When troubleshooting charging issues, I would do the following (in order):
# Always try another Lightning cable and charger, preferably Apple original or MFi certified units.
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# The [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning_(connector)|Lightning cable 8-pin connector] should be sitting flush with the housing and completely inserted. If it is not, there could be lint/dust/debris inside the port impeding a proper connection. You can clean it out with a toothpick, fine point tweezers or a dental pick. Just be careful not to damage the pins inside the Lightning Port.
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# Change the battery. The battery is the weakest link in the entire phone and certainly for charger related issues. Use a battery utility, such as coconutBattery (for Mac) or 3uTools (for Windows) to test the battery prior to removal. Anything less than 70% of design capacity will require replacement.
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# If the battery is in good condition, you can use a [https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=USB+Ammeter|USB Ammeter] to determine if the device is really drawing current when it says it's charging. If it isn't drawing current, then may have a logic board issue. There is an IC (commonly referred to as Tristar) responsible for communicating with the charging device and uncertified (dollar store) chargers can damage it.
When troubleshooting charging issues, I would do the following (in order):
# Always try another Lightning cable and charger, preferably Apple original or MFi certified units.
# The [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning_(connector)|Lightning cable 8-pin connector] should be sitting flush with the housing and completely inserted. If it is not, there could be lint/dust/debris inside the port impeding a proper connection. You can clean it out with a toothpick, fine point tweezers or a dental pick. Just be careful not to damage the pins inside the Lightning Port.
# Change the battery. The battery is the weakest link in the entire phone and certainly for charger related issues. Use a battery utility, such as coconutBattery (for Mac) or 3uTools (for Windows) to test the battery prior to removal. Anything less than 70% of design capacity will require replacement.
# If the battery is in good condition, you can use a [https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=USB+Ammeter|USB Ammeter] to determine if the device is really drawing current when it says it's charging. If it isn't drawing current, then may have a logic board issue. There is an IC (commonly referred to as Tristar) responsible for communicating with the charging device and uncertified (dollar store) chargers can damage it.