Geschiedenis van "Why is the power adapter will not power up my laptop"

19 okt. 2022

Deze versie is geschreven door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is best avoided.*

-	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to ~~obliterate~~ last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to only last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

19 okt. 2022

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

-	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is ~~to be~~ avoided ~~if at all possible~~.*
+	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is best avoided.*

	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to obliterate last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

19 okt. 2022

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is to be avoided if at all possible.*

-	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.*
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, ~~and~~ sold the computer and adapter separately.
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to obliterate last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

19 okt. 2022

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. ~~'''~~Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.~~'''~~
+	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. ~~'''~~The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.~~'''~~
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

-	~~'''~~IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.~~'''~~ It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. ~~'''~~If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.~~'''~~ If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, ~~'''~~but one is to be avoided if at all possible.~~'''~~
+	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is to be avoided if at all possible.*

-	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). ~~'''~~These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.~~'''~~
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). ~~'''~~These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.~~'''~~ They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.*
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business ~~Haswell-Skylane~~ machine (~~and~~ an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the ~~commodity spec~~ i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
-	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
+	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

-	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
+	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
-	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
+	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
-	* BUY: Dell curved charger. Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
+	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

-	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
+	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger. Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters.
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger. Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not ~~may~~ more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters.
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger. Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

23 aug. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are ~~bordering on it at this age~~. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s ~~usually~~ a cell ~~issue isolated to~~ 1 or 2 ~~cells~~ that didn’t age evenly. Yes, ~~even one~~ cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can ~~make~~ the ~~laptop appear dead~~.
+	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail ~~one and it is being sold~~ without a box as new OR it’s ~~advertised as~~ a ~~bulk wrapped~~ adapter ~~someone is selling used,~~ DO NOT BUY ~~IT; IT IS FAKE~~.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''~~do not buy~~'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

+	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well!'''
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not may more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters.
+	* BUY: Dell curved charger. Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA-adapters, but tends to cost more.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

20 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-~~2007~~ when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

12 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the [~~https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Dell+Inspiron+17+N7010+Battery+Replacement/~~100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.
+	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.
+	Did you ever change the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Dell+Inspiron+17+N7010+Battery+Replacement/100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA) with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who ~~regular~~ sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

-	Tip: I’ve been able to get my modern Dells (E6220/E6440) to charge with a PA-3E, but I got the adapter with a laptop so I had nothing to lose - you do.
-
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Dell+Inspiron+17+N7010+BIOS+Battery+Replacement/100148\|CMOS battery].
+	Tip: I’ve been able to get my modern Dells (E6220/E6440) to charge with a PA-3E, but I got the adapter with a laptop so I had nothing to lose - you do.
+
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version.
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Dell+Inspiron+17+N7010+BIOS+Battery+Replacement/100148\|CMOS battery].

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA-) are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to ~~find~~ a ~~used one~~, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor~~. 100%~~ of ~~these~~ are ~~old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better~~. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it ~~clears up the issue~~. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.
+	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are bordering on it at this age. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, ~~the next thing to do is to~~ get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and ~~check~~ the ~~voltage of the~~ adapter ~~at the tip - these require 19.5V (20V nominal)~~ to ~~run, so~~ make sure ~~your adapter is~~ still ~~providing that~~. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops. They either sell them individually separate from the laptops - or in a lot like 5/$25, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max individually - including shipping.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

-	~~The~~ other ~~reason~~ to ~~avoid~~ them ~~is the~~ laptops ~~are stupidly picky about~~ charging ~~with a iffy adapter - they~~ even ~~block charging when~~ it ~~can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly~~ from Dell.
+	IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells retail. '''If you are looking at the retail one and it is being sold without a box as new OR it’s advertised as a bulk wrapped adapter someone is selling used, DO NOT BUY IT; IT IS FAKE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to find a used one, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find. These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] are from ~2004-2007 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop. There’s a chance these may not charge the battery since they’re so old - '''do not buy'''. For the Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] with the next generation. '''These are okay, but do NOT pay more then $10-15 for these; they’re a dime a dozen. You can generally grab them for a few bucks from eBay sellers who regular sell No HD/power adapter laptops, but some sell a few as a lot for very little. Not only do knockoffs ruin these machines, but they also often have issues charging since Dell blocks non-Dell adapters if they fail authentication - even if it came from Dell directly!'''

