Inleiding
Follow this guide to replace the button circuit membrane in your DualShock 4 model CUH-ZCT1U controller.
Wat je nodig hebt
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Check the model number on the back of your controller. This guide was written using model CUH-ZCT1U. If you have another model, the guide procedure and replacement parts may differ slightly.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 6.4 mm-long screws securing the rear case.
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Use an opening pick to pry each corner of the L1 button from the front case.
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Remove the button.
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Use your opening pick to pry and remove the R1 button, just as you did for the L1 button.
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Insert your opening pick at a downward angle between the front case and rear case, halfway between the handle and the action buttons.
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Slide your pick toward the handle and pry up to release the first clip.
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Repeat this procedure on the other side of the controller to release the second clip.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the interconnect cable by pulling its blue pull tab straight out of the socket.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and disconnect the head of the battery cable from the motherboard.
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Grab and remove the reset button extension from its recess in the battery bracket.
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Locate the two clips securing the battery bracket to the motherboard.
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Insert the point of your spudger into the opening behind the right bracket clip.
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Depress the clip to disengage it from the motherboard.
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Lift up the right edge of the battery bracket.
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Use the point of your spudger to flip up the locking flap securing the touch pad cable ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to disconnect the cable using its blue pull tab.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 6.4 mm screw securing the motherboard.
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Grab the midframe by its plastic protrusions or the vibration motors and remove it.
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Lift the motherboard and flip it over the bottom of the midframe, leaving the vibration motor cables attached.
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Firmly grip the R2 button and unclip each peg from the midframe.
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Remove the R2 button.
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Unclip the L2 button from the midframe and remove it, making sure not to lose the small spring from the inside peg.
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Lay the midframe face-down and orient the button properly.
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Place the spring over the inside peg with its bent ends facing upward.
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Rest one end of the spring in its channel in the button.
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Place the button over its clips and rest the other end of the spring in its channel in the midframe.
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Press the button's pegs into their clips until they snap into place.
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Grab the upper edge of the R1 and R2 button pad.
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Slide the pad out of its channel in the midframe.
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Use tweezers or the point of a spudger to lift the underside of the R1 and R2 section of the button circuit membrane.
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Slide the membrane over its retaining tab on the midframe.
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Grab each side of the button circuit membrane.
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Feed the middle section of the membrane through its cutout in the midframe.
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Remove the membrane.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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9 opmerkingen
I’ve changed two flex boards from two different sellers, and I keep having a battery drain of about 25mA after i installed them. The battery drain is not present with the original flex board, any ideas?
Ok no, little update. the battery drain is present even if I disconnect the flex board, the touch connector and the led . It’s something on the main board I think, but I can’t figure out what is it. Is there some insulation that I may have lost when changing the flex board the first time?
That sounds really weird. I don’t remember any insulation on this specific model of controller. I don’t have this anymore as it was a repair for a friend and I also hadn’t noticed or measured such a drain.
Devnol -
The only other thing I can think of is a failure on one of the components soldered on the main board, but 20mA in standby condition are VERY high!