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Repair guides, troubleshooting information, and service help for refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (GE).

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Refrigerator lights up then shuts down after a couple of minutes

Hope someone can help. Have this side by side GE Profile Artica PSC23SGRB

model: PSC23SG RB refrigerator. Woke up and found it totally not working. The top lights on the frig side were off and the bottom ones were on in the frig side. All lights were on in the freezer side. the upper control indicator would light up. When pushing the freezer control to 0 but it would just snap back to the room temp. When pushing the frig temp to 34 it would also snap back to room temp. Tried the immediate 15min chill setting but also did not work, Went to the back, took off lower panel to expose the compressoor and some fan that shot into some cyclinder shaped filter of sorts. It was loaded with dust. Cleaned it and went to fire it up the unit. After plugging it back in I opened the door, noticed all lights on and the refrigetator seemed to be working. It worked for about almost 7-10 mins with the freezer working but not the frig part. After 7 to 10 mins it would go back to that shut down mode with the upper lights off and lower frig light on. I would let the unit sit unplugged for a bit and I would repeat this process over and over again with same results.

One of my thoughts was to check to see if the coil was fouled up with dust but can't get at it. At least not from the rear. I'd like some advice on this before I try finding out how to check the coil. If someone thinks its the coil, then how do I get at it? Couldn't find anything on Youtube. 773-909-6255, 773-735-6400 Ed

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I'm having the same problem with my refrigerator.

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I have an issue with my fridge. After watching cases in YouTube, I thought it was the control panel, but it wasn’t. Then, other signs supposed to be the dispenser front panel, I changed the dispenser front panel and now should give me the chance to reprogram the panel, instead, it sounds like is picking up, and lit the temp to 0 and 38, but the lights on the panel goes off and the starting sound goes off, too. after a minutes the lights and the sound come back and goes away again.

What it could be?

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Hello,

I'm experiencing the same problem with my GE Profile. Were you able to find a resolution ?

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I have the same problem with my Whirlpool. We just replaced the main control board. When plugged back in it immediately started with shutting off every couple minutes. So if it is the Damper assembly (door stuck shut) would it shutoff and on? Or if it is the thermistor would it shut off every couple minutes?

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The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over

If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm and the evaporator coils are frosted over, there may be a defrost system problem. Several times a day the defrost heater assembly turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost or ice that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly has burned out, or the defrost thermostat or defrost control have failed the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling. The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system.

Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. These are the coils that get cold. A small fan and motor is mounted near the coils. This fan and motor - called the evaporator fan and motor, draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer and refrigerator. If the fan fails, the freezer or refrigerator will get much warmer than usual.

Damper Control Assembly

If the freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm the air damper control might be stuck closed or broken. The air damper control is either an automatic or manually operated door which opens and closes to let more or less cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If it doesn't open properly it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. If the evaporator fan is running, the damper door is open and no air is coming out. The evaporator may be frosted up caused by a defrost problem.

Thermistor

If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.

Temperature Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.

Defrost Thermostat

If the refrigerator freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won't turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn't turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling to the freezer or refrigerator. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.

Main Control Board

If the refrigerator's freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm the main control board might be defective. This is not common. The cause of this problem is almost always in the defrost components.

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I really appreciate your giving me the suggestions. Since my post, I checed out the compressor with a continuity tester and it checks out fine. I also finally found the coil which was located behind a panel in the freezer compartment. It was clean as a whistle. Free of frost and free of any dust whats-so-ever. The fan, motor and blades are working fine. I don't know where to look for the thermostadt or how to test out the control which I would think would be procy. Control board is very easy to access in the back of the frig. Any other suggestions?

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No that's all I know of.

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my sister had a GE tech replace the control board. It did not solve her problem, but when I got it a number of caps were obviously going bad. You might want to check to make sure none of them have convex tops. The other thing that might cause your problem is blocked lines in the compressor circuit assuming a good compressor. Unfortunately, that is not something you can repair and may not be economical to have repaired.

edit: I managed to confuse you by calling it a “circuit”. I was referring to exactly what you are talking about. HOWEVER, your statement about it working for a while after replacing the compressor, might indicate a leak rather than a blockage. Either are possible. If it is a hole, for it to work that long it would be very small and near impossible to find requiring complete replacement of all the plumbing, and that is probably cost prohibitive.

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Hi @summer2021

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

Do you mean that the compressor motor is trying to start all the time instead of starting and then staying on?

If the display on the control panel also appears to be losing power it sounds like a control board issue as the power to the refrigerator is connected to it first and it controls what happens in the refrigerator.

Have you checked that the refrigerator is properly plugged into the wall outlet?

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Good day Edward, Is this possible: I replaced gas and compressor but the fridge after two months of running it stop and the whole fridge became warm and a technician said that there’s a leakage somewhere on the pipes that transport the gas in a circular mode so now my fridge cannot be opened at the back for him to seal the whole. His advise was that I need to buy another fridge.

Please advise

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Thank you bill, this is my suspicion exactly . But what about the pipes where the gas travels to heat and cool the fridge? Could they be blocked or there’s a hole somewhere causing the gas not to circulate or corrosion…

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the pipe the normally gets blocked it the very small dia one. That usually does not happen until the refer is old and gets moved. Moving breaks off pieces of copper inside the big pipe and it travels to the small pipe and blocks it. That is pretty impossible to fix.

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Hi my is lennox… i got problem with my fridge kic if i plugged it is getting on for 10 minutes and its cooling after 10 minutes its getting on and off for 2minutes while its cooling…after that its stops cooling and the compressor goes off i only hear the sound of thermor switching and off without starting the compressor… any advise

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I am not understanding this completely as it may be translated, but it sounds like a control problem.

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Edward Fogell zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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