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and check the voltage of the adapter at the tip - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops. They either sell them individually separate from the laptops - or in a lot like 5/$25, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max individually - including shipping.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference.
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.
+	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly. Yes, even one cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can make the laptop appear dead.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work ~~for this~~) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops. They either sell them individually separate from the laptops - or in a lot like 5/$25, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max individually - including shipping.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and check the voltage of the adapter at the tip - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops. They either sell them individually separate from the laptops - or in a lot like 5/$25, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max individually - including shipping.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops individually (or in ~~lots)~~, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max including shipping ~~within the sale price~~.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops. They either sell them individually separate from the laptops - or in a lot like 5/$25, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max individually - including shipping.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops individually (or in lots), which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max including shipping within the sale price.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V ~~unloaded~~) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops individually (or in lots), which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max including shipping within the sale price.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V nominal) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops individually (or in lots), which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max including shipping within the sale price.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops ~~selling them separately~~ or in lots, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10 max including shipping within the sale price.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who regularly sell No HD laptops individually (or in lots), which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10-15 max including shipping within the sale price.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10 max including shipping within the sale price.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING OR LISTED AS A BULK WRAPPED ADAPTER; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10 max including shipping within the sale price.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and ~~common~~.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy to find and not worth more then like $10 max including shipping within the sale price.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The “OEM ~~style”~~ brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and common.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM] brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and common.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://~~www~~.~~ebay~~.com/~~itm~~/~~Genuine-Dell-LA90PS0-00-DF266-90W-19-5V-4-62A-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger/274392631654?hash=item3fe3134966:g:iYMAAOSwJN1e3lIX~~\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The “OEM style” brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and common.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The “OEM style” brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and common.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake. The other styles “work”, but the ones [https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Dell-LA90PS0-00-DF266-90W-19-5V-4-62A-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger/274392631654?hash=item3fe3134966:g:iYMAAOSwJN1e3lIX\|that look like this] are from the Pentium/Core Duo/2 era, and may not charge the modern systems. The “OEM style” brick is fine, but don’t pay too much for them as they’re a dime a dozen from people who sell No HD laptops selling them separately or in lots, which in turn make them easy and common.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the modern ~~slim ones~~. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapters]. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

-	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue.
+	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue. This usually solves the issue because it’s usually a cell issue isolated to 1 or 2 cells that didn’t age evenly.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the modern slim ones. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.

	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the modern slim ones. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.
+
+	The other reason to avoid them is the laptops are stupidly picky about charging with a iffy adapter - they even block charging when it can’t verify the wattage, even on a genuine adapter directly from Dell.

	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Bewerkt door: Nick

Tekst:

	Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue.

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the modern slim ones. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.

-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

10 jun. 2020

Origineel bericht door: Nick

Tekst:

Did you ever change the battery? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor. 100% of these are old enough that the batteries are dead, and the ones that have been properly maintained that still hold something aren’t faring much better. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without it and see if it clears up the issue.

If it doesn’t boot without the battery, the next thing to do is to get a multimeter (even a cheap one from Walmart will work for this) and check the voltage of the adapter - these require 19.5V (20V unloaded) to run, so make sure your adapter is still providing that. The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter. IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter. It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to one of the modern slim ones. DO NOT BUY ONE THAT IS NEW WITH THE WRAP AND NO PACKAGING; those are fake.

If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell machine (and an SSD) over this laptop.

