what or where do I wire the wires to ? I have already took the locking Menckenism off and just have wires. I'm not sure which is the ground wire. I have three wires Red White and Blue. pleas help. laundry is piling up and I have 8 kids.
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@desireenbryan we would need to see what you see. Normally you just place a jumper between the wire from COM and the one labeled NC
Post some picture of where it was located, the part you took out and the wiring etc., with your QUESTION Voeg afbeeldingen toe aan een bestaande vraag
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Did this get answered I have exact same question same everything
@april59063 no, not yet. OP never came back :-) Let's see if @jayeff has a solution for you.
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Hi @april59063
By "same everything" what is the exact model number as the OP only quoted the first 6 digits of the model number and the subsequent comment by a different user quoted a full model number? There are 7 variants in the model range i.e. -SK0WS → -SK6WS
If it is a HTW240ASK6WS then looking at the mini manual for the model, leave the wires connected to the lock and just short out the yellow and violet (purple) wires.
The lock coil has a 70 Ohm resistance value (on the red wire) that the control board needs to "see" when the lid is closed and locked. If the lock operating coil is open circuit, shorting out the wires won't work.
Have you verified that the lid lock is the problem?
Try running the diagnostic tests as described in the manual and check if there is a lid switch error as shown by the error code chart in the manual.
If you decide to replace the lid lock assembly, search online for WH08X37937 to find suppliers that suit you best. (examples only)
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Yes same model same everything so I took little wire connected a u between the 1st and 3rd (making white ground) well no fire or spark but still not spinning Ilid lock and harness has been removed already so
htw240ask6ws
You need to have a 70 Ohm resistance that the control board can detect, as just shorting out the two wires won't work if it doesn't detect the lock coil.
The control board applies power on the red wire from the control board (connector J513 pin 1) and when the lock operates it connects this via the coil (70 Ohms) to the other two wires. (J513 pins 2 & 3)
Tricky as they're making sure that the lock is there at least electrically. Shorting out the two wires will work as long as it is a mechanical problem in the lock i.e lock coil is OK but there's a faulty lock switch contact (only one not both), but not a faulty coil or a wiring problem between the board and the lock assembly.
So technically I could put white and blue together and then red and U them and it should produce enough prower that way I did do it straight from harnest off board not off end of now missing lock lid harness I'll share photo
Not really.
But I may be wrong about this. However if I am right and you do just short out the 3 wires then it could be that doing this damages something on the board I don't know
I think that you would have to simulate the 70 Ohm lock coil still being connected.
I think that the control board relies on a certain value of current being detected back on both the white and blue wires so that it knows that the lid switch and the lock switch have both been operated, before it starts the machine,
If you still had the lock assembly connected then if only one of the switches was faulty i.e. lid or lock switch then yes, shorting out the blue and white only would work.
If both switches were faulty or if the coil was faulty then it wouldn't.
It's tricky.
Given that the lock operates at 120V AC they most probably didn't want to make a bypass option available or too easy to simulate. Safety consideration. Too much of a chance of people making a mistake and causing the machine to accidentally become "live" and killing themselves or someone else
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I broke the little piece that goes to the square lock piece. So I want to bypass my laundry is really getting piled up and I worked such long hrs. Help me please. Hotpoint washer model HTW240ASK6WS. Thanks in advance!
door Patty Shelton