Here is a DualShock 4 controller that had a drift to both analog joysticks. Fairly straight forward replacement of the joysticks resolved the issue.

  1. Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.
    • Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.

    • Do not forcefully loosen the screws, as it will amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

    Voeg opmerking toe

  2. Beginning with the left handle:
    • Beginning with the left handle:

      • Pinch the left handle of the controller to introduce an opening.

      • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.

      • Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.

    • Repeat these steps for the right handle.

    Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

    foxhoundunit89 - Antwoord

    Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

    I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

    Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

    Michael Whang - Antwoord

    couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

    kimsballs -

    Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

    Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

    You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

    When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

    If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

    Simon -

    if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

    meaningless -

    • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:

      • Share button

      • Options button

    • Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.

    • Three small pieces are often released from the framework. To prevent loss, maintain a controlled work field.

      • 2 Trigger Springs

      • 1 Grey Reset Button Extension

    You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

    dzturbd - Antwoord

    SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

    ScootsMcgoots -

    I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

    miamiman77 - Antwoord

    Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

    tcbrekke -

    You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

    Ron Smith - Antwoord

    I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

    Rachel - Antwoord

    My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

    The5HD -

    I had an extra part, and it wasn’t gray. Thank goodness for the picture of the black one. It’s rubbery. The small end should be inserted down towards the gold colored spot. It’s next to the word RESET on the mobo.

    J Coyote - Antwoord

    When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.

    To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.

    Jeff Human - Antwoord

    Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.

    James Goldie -

    Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.

    VauWeh -

    • Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by pulling it straight out with your fingers.

      • Note the orientation of the cable and make sure it faces the right way when you reconnect it.

    • After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.

    can you share the battery dimension?

    luxusmirajane - Antwoord

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    • Using the blunt forceps, remove the battery plug by gently rocking the forceps side-by-side to loosen the plug.

    • After removal of the plug from the motherboard, the battery can be lifted off of the controller.

    • Hasty removal of the battery plug could warp the plastic grips of the plug.

    For the replacement battery I found that the Turnigy 2000mAh 1S 1C Lipo w/ 2 Pin JST-PH worked perfectly while also being a budget option at only $2.54 USD before shipping. However ONLY INSTALL AFTER CHANGING THE POLARITY OF THE CONNECTOR, this can be done with a pin or craft knife with relative ease. After doing this the controller has doubled in battery life. It required no modification to the controllers internals only extra care to ensure the longer cables didn’t get pinched in reassembly.

    Ryan - Antwoord

    • Remove the single 6.0 mm Phillips screw found below the battery retainer with the Phillips #00 Screwdriver.

    • Do not forcefully loosen the screw, as it may amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

    Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?

    TheTechnoMan - Antwoord

    • Gently detach the touchpad ribbon connected to the motherboard using the blunt forceps. The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen. During reassembly, to reattach the ribbon, the plastic tray will need to be gently removed from the motherboard and the flip-lock flipped up.

    Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.

    Patrick - Antwoord

    thanks for the advice

    TMC -

    currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?

    swammieslippyslappy -

    So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!

    Frank Theplank - Antwoord

    I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.

    raysmalley -

    You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.

    Flow Von D -

    Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(

    drwhatfunk -

    Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.

    jeninholland02 - Antwoord

    What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.

    Matthew Luna - Antwoord

    • Carefully dislodge the motherboard assembly from the front cover.

      • Vibration motors are loosely attached to the motherboard assembly. Provide support at the two ends to ease the separation.

    • When removing the motherboard assembly, try not to tilt the front cover upside down as the buttons and their covers may fall out.

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Successful disassembly of the controller will result in the following three parts, respectively:

      • Motherboard Assembly

      • Front Cover

      • Rear Cover

    One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.

    meaningless - Antwoord

    • Use a "Helping Hands" or similar tool to hold the circuit board steady for the solder work.

    • These are the solder connections that will need to be desoldered. Since the board is upside down, left will become right.

    • Use a desoldering wick and flux to melt and remove the solder

    Voeg opmerking toe

    • Once all the contacts are desoldered, the old joystick can be removed. This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick.

    • Ensure that the contacts of the replacement joystick are identical to the original.

    • Check that all the holes are cleared of old solder. Hypodermic needles as well as very small drill bits can be used to clear the holes. The molten looking substance on the circuit board is the flux used for the desoldering.

    Hi Im haveing alot of trouble finding a reputable place to buy a replacement analog stick. Can anyone suggest a good place(that ships U.S) that sells a replacement of good quality?

    taron C heath - Antwoord

    • Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board.

    • Solder all the contacts to the board.

    • Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol.

    Voeg opmerking toe


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Swammieslippyslappy, there is no lead in the device, if so the solder would release much easier. Lead Solder goes to liquid at 180-190 Celsius vs lead free at 212-226 Celsius. I would suggest buying a desoldering iron (cheap ones are fine $10-$20 they have the bulb attached for one handed operation) as using a solder wick becomes rather tedious with the smaller parts.

Joseph Van Meter - Antwoord

Would this fix the issue with the L3 button not remaining activated after initiating? (ie. running in call of duty)

Jorge - Antwoord

Very helpful guide!! I've never soldered/desoldered anything before so this was a little difficult for me. I ran into a few problems along the way: my inital soldering iron was 30W and it wasn't melting the solder, so I had to buy a 40W iron and that one did the trick. I also had a rough time using the desoldering wick (the solder didn't seem to suck up into the wick) so I ended up using a combination of a desoldering pump and the wick. I eventually got the piece out and the rest was easy! Thanks again and if anybody needs help with this project feel free to message me and I'll do the best I can to help.

SergeantCorbett - Antwoord

Hi SergeantCorbett,

I don't know if your offer still applies but I'm a soldering virgin and would appreciate any nuggets of wisdom you may have for me!

Thanks a lot


Jake Hogan -

I managed to carry out the stick replacement. Desoldering was definitely the most difficult part.

Whilst I was struggling with the desoldering I accidentally leant my iron on the ribbon connector to the right and managed to melt it. I can not put the ribbon in the connector now.

The joypad works fine but it wont charge now because I can not reconnect the ribbon.

If anyone can give any advice of the pin layout of the connector so I can get it to charge, I would be really grateful. Or if anyone knows where I can source a replacement mainboard I would consider that as an option.

Tony Morris - Antwoord

Hi tony, do them

Cheers Jake

Jake Hogan -

i did all this. had to use a solder pump and a soldering iron to remove the solder, coulding do it with just wick. put everything back together and everything is working now, except my L1 button? I just changed the Left analog. not sure what i did to futz up the L1. been searching the internets and have yet to find what to look for on this.

Albert Schroter - Antwoord

Are you sure the controller will work after that? I'm going to be replacing that thing on my dads 2 controllers and That part of the motherboard that had to be desoldered looks super boiled, burnt and 100% broken. Whoever answers this you need to be 110% sure that the controller will still work after that

jwilson12380 - Antwoord

I should work . The reason it looks burnt is because they probably didn't use water soluble flux. So without the proper solvent chemicals, it left a gross brown residue. It's not actually burnt, just has a gross layer of flux that hasn't be cleaned off.

Connor Crothers -

I had a feeling that this is what I was gonna have to do haha. Thanks for confirming that it would work!

Rylan Lujan - Antwoord

Hi i have 1 problem. .. i changed my left stick, he's working but when i playing games automatically character walking to the left side... what is the problem i bought sticks from aliexpress and i got 2 sticks, so i tryed both of them... and still same problem.

Marius - Antwoord

I bought 2 sticks from ebay(seller: oo_875, ). the seller is related with the first comment ebay seller(you can find that clue from their review comment).

they are selling MALFUNCTION products. I think It is a same problem that Marius mentioned (the previous comment writer).

and I think a 40w soldering tool is not enough for desoldering that(took so long)

So, I failed.

Be careful on buying stuff and good luck to you.

yeonminpark - Antwoord

I had a problem with unmelting solder before. Fixed by sanding and tining the soldering iron.

Laser Bean -

How many watts do you need for soldering iron? 30,40,60?

Dengo - Antwoord

@dengo all the work was done with an inexpensive 30W soldering iron.

oldturkey03 -

Could the heat of the soldering iron damage the joysticks?

Laser Bean - Antwoord

Laser Bean only if you burn the components or traces…….

oldturkey03 -

I did this and now my joystick and my d-pad will go down when pushed but right as I let go it moves up on it's on. Any ideas as to what went wrong?

Chris - Antwoord

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