Status:

open

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is best avoided.*

-	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to ~~obliterate~~ last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to only last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

-	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is ~~to be~~ avoided ~~if at all possible~~.*
+	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is best avoided.*

	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to obliterate last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is to be avoided if at all possible.*

-	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.*
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, ~~and~~ sold the computer and adapter separately.
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system. I have seen them last but those even tend to obliterate last so long. I wouldn’t rely on it day to day (or buy one, but if it came with the laptop I’d take it and test it) but if I had a good PA adapter I’d use it in a pinch.*
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, but sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

-	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. ~~'''~~Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.~~'''~~
+	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. *Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.*

-	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. ~~'''~~The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.~~'''~~
+	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [link\|https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. *The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.*

-	~~'''~~IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.~~'''~~ It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. ~~'''~~If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.~~'''~~ If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, ~~'''~~but one is to be avoided if at all possible.~~'''~~
+	*IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.* It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [link\|https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. *If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.* If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, *but one is to be avoided if at all possible.*

-	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). ~~'''~~These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.~~'''~~
-	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). ~~'''~~These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.~~'''~~ They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
+	* AVOID: These [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). *These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.*
+	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [link\|https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). *These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.* They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
-	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business ~~Haswell-Skylane~~ machine (~~and~~ an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the ~~commodity spec~~ i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].
+	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business 8th-10th gen machine (with an SSD) over a new board for this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the “common” i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].

	Did you ever change the [guide\|100147\|battery]? These are from 2010 just based on the 1st generation Core i processor - unless the battery was replaced recently, they’re pretty much all dead outside of the well maintained packs and even those are done after 5-6 years as everyday batteries. BUT before you go out and buy a new battery, try booting without one installed and see if it powers on. This usually solves the issue because it’s often a bad cell in the pack - usually the 1 or 2 that didn’t age evenly with the rest of the battery. '''Yes, one bad cell that didn’t consistently age with the rest of them in a 6 cell pack can kill the whole pack as a safety measure.'''

	If it doesn’t boot without the battery, get a multimeter (even a cheap one from [https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-Digital-Multimeter-TD35069B/213273885\|Walmart] will work - but don’t use it on AC!) and test the power adapter to make sure it’s still good. On these it’s 19.5-20V nominal/19.5V load. '''The inside jacket is positive and the outside jacket is negative, so it uses a center positive adapter.'''

	'''IMPORTANT: IF you find the adapter has issues, please don’t buy a knockoff from eBay as tempting as it is for a 10 year old laptop - at least purchase a used OEM adapter.''' It’s still a gamble, but it’s far less of a gamble as long as you stick to buying the [https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-slim-power-adapter-90-watt/apd/332-1833/pc-accessories\|modern adapter] Dell sells at retail. '''If you are looking at the retail adapter without a box sold as a new adapter (or it’s sold in “bulk packaging”), it’s usually fake or a misleading used adapter; DO NOT BUY THESE.''' If you’re trying to keep costs down and want to save a few bucks, there are 2 other styles that are easy to find, '''but one is to be avoided if at all possible.'''

	* AVOID: These [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/oIEAAOSwzGZe3lIp/s-l1600.jpg\|early adapters] (PA) are from ~2004-2008 when you could still buy a new Core Duo/Core 2/Pentium laptop over 10 years ago. These are more prone to capacitor wear, which will reduce the tip voltage (the computers often do not like it and have problems with the adapters). '''These may not change the battery as well since they are so old! The tip voltage issue is often not an issue with minor voltage loss (0.5V) on lower end platforms but it tends to be a problem as it hits 1-2V or it's used on a higher end system.'''
	* BUY (But spend as little as possible): For the native Core i series machines, they switched to a different style [https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YNIAAOSwAZJe2AUt/s-l1600.jpg\|OEM adapter] (DA). '''These are the better used budget option, but are a dime a dozen. Do not pay more then $15 with shipping at the most. Most eBay sellers will sell you a few for similar money as a lot since they’re so common.''' They typically come from No HD laptops where it was shipped with a bunch of adapters and they bought a lot, and sold the computer and adapter separately.
-	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
+	* BUY: Dell curved charger (FA/HA/Others). Most expensive, but best built adapter. It is less prone to insulation failure then the OEM and PA adapters, but tends to cost more even used.
	If you still have issues booting with a new power adapter and battery, it’s usually a motherboard issue. Honestly, your money is better spent on a retired business Haswell-Skylane machine (and an SSD) over this laptop if the cheap fixes make no difference if you cannot afford a new one, even if it’s the commodity spec i5/8GB/Intel video version. Before scrapping the laptop at this point, try a new [guide\|100148\|CMOS battery].