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Repair and additional information for the GE Refrigerator GSS25SGS***—a 2008 side-by-side door refrigerator with automatic defrost and anti-sweat heater switch features. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GSS25SGS***.

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Freezer does not cool below 40 degrees

I have a GE GSS25SGRE side-by-side refrigerator (2004 model year). The power was out. When it came back, it must have fried something in the refrigerator. It runs continuously but the freezer won't cool below 40 degrees. There is frost in the back of the freezer (lower third). Could it be the main board? Its capacitors are known to fail.

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Hi @monk58419,

Have you verified that the temp is correct by placing a suitable thermometer inside the freezer compartment?

Just asking because ice only begins to form at 32°F and the temp you say is 40°F, presumably shown from the control panel.

Also is the evaporator fan inside the freezer compartment operating? You may have to listen for it because it will stop when a door is opened and start again when the door is closed. It will be operating as long as the compressor is operating.

Have you visually inspected the mainboard to check if there is any obvious problems on the board e.g. heat stressed or burnt out components?

Don't know about now but in the past GE used to place the mini manual (service data sheet) in their appliances either behind the kickplate (if the appliance had one) or in the back somewhere. Maybe worth a look as they have the diagnostic test procedures etc.

The mini manual part number is 31-51525 but i can't find a free download online. You may have better luck.

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Yes, I did verify that the temp is correct by placing a suitable thermometer inside the freezer compartment. It reads 41 degrees (but that's not in the back of the freezer but towards the front). Everything is melted.

I have not looked at the main board yet.

Could the issue be the thermistor?

door

@monk58419

It could well be but it maybe is the mainboard not "reading" the thermistor correctly.

The thermistor is just a resistor whose resistance is affected by the temperature.

As the temperature increases the resistance decreases and vise versa. This is at a known set rate per °F so the control board measures it against a set known reference value to know when to turn the compressor on and off.

Hard to see how a thermsitor is directly affected by a possible power surge (either when power cut or restored) as it is effectively on the "other side" of the board from the power input so you would think that the board would be affected first.

The board has mains voltage supply connected to it but it operates at lesser DC voltage which is derived from the mains supply so perhaps the temp circuit was affected that way i.e. problem with the power supply circuit on the mainboard.

Is the evap fan working, you never said?

door

Yes, the evap fan is working.

door

@monk58419

It's strange that the compressor is running and yet the temp isn't going down.

With a thermsitor problem you would think that if it were faulty and saying that it is cold enough at 40°F (when it obviously isn't) the compressor would be stopped or vise versa if it is still too warm that OK the compressor is still running but the temp isn't getting any lower.

Does the compressor feel "hot" to the touch? It will be warm so be careful anyway. Hopefully it isn't a compressor problem. maybe also check for frost build up on the pipes near the compressor. If there is it may indicate a blockage in the sealed system.

Does adjusting the freezer temp warmer affect the operation at all?

Just trying to see if the control board responds OK.

door

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I have a similar GE side-by-side. The freezer wasn't cold enough because the damper that lets cold air into the fresh food side was stuck open. The fresh food thermistor was to blame.

I learned a lot about the inner workings from the Technical Service Guide (including how to get into the diagnostics.)

I found this link for you:

https://www.frontloadbearings.com/ge-pro...

It shows the mini manual is inside the control console atop the fresh food compartment.

You're right about the main board. I found this video which shows the most likely parts that go bad. I had a WR55X10942 board lying around that I had replaced years ago. Got it out, noticed 2 bulging capacitors, replaced them, and now have a working spare.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_HChSII...

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