This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples TruRed paper and they changed suppliers where it no longer works well to the point the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it) on difficult print mechs. ***Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.***
[quote|format=featured]
***''I wouldn't buy a case of it at first but try a single ream and see if it works well - if it does, then you stock up.''***
[/quote]
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
-
If the rollers are worn, it's probably not cost effective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time the roller wear is the issue, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
+
If the rollers are worn, it's probably not cost effective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't available anymore anyway. By the time the roller wear is a major issue, it's usually nearing 10 years where OEM ink availability becomes a future problem (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and easily reset smart chips eing T048, not the newer chips which hard lock at 25%), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap the fuses if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have parts. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples TruRed paper and they changed suppliers where it no longer works well to the point the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it) on difficult print mechs. Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
+
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples TruRed paper and they changed suppliers where it no longer works well to the point the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it) on difficult print mechs. ***Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.***
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***''I wouldn't buy a case of it at first but try a single ream and see if it works well - if it does, then you stock up.''***
+
+
[/quote]
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
-
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time the roller wear is the issue, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
+
If the rollers are worn, it's probably not cost effective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time the roller wear is the issue, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
+
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap the fuses if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have parts. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples TruRed paper and they changed suppliers where it no longer works well to the point the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it) on difficult print mechs. Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
-
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
+
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time the roller wear is the issue, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
+
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples TruRed paper and they changed suppliers where it no longer works well to the point the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it) on difficult print mechs. Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers and stuff? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
+
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers with trivial issues? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
-
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
+
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons; that said, for bottom feeeders, you can access them with a damp rag and clean them manually. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers and stuff? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers and stuff? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 72.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
+
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers and stuff? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 121.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
+
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***Printers are a tough situation -- the enterprise lasers and stuff? Yeah, you swap fusers if you get one with 15k pages and a 72.XX thermister error, or hoard broken low metered units with perfect fusers so you have them. Inkjets are a problem because of the sales model -- repairs are as much as a new one 8/10 times unless you get lucky.***
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
-
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over. Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
+
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over (the rule is Epson sells the OEM ink for 10-15 years; once it's discontinued the 3rd party supply becomes a future issue as they rely on OEM Epson cores). Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
-
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
+
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) topload model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over. Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.
This is more of a preliminary answer, pending knowledge of the model. The first thing I've done in these cases is to try better paper -- say for example I'm using the Staples private label paper and the mech struggles with it, I've had good luck with the Hammermill paper (Hint: The Epson branded paper is Hammermill, save your money and buy the Hammermill in bulk unless you get a good deal on it). Sometimes the paper you're using is just too cheap.
If that doesn't work and you have a "desktop" (read: CMYK non photo) model, get a flashlight and make sure the rollers are in good condition. If the rollers are good but have dust, you may need to get cleaning sheets on these models as the rollers aren't accessible for much of anything with topload Epsons. If the rollers are cracking or the printer is several years old, the rollers may be worn out.
If the rollers are worn, it's probably cost ineffective to fix as the problem really begins to show after 5+ years old, and on old models like the C84 and older the ink isn't even made anymore -- by the time that issue occurs, it's usually near 10 years and the availability of new ink is bordering on over. Even old reliable models like the R200 (desired for the CMYK+LC+LM ink configuration and being T048, having chips one can ACTUALLY reset without being time bombed), they're nearing the point of being a non recommendation for similar risks.