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Find repair and more information about the Frigidaire FGHB2868T*, a standalone refrigerator with an automatic defrost feature, launched in 2017. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern FGHB2868T*.

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Model FGHB2868TD2 Ice Maker Not Getting Water

My ice maker quit working and the ice cube tray is empty with no water in it. I can run through the diagnostic tests to get the tray to dump and the thermister is reading 0 degrees. I removed the quick connector on the green water line on the back of the fridge going to the ice maker and ran the test 55 to add water to the ice maker and I do not get any water so I don't think this is just a frozen line. With the green line still disconnected I swapped out the electrical connector on the yellow solenoid for the water dispenser and put it on the green solenoid for the ice maker. When I pushed the lever in front for the water dispenser I then got water out of the green line to the ice maker in the back of the fridge so I think the solenoid is good. I also tested voltage on the green and yellow plugs when pressing the water dispenser lever and got 117VAC. Anyone know where to go from here or what to check next?

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Hi @svreeman

Check if the light switch (Item #14) cabinet parts diagram (part #242060202) is electrically OK.

It controls the power to the ice maker.

By design the ice maker won't function when the door is open. It is the ice maker that controls the operation of the ice maker water inlet solenoid.

The ice maker may not work due to the switch contacts being open circuit when operated e.g. corroded etc.

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Appreciate that information as I had not seen that anywhere before! I checked out the switches on the doors of the fridge. There was a set of yellow wires and a set of purple wires running to each. From what I could tell the yellow must have run the light inside the fridge as I would have to push in both switches to get an open circuit on either side. The purple I believe were for the ice maker, the switches would indicate open circuit when the button was not depressed. I didn't find any issues with the switches but in the process I tripped my GFCI breaker in the house when I thought I was on the voltage setting but was still on resistance. After restarting I could run test 55 and get water to the back of the fridge again so I'm not sure if just the reset did something for me or what but it has been working since. Thanks again for your reply and information!

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@svreeman

My apologies I got it reversed.

The freezer door switch part #14 is the one to check as it has only two wires on it, a black (120V Active wire) and a black/green going to the ice maker.

There are two refrigerator door switches marked as L and R room (refrigerator compartment?) lights both with 4 wires on it purple, purple/black, yellow and yellow/black which I assume is part #93 (I missed seeing that there were two marked as #93 in the diagram)

Here's the wiring diagram that shows how the Active supply goes through the freezer door switch to the ice maker.

Bit hard to read as you can't flip it.

I've edited my answer above to reflect how it is wired and works

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