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Repair and disassembly information for Grado SR60 on-ear headphones.

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Left channel has stopped working. Is it possible to disassemble?

My excellent Grade SR60 headphones has stopped working on the left. Is it possible to take apart the headphone left can to check if the wiring is still connected?

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Hi @spyhill ,

Before you pull it apart, check that it is not the wiring at the cable plug end that is the problem.

The left speaker wire is connected to the "tip" connector of the plug.

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Plug in your earphones to an audio source and gently flex the cable, back and forth directly where it leaves the plug to listen if the left speaker audio comes and goes. Wear the headphones on the left ear only to aid the process of listening for the audio.

If the audio does come and go then either the wire in the cable has fractured at that point or it may be a faulty connection in the plug itself.

If so you'll have to cut the cable and rewire the plug, with a new plug (it's easier this way).

Apologies if you've tried this already.

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Hi @jayeff ,

Many thanks for your suggestion. I tried it but without any change.

I should correct my original posting as it is my right channel rather than the left that has stopped working. It should also be noted that the cable moves freely into the right earphone can and pulls out taut so appears to be connected. At the Y junction of the cable, the right side cable was twisted - straightening it out did not fix the issue but the cable does not feel broken.

Any other suggestions will be gratefully accepted.


Hi @spyhill ,

If you have access to an Ohmmeter (or know someone who has), you can use it to determine where the problem is by checking the continuity of the wiring from the plug to the right speaker.

You'll have to dis-assemble the right speaker cup to gain access to the speaker wiring terminals and then use the meter to prove:

a) whether the speaker itself is OK from the speaker terminals to the speaker.

b) whether the cable is terminated OK on the speaker terminals.

c) which wire is the faulty wire between the speaker and the plug.

If the answer is c) then you'll have to cut the cable about 2" from the plug, strip the sheath off the cable coming out of the plug, and for about 1" from the end of the cable from the speakers. Then strip the insulation off all the wires for about 1/4" to bare the wires for testing

Then you'll have to prove, using the meter whether the problem is in the plug or the cable to the speakers.

If it is in the plug, take a note of the wire colours going into the plug, which colour goes to which connector (use the meter - obviously one wire won't work but the others should) so that you know how to reterminate the new plug that you have to wire .

If it is in the cable from the speakers still make a note of the wire colours into the plug as it will help when you have to replace the cable and wire in the new plug.

If this all sounds too daunting, hopefully you know someone who's into fixing electronics etc who can do it for you.


Hello @jayeff ,

I took apart the right speaker cup using a heat gun (a few youtube DIY demos available). The wiring to the speaker was intact.

I got out my multimember and did a continuity test probing the right speaker ground & live wires, with no change in continuity. Next probed the 3.5mm plug, grounding the black probe on base of the plug, then touching mid part of the plug (right channel) with the red probe and there was no continuity break. When I did the same test this time touching the tip of the plug with the red probe, there was a definite change in continuity.

Since RCA plugs seldom go bad, likely a wire break close to plug or right speaker end, or in the Y joint of the long cable that separates the cables going to the left and right speakers. Difficult to locate..

Plan to snip the cable at both ends, install RCA jacks - 1/8" Stereo Panel-Mount Audio Jack - in each earphone cans soldered to speaker wires, and headphone reassembled using a 12 Gauge 6-Feet RCA Male to 3.5mm-Inch Male Cable.


Hi @spyhill ,

Sounds good but 12 gauge may prove to be not too flexible. 18 - 22 gauge should suffice with more flexibility.

Good luck


@spyhill Check from the plug to the speakers. Use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from the plug to the speaker, not from the base to the right channel. That should not show continuity.


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