a thin layer on the back of the front glass. To me it feels like the replacement tape is only as thick as one of these layers, so there’s less flex to take up any minor variations in level and ultimately a weaker join.
I also have no idea if the replacement adhesive retains its grab strength once the machine warms up in use.
I'm an (unauthorized) Apple computer tech and have replaced over 24 displays on 21.5 and 27" iMacs. The only time I had a display fall off was when I tried using GooGone to remove the adhesive residue. It leaves a greasy residue that is hard to remove and will prevent proper adhesion of the replacement strips. My customer found that her 27" display had fallen off TWICE (both times it miraculously ended up on their office chair with no damage). I now use 91% IPA and the flat edge of a new spudger tool to remove residue. Never had a problem since.[br]
I've used several different makes of strips purchased via amazon and they all work fine.
Corey, could I ask you a question? Have you successfully removed a display after it has been attached using the aftermarket adhesive strips? I didn't have a problem removing the original display adhesive, but when I decided to reopen my iMac to upgrade the SSD, I had a very difficult time, which ended up breaking the screen...Thanks very much
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Is there any reason to believe that Apple would deny any warranty repairs due to these adhesive strips not being identical to Apple's? I'd like to open and clean my iMac before taking it in to have the display replaced under warranty, but the vibes I'm getting from Apple support suggest that Apple may deny me service if the adhesive strips 'show any signs of tampering', i.e., being replaced for any reason. This sounds silly to me, as it doesn't void Apple's warranty to upgrade my hard drive.
<<<crickets>>>
Unfortunately, these strips are not even close to the original ones. Has anyone tried to reopen the iMac with these strips in place? A real pain… The original one must have a sort of foam in-between so that one can cut through with the ifixit wheel or a knife. After that, it is easy to remove the adhesive swipes on both sides. Trying to reopen an iMac with the iFixit strips in place is really hard and impossible with the iFixit wheel. Sad…
True ! Same goes with OWC’s strips : no foam.
The only way to reopen the iMac should it be needed, is to use razor blades…
José -
Clear tuto, I did it on several IMac, the first time was a discovery… than it became easier on the following, as usual the best is to take your time and follow the instructions which are very clear
Is there anything better than these self-adhesive strips?
They don’t seem as thick as the original adhesive and not as strong. As the adhesive weakens when warm, I’ve had a screen come loose within a few days of use. Luckily the user was in front of it to catch it, else we could have been looking at a very expensive repair.
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