Hi I have a benq1070w .. the lamp exploded so I replaced it and opened the projector cleaned it completely and reassembled and now it does not power up. I disassembled it and not sure what to do now?
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Hi @neclamchow,
First thing to check if a device doesn’t turn on is to check the power board and see if there is power on the various power outputs of the power board.
Initially just look for any obviously damaged components e.g. burnt out fuses, heat stressed or bulging components etc. on the power board.
If nothing is obvious, then testing with a DMM (digital multimeter) is required. At first with no power connected to the device and then possibly after that with power connected to the device if nothing is found first.
Here’s the service manual for the projector. This is a great help as it has the circuit diagrams for all the boards.
if you’re not quite sure post some close up images of the power board back here.
Here’s how to do this Voeg afbeeldingen toe aan een bestaande vraag
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Hi @neclamchow ,
Are the images of the only board in the projector?
It seems as though it is the main board and not a power board.
It doesn't appear as though the power cord from the wall outlet connects to this board.
You need to find the board where the power cord connects to and then look on that board for a component with a "F" (F for fuse) designation usually near where the power cable connection is. Then use the DMM in Ohms mode to check that the fuse is OK.
Never have power connected to a device when using a DMM in Ohms mode as it can give false readings and also possibly damage the DMM
@jayeff Yep - same as the Optoma units. Top board is the primary and the ballast/power supply is separate.
I have a rebranded Optoma and it's the same construction wise, but the parts are different - primary board on top, power supply and ballast on the bottom. The DMD chip is a pain to get to when they fail since the shielding, top board and lens assembly needs to be removed just to access it. The DMD is about as much as what I paid for my replacement anyway, so it was more economical to buy another one.
The replacement has 452 hours vs. 1,227 on the one I needed a DMD for.
Thanks.
Thought my eyes were really gone as I couldn't spot the mains power input connection at all.
Cheers.
@jayeff Yeah it's probably the 6 pin connector block. The rebranded Optomas I have do something similar with a locking wire based connector. I took the bad one apart down to the lens to see if I could do it - I can but the chips are over $30 and the replacement was $28 - thanks, but no thanks. Too expensive.
At least the bad DMD unit is good for parts. I MAY try the DMD one day, but only if I get a good one from a dead one with the same chip that has NO DMD issues. The problem is the DMD is usually the #1 reason to retire DLP models.
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I have a multimeter but not sure what settings i shoulduse with meter and also where on the board am i testing?
